OK, it’s time to spill the bean I guess. Yes, it’s undergoing the prototyping now. Only single and quad for now, the cost is killing me. I’m on a fast(er) lane now.
Thanks for the kind words John . Yes I sent the tint-shot already to my Nichia representative for his marketing purposes. I have an an interesting stuff for you later.
I planned 16 x E21A but cancelled it. Only single and quad boards for E21A. Will explain it my “New VirEnce Board” thread.
FYI, for low power up to 4A (4p E21A), Kerui’s DTP 20mm XP board still suffice. That’s what I use in my tint shot
I remember someone here in BLF said that 219B sw45k makes everything looks ugly, even the the sun! :laughing:
I’ll try to stock 6570e R9080 next time and see how it compared to mid day sun. Never tried anything as cool with such a high R9 number.
Zebralight is one of the best headlamp as is, but very hard to modify (potted driver, press fitted bezel and button). I don’t know about Acebeam, but by the looks it should be easier to mod.
No MOQ, just visit the store. There’s a link in my signature
Pick a 4070e in clemence’s shop and see the diagram for it. The 403 bin is a small circle around the blackbody curve at 4000 K. 4070e is the lower right 60° slice of a much larger circle there. So if you do not like green (or yellow/orange) in the tint the 4070e bin keeps you on the red (not blue) side of the blackbody curve.
The HC30 is a quite powerful light.
I didn’t measure, but it looks like it pushes 3 Amperes on the highest mode (“turbo”).
That’s a bit much for a 219B.
I recently put a 219C 4000K in my HC 30 plus TIR optics, and it gets rather hot on turbo.
No hidden 219C sm573 R9050 left.
For better control during reflow, put a thermocouple and monitor the temp no more than 260C. Some cheap MCPCB start to delaminate as low as 240C. Most good known LED will survive for few seconds up to 300C. If you’re using leaded solder paste, 240C is already hot enough. Most LED reflow failures are due to the thermal pad not soldered properly. When the solder melted, try to move the LED (using tweezer) back and forth to make sure all the pads properly wet by the molten solder. If you can spot dry areas, a flux drop should fix the problem. This is common if you reflow LED that has been left in humid storage for a long time. The contact pads become tarnished or patina.
Outstanding!
These warm LEDs lend themselves well to full darkness low lumen applications.
iirc you are using Fenix E05 AAA hosts (guessing the lowest mode w 2700k is about 4 lumens)
fwiw the oLight i3s AAA is also a great host. It has a clip that fits on a hat, and a sublumen mode of ~0.02 lumen when modded to 3000k. Very useful, for dark of night bathroom runs.