I put 3 219b sw40 9080 in a x6 triple, made a post about it here.
In short these are beautiful emitters perfect for outdoors use, it takes a few seconds for my eyes to adjust to the warmth but after that things look crisp, vivid and accurate.
Because they’re a real PITA to solder on a board, i haven’t tested the tint shift of these little buddies.
I bought 4 pcs and put one in a CR123A light with a 40° TIR, which is in France at the moment (because i gave it to my mother and she’s there now).
I don’t know if you plan on using optics or not, but a TIR would eliminate the tint shift.
But i have one of those copper DTP quad 3535 boards like this:
(i bought one with cyan 490nm LEDs)
The 3 Volt version can take 16x E21 
making it a 6 Volts set up.
That would be 32 Watts when you run each at 2 Watts or 48 Watts at 3 Watts each.
But because they’re DTP you have 3 Volts on the board, so you’ll have to electrically insulate it.
Maybe better to use an non-DTP XP board and put 4 of them on it.
Or you could get a Djozz board and put a row of them on it.
That looks interesting. I am not planning to run them that hard, would use a larger number to gain lumens. I think I could find a way to isolate them, or to isolate the heat sink and power thru the heat sink and the star. I would not use optics, it would be a flood light for a light box.
OK, it’s time to spill the bean I guess. Yes, it’s undergoing the prototyping now. Only single and quad for now, the cost is killing me. I’m on a fast(er) lane now.
Thanks for the kind words John 
. Yes I sent the tint-shot already to my Nichia representative for his marketing purposes. I have an an interesting stuff for you later.
I planned 16 x E21A but cancelled it. Only single and quad boards for E21A. Will explain it my “New VirEnce Board” thread.
FYI, for low power up to 4A (4p E21A), Kerui’s DTP 20mm XP board still suffice. That’s what I use in my tint shot
- Clemence
Thank you TBone for pointing that out, didn’t pay attention to it before.
Hey Clemence,
Those R9080 LEDs are horrible.
They make the R9050 LEDs all look like Cree.
I remember someone here in BLF said that 219B sw45k makes everything looks ugly, even the the sun! :laughing:
I’ll try to stock 6570e R9080 next time and see how it compared to mid day sun. Never tried anything as cool with such a high R9 number.
Zebralight is one of the best headlamp as is, but very hard to modify (potted driver, press fitted bezel and button). I don’t know about Acebeam, but by the looks it should be easier to mod.
No MOQ, just visit the store. There’s a link in my signature
- Clemence
both are 4000k, if thats what you are asking
tint wise, look at this page, it has pictures of the Tint Bins
https://www.virence.com/blank-rwrlr/nichia-nvsl219ct-nvsw219ct
the image on that page that shows the two LED Tint Bins you are asking about is also posted here (I used search thread “4070e”)
Pick a 4070e in clemence’s shop and see the diagram for it. The 403 bin is a small circle around the blackbody curve at 4000 K. 4070e is the lower right 60° slice of a much larger circle there. So if you do not like green (or yellow/orange) in the tint the 4070e bin keeps you on the red (not blue) side of the blackbody curve.
The Cree equivalent may be 5D vs 5B.
Thanks for the photos Clemence… I did a little cut and paste so top of each photo pair is the control image:
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Wow, thanks Jon & T-bone. I just woke up and about to reply Storm’s question but you guys already did it. :+1:
- Clemence
Check this:
The HC30 is a quite powerful light.
I didn’t measure, but it looks like it pushes 3 Amperes on the highest mode (“turbo”).
That’s a bit much for a 219B.
I recently put a 219C 4000K in my HC 30 plus TIR optics, and it gets rather hot on turbo.
No hidden 219C sm573 R9050 left.
For better control during reflow, put a thermocouple and monitor the temp no more than 260C. Some cheap MCPCB start to delaminate as low as 240C. Most good known LED will survive for few seconds up to 300C. If you’re using leaded solder paste, 240C is already hot enough. Most LED reflow failures are due to the thermal pad not soldered properly. When the solder melted, try to move the LED (using tweezer) back and forth to make sure all the pads properly wet by the molten solder. If you can spot dry areas, a flux drop should fix the problem. This is common if you reflow LED that has been left in humid storage for a long time. The contact pads become tarnished or patina.
Hope this helps,
Clemence
Don’t know anything about those. I use liquid PCB flux. Similar flux used to thin solder paste
Good for cables and large terminals. Removes oil or oxides, and improves wettability.
NOTE: BS-10/15 is a weakly acidic paste. Cannot be used on PCBs.
“rosin soldering flux” is natural and good.
Whoa, kewl!
Where is that? Dagobah?