old4570 did a series of discharge tests of 10440's, check it out.
the AW 10440's are rated 320mAh (which seems like a honest number)
Also learn that the actual nominal capacity is 350mAh and not the (over-)rated 500mAh:
As a general rule of thumb, the max. continuous discharge current is 2C, which is -700mA (= -0.7A); please read it here:
which links to:
Protected Blue Ultrafire 10440's did exist at some point in time:
http://dx.com/ultrafire-protected-10440-3-6v-500mah-batteries-2-pack-36026
...but they seem to be out-of-print and replaced by the Protected Grey Ultrafire 10440's (this OP!).
relevant cpf threads where (Protected) 10440's are discussed are:
W~O~W, now, finally, I'm a true AAA flashlight believer...
Protected 10440 (AAA size) Li-ion cells! Finally!!!
AAA/unprotected 10440 batteries
weather sucks, i am bored so why not start a thread about 10440's on bfl? most people do *not* own 10440's, neither Protected nor Unprotected, and they are indeed hard to get. the only accessible/acceptable brands which release both Protected 10440's and Unprotected 10440's are Trustfire and Ultrafire. even HKE hardly sells any 10440's, and DD doesnt carry Protected 10440's so what gives? Most non-Ch*nese flashlight retailers do *not* carry Protected 10440's in their program and only some do offer Unprotected ones .. but at what price? -- no thanks. Anyway.
The most sold protected 10440 model is the Grey Protected Trustfire 10440. Most ebay offers (and also HKE) cover this exact product and on forums people have bought this product and not any other competitive model.
There's one prominent dealer which has a little bit of choice: Dealextreme offers the aforementioned Grey Protected Trustfire 10440, but also Grey Protected Ultrafire 10440, and Grey Protected Fandyfire (Seriously?? Why not call it Won'tFire or simply FandyBrand or FandyName??!) 10440. One clever UK dealer sells grey TF 14500's but only grey Protected 10440's by UF (instead of TF), so what's deal?, are there noteworthy differences between the grey TF and the grey UF? -- Answer: yes!
It seems that there is one significant constructional difference: the conductive stripe attached at the top ("+" plus pole, nub) is either hidden/covered beneath the white paper ring (see grey UF), or it goes above the white ring (see grey TF).
This little difference in detail effectively leads to two consequences:
- the protruding nub results flatter if the stripe goes above the white ring (see grey TF)
- the nub's round shape becomes less defined and isnt perfectly circular anymore (see grey TF)
- the plus pole becomes extended and its safety distance to the outer circumference decreases (see grey TF)
Why are these points important? Well, they are only important if you make use of a copper sealing washer (or aluminum sealing washer) to extend the body/threads of your 1x AAA torch. In such a case, the inner diameter of the washer should be wide enough so that the plus pole of the cell could/would never touch the inner circumference of the washer when both the washer and the cell are installed in the torch.
First some explanatory pictures. After that we talk figures.
I received my grey UF's from DX where not very many customers reviewed the product. How does it get packaged/shipped? In a 2-pack wrap, and enclosed in a nice free battery case!
After unsealing the battery case and taking out the ware:
So what does it say on the wrap? The wrap contains some interesting information, 4.2V for fully charged and 2.75V when empty. We have yet to find out at which voltage..
..the protection circuit trips. Is it really at 2.75V, that's a bit late isnt it? How do we find out?
EDIT: With the UltraFire charger WF-188 it is easy to get the cells off the charger with 4.200V. Reinserting the cell 1x or 2x and you get the 4.200V. Overcharging isnt possible; so if you reinsert the cells in the charger repeated times after the LED has turned green, the max you might get is 4.215V. After 1.0hrs, cell1's remaining offline voltage is 4.189V and cell2's 4.161V (self-discharge). After 1.0week, the cell's voltage is down to ....V and ....V respectively. (20:42 o'clock, 2012-02-05; starting from 4.200V).
