Cheap 26650 flashlight defective

No one can help?

Don’t bother with that driver… Swap with the one you like. Since this is around 20mm driver you could use it as a host and piggy back 17mm fet driver for example.

He needs an e-switch driver for this light.
This could be good:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Flashlight-driver-Flashlight-circuit-board-LD34-driver/330416_1622704141.html
(edit) Hmm… that driver costs more than the light itself… :partying_face:
That’s really cheap though. :open_mouth:

Thanks!
On led is written : XPG - U2
Will work fine with that driver?
Or is better to buy also a good led and yes will cost quite enough but I will turn the cheapo into a real beast?

This LED isn’t a XP-G2, it’s not even a Cree LED.
It looks like a LG or generic 3535 LED.


That driver is made for 10W LEDs - the LED here is 3W at max.
3Amps and this thing will be dead in a very short time.


https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_536609.html?wid=21 + the code “harvest090” = 12.99$
Or this Convoy for under 10$: https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_44144.html?lkid=10940187

Both are waaaaayyyyy better that this generic AliExpress-Flashlight :wink:
I would get the Zanflare.
Newer LED, in built charger and nice tint.

I have Convoy S2 and C8 on the road in 2-3 days will arrive,Zanflare cost too much for a budget member, I don’t want to move on candle forum :slight_smile: but I don’t know why I fell the need to repair that cheapo, I hear my brothers in lights screaming : mod ,mod,mod,mod !!!

I have two identical flashlights; but be careful about the changes: the LED does not have a dissipation base, it is only held by a ring, and the LED rests on the edges of the ring; Pil, in practice, does not exist

Not to sound like a downer, but honestly, I wouldn’t even bother trying to fix it. Into the trash it goes…

But it is a Superlight! :slight_smile:

Just direct drive it and be happy with high mode only. It won’t cost you nothing but don’t use it more than a minute or two continuously or you’ll cook the emitter.

That’s what scares me… :o

LOL :smiley:

I would like to see a tear down of it.
Maybe it’s moddable.

This:

Best deal ever for the F1.

Did you see the price?
It’s a steal.

I have a weak spot for cheapo lights too.
And for that price this seems interesting, with its 26650 size and an e-switch.
But that’s where the problems begin: The driver obviously sucks… And now yours is broken.
The LED is a fake Cree of course, so that has to go too.
But is it worth the work as a host?
How is the anodizing? (but then again, you could always de-anodize it in a lye solution)
How are the threads?
Does it have a tail switch too? (pics on AE suggest there is a tail switch)

Could you take some pictures of the parts and post them here?

Finally somebody understand: is a SuperLight and I cannot put to trash a superlight.
Don’t have cooper pill or authentic cree but found thermal paste behinde led.

Now seriously works with 26650 and I have couple and have very nice beam and strong enough for a cheapo.
What I have in my mind ?
Because allready ordered S2 ,C8 and now F1 (12.99-thanks) I want to use spare parts that I have , to adapt driver , drill tail and put there ordinary switch and back to life that SuperLight.

Ah, thanks for the tear down picture. :+1:
I can’t really see it too well, but when you say the LED board has thermal grease on the back, it means the pill has a shelf, it is not hollow.
A plastic reflector, but those can be good too.
Enough threads on the battery tube too.
All the O-rings are there.
How about the lens? Is it glass or plastic?

With a normal driver you could use the side switch for “turbo blast” :smiley:
You could switch a FET with that, or an extra bunch of 7135. (for example, 6x 7135 driver and 6 extra 7135 for ‘turbo’)
Could be good with a SST-40 LED.

ifratos flashlight works only in SOS. SOS mode will enter only by holding down the side switch for a long time; so for me, the driver is good but the side switch is locked to “on”

Good idea , I will try to change the e-switch before any modding.There is some way to by-pass to be sure that is defective?

Yes; insert the battery and then make short contact with the negative pole; it should enter other modes (low, strobe) for about two seconds, after about two seconds, the switch in ON will have the upper hand.

I removed the switch and here is the result

Obvious the driver is damaged so I start to mod….
The spare parts:

The plate for driver with driver( artistic shape :slight_smile: ) :

The driver mounted :

First test ,working and comparising with ultrafire C8 on high:

…… Tomorow the swicht

I just noticed the same thing on one of my brothers 26650 flashlights. I was going to drop a BLF A6 and a XP-L HI V3 on 20mm Noctigon star until I noticed this oversight. Now I guess I need to add some metal heat sinking to the back of the star if I plan to use this BLF A6 driver? Right? My Google searching for a heat dissipation base, or for maybe an adapter to adapt a 16mm star to this 20mm hole insert (just for the extra metal behind the star) has not been so great. I can find sinks all day long but they are all bigger in size and I want something around maybe 16mm (the hollow hole looks to be about 17mm). So, maybe I need to ask someone to machine me something to fit the hole? Is there anyone here at BLF that can do that service? The hollow area is deep maybe 23-25mm or about (I need to keep room for the driver though). If I could machine an exact piece of metal, maybe say a round 17mm x 20mm and include two drilled lead holes I could reasonably add plenty of heat dissipation I would think. And if it just barely fits then I could solder it in for even more dissipation.

This cheap host looked decent enough for modding before I opened it. I have modded flashlights before but I never seen one that is hollow behind the LED. Image below. What to do now?

https://i.imgur.com/I117CRTl.jpg

P.S. sorry to hijack the thread, but I posted here because my title was going to be near identical, lol. Cheap 26650 flashlight needs a serious mod, BUT. ;)