Thanks for this! I'll be trying a 3 board sandwich for a Beamtech bt4000 once the boards come in. I'm sure the pictures will be a handy reference when it's time to wire them up.
You only use 1 Li-ion cell. You could use 2, but it will increase the voltage, not the amperage, so it does not help (unless you were to wire up 2 cells in parallel).
Parallel - more amps
Series - more voltage.
As far as how many amps? How many boards are you going to use? If you are using this board, then 2.8 Amps per each board. 1 board - 2.8 amps, 2 boards - 5.6 amps, 3 boards 8.4 amps.
In one of techjunkie's mods, he was using 3 AA NiMH cells and was getting 8.4 amps (i believe), I wouldn't want to do to that to poor old AA NiMHs. Very short run times and a lot of stress on the cells.
Li-ion