The above pics look like photos but they arent. They are scans made with a PC scanner. I've searched the inet and found some nice photos by a dealer:
Let's note as important piece of information the dimensions of the cells. My own measurements with a digital sliding caliper:
cell1, diameter 10.19mm (10.44mm@stripe), length 47.11mm, weight: 9.068g
cell2, diameter 10.21mm (10.47mm@stripe), length 47.03mm, weight: 9.025g
The DX product page was very inaccurate and incorrect. It stated "4.6cm" but as we've seen the actual and accurate length is ~4.71cm. This number is important as we will see. Popular 1x AAA/10440 torches like the Tank007 E09 can run on Protected 10440's with lengths up to 46.00mm but cant close the electrical circuit with cells longer than that! In such a case we would have to insert a 1x standardized copper sealing washer of 1.0mm thickness to bridge the connection between body tube and driver's PCB.
The grey Ultrafire cell has a very clean, round symmetrical circular nub (unlike the grey Trustfire cell!!) and thus is perfectly suitable to work along an unmodified standardized copper sealing washer. Well, you could probably find a plain washer in your house somewhere, that's fine. Just make sure that the inner diameter is between 8.0-10.0mm and the outer diameter between 11.5-12.0mm. If you choose the inner diameter to be 8 or 9mm, then the cell cannot penetrate the washer, which means that you are limited to the use of 1 washer of ~1.0mm (or less) thickness because of the ~1mm height of the cell's nub.
If you choose the inner diameter to be 10.0-10.5mm, then cell fits through the washer, which in turn means that you could use 2+ washers of (any) thickness and the height of the nub wouldnt play a role anymore: when you pile/stack several washers you end up with a tube, like an extension tube for your flashlight body!
Check out how well hidden the stripe is underneath the white paper ring. This ensures that the nub area is small and not extended but nicely circular with the original diameter of ~5.0mm (4.93mm, to be exact). Furthermore it is possible to identify the nub as a nub. The nub is shortish, around 1mm only, but it protrudes distinctly and clearly cant be called a "flat-button top":
In the following picture we see how the cell (diameter 10mm) is debarred from penetrating the small washer (diameter 8mm). So if the cell wants to make contact with the driver's PCB of the torch's head, its nub has to be slightly longer than the washer's standardized nominal thickness of 1mm. In the case of the grey UF cell, no problem! ( And i am not so sure in the case of the grey TF cell because its nub looks less protruding!!! )
In the above picture the red number (1.75mm) measures the safety distance between the cell's (+)plus pole and its (-)minus pole. With the washer's inner diameter of 8.0mm, we get a safety ring of 1.75mm "thickness" which is by visual inspection of the above picture totally sufficient. In a torch like Tank007 E09 the washer wont have a chance to create a short on the cell .. because of the 1.75mm distance.
If you choose a different cell (presumably the grey TF) *and* a smaller washer's inner diameter *and* dont fix/glue the washer on the driver's PCB, then a rattling washer will most likely create a short. ( A short isnt too bad because you have bought a "Protected" 10440, am i right? haha )
The following example of a standard Alkaline AAA cell showcases how easy it would be to short-circuit the battery with a rattling washer:
HARDER and EASIER refer to the following purchase i made:
Using your plain hands, it's much easier to sand down the 13.5mm outer diameter to the prospected, say, 11.80mm --- copper is soft!! --- than to grind the 8.0mm up to some safer inner diameter, say, 9.0, 9.5 or even 10.0mm.
As demonstrated earlier, with the grey UF cell, you *dont need* to sand/grind a washer. Just take the 8.0x12.0x1.0 washer and no further action required, e.g. in the Tank E09!
If you want to use the grey UF cell in the iTP A3 (Aluminum version preferred because of its anodized threads!), then you would have to add 1 unmodified 8.0x12.0x1.0 washer in the below picture by dropping it onto the driver's PCB:
In other words, with the grey UF cell and the iTP A3 you would end up with 2 (stacked) copper washers but as mentioned in the 10440 for ITP A3 Eos-thread, i do *not* recommend using the grey UF cell in an A3. (The grey TF cell might fit in the above picture, i.e. with 1 washer only and glued to the Titanium bod; it has been reported that it does.)
Now that you have understood (hopefully!) the details of the washer method, it should be easy to realize that the Protected Fandyfire cell or the Protected grey TF cell should *not* be used in conjunction with rattling washers. Check their tops (nubs) closely and you would understand why:
The following picture demonstrates how a single washer (here: home-made. just piece of wire!) is sufficient in the iTP A3 to work with a Protected 10440. Trick: Use a Protected grey TF, not a Protected grey UF! Also note that the wire doesnt form a closed ring. This way the cell is able to "penetrate" the ring, and the advantage being: The minimal height of the nub (Looks like a flat button top!!) doesnt pose any problem, and the (+)positive pole of the cell would touch (=electrical contact) the center of the driver's PCB anyway!
To cut the whole story short:
Either use a Grey Protected UF with a 8.0x12.0x1.0 copper sealing washer or use a Grey Protected TF without it (e.g. in the Tank E09). And in the iTP A3, in either case you will need an (additional) conductive spacer (either in form of an open wire ring or in form of a sanded 10.0x11.8x1.0 copper sealing washer).
Last question: In the E09, what is better, the UF with a washer or the TF without a washer?
My answer: The UF with a washer.
reason1: the UF cell has a great built quality. compare the nub area.
reason2: the washer provides a relaxed fit. i would assume that the TF without a washer is a very tight fit in the E09 (and it also depends on the manufacturing tolerances of the E09's body).
reason3: no further reason. that's it. isnt that enough reasons? ha :Sp
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Unprotected Blue Ultrafire 10440's. Looks like 10440's are not very popular these days. It's true, only few torches can handle them flawlessly. Either they are too long (47mm wtf) or their voltage would fry the driver (4.2V wtf). Anyway, for documentation purposes and our records lemme continue to blah haha. Today i received the Blue Unprotected Ultrafire 10440's from DX. Many people on DX bought this product, and it was one of the first 10440's on the market. On DX you can find several reviews and packaging photos. My DX order came with a FREE battery case, and the 2-pack was not shrink-wrapped:
While it is known that you could feed Protected 10440's in the iTP A3 EOS with help of one or two copper sealing washers (and in this case you better use the Aluminum version of the iTP A3!!), the short threads and the o-ring placement suggest that it is not the securest (or safest) way to run 10440's in the A3. Water could pass the o-ring and enter the torch, or you could lose the head entirely because of the wobbliness in the short threads.
Before i continue to blah, let's have a look at the unprotected cell:
I am not sure why it says "voltage of cut-off discharge". The cell is *not* protected so in theory there is no cut-off voltage during discharge. When the cell is depleted and no more capacity is left, then the voltage will be down to some low level. Maybe that's the 2.75V they are talking about. When your cell has indeed reached such a low voltage (of 2.75V), i am not so sure if recharging could turn out hazardous. A first critical mark is 3.6V. On forums many people advise not to discharge beyond the 3.6V mark. Well, once i've got my multimeter i will check at which exact voltage the Grey Protected Ultrafire 10440's cuts off the voltage (tripped protection).
self-discharge test. With the UltraFire charger WF-188 it is difficult to get the cells off the charger with 4.200V. Reinserting the cell 11x or 12x and you get the 4.200V. Overcharging isnt possible; so if you reinsert the cells in the charger repeated times after the LED has turned green, the max you might get is 4.225V. After 1.0hrs, cell1's remaining offline voltage is 4.167V and cell2's 4.161V (self-discharge); after 1.0day, 4.134V and 4.131V; after 1.0week, the cell's voltage is down to 4.092V and 4.112V respectively. (below self-discharge test started on sunday evening, 20:42 o'clock, 2012-02-05; both cells starting from exact 4.200V).
| elapsed time | remaining offline voltage (unmarked cell) | remaining offline voltage (marked cell) |
| 0 | 4.200V | 4.200V |
| 1.0hour | 4.167V | 4.161V |
| 1.0day | 4.134V | 4.131V |
| 1.0week | 4.092V | 4.112V |
| 2.0weeks | 4.076V | 4.104V |
| 3.0weeks | 4.066V | 4.099V |
| 4.0weeks | 4.048V | 4.096V |
| 5.0weeks | 4.013V | 4.093V |
| 6.0weeks | 3.973V | 4.091V |
| 7.0weeks | 3.931V | 4.089V |
| 8.0weeks | 3.912V | 4.087V |
| 12.0weeks | n/a** | 4.084V |
| 19.0weeks | n/a | 4.077V |
| 25.0weeks | n/a | 4.073V |
| 35.0weeks | n/a | 4.066V |
**i am using the unmarked cell in my LD01, that's why it is from now on "not available" anymore for this observation
+++++++test interrupted at this point, 8.0 months (=35.0 weeks) is long enough a test period me thinks!+++++++
As you can see from the above table, self-discharge rate for the blue Ultrafire 10440 (unmarked cell) is rather fast. But no worries, this is common for all 10440 cells. EDIT: well, not really. as you can see the marked cell self-discharges very slowly!!
Let's note as important piece of information the dimensions and weight of the cells. My own measurements with a digital sliding caliper:
cell1, diameter 10.20mm, length 43.94mm, weight 8.395g
cell2, diameter 10.19mm, length 43.93mm, weight 8.644g
If we round these numbers, then the average dimensions of the product are: 10.2 x 43.9
( for comparison purposes, the average dimensions of Eneloop AAA: 10.2 x 44.2 )
Finally let's have a group picture with the entire Dino family, cheeeeese!! :D
( click to enlarge! ;) )
Sorry, couldnt resist. DD brings so much happiness to our doors. And the many dinos .. all full of chlorophyll. So yummy! :love:
Ok, gotta look after the BBQ.. :beer:
Further observations/notes:
I've been using the unmarked cell in my LD01 R4 for months now, without problems with the cell and without problems with the flashlight. It is very easy to tell when time has come to recharge the (unprotected) blue Ultrafire: when you turn on the LD01 and begin to wonder 'hmm the light isnt too bright anymore is it?' then the remaining offline voltage has just passed the 3.600V (and voltage under load may be 2.5-3.0V), and when the light doesnt come on on Hi- and Med-modes any longer then the resting voltage has passed the critical 2.75V threshold and the cell voltage under load may well be at 2.0V or even less. At this point your WF-188 charger will refuse to recharge the cell, and what you need to do is letting the cell's voltage recover to its resting voltage. For example, when i quickly took out the cell and measured 1.7V "under load" and let it rest for 12 hours over night, the cell recovered to 2.880V remaining offline voltage. With this voltage the WF-188 didnt have any objections and accepted the cell for a 1st charge process. The red LED turned green after 51min, and cell voltage was only 4.157V. After repeated re- and re-inserting the cell alternately in the 2 trays of the WF-188, i was able to gain up to 4.209V+ after a total of 66min, which makes for an additional 15mins charging time to reach my desired terminating end voltage. But, of course, due to self-discharge this would be down to 4.088V again after only 1.0 hour. Compared with the tabulated data, the 4.088V should not be the remaining voltage until after more than 1.0weeks .. This discrepancy tells us that my unmarked cell has aged quite a bit during the past few months thru its frequent use in the LD01 and ITP A3. In other words, the older (=frequent charges and discharges) your cell is the less charge will it hold and the self-discharge process will proceed at a much higher rate. No problem!, you bought 10440's in order to use them, didnt you?, and not in order to store them, right? There we go 
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capacity of my 4pcs 10440's. capacity measurements with Imax B6 down to the standard "3.00V" Imax B6 cut-off voltage:
UltraFire Gray Protected *red marked cell* 254mAh@-0.1A (repeated tests: 261mAh, 260mAh), or: typical if not charged fully to 4.200V: 245mAh)
UltraFire Gray Protected *unmarked cell* 225mAh@-0.1A, rest offline voltage 3.3V (repeated test: 229mAh)
UltraFire Blue Unprotected *red marked cell* 334mAh@-0.1A , rest offline voltage X.XV (repeated test: 338mAh)
UltraFire Blue Unprotected *unmarked cell* 278mAh@-0.1A , rest offline voltage 3.3V (repeated test: 282mAh)
In summary: 10440's are a wonderful source of joy and inspiration! ( ??, haha )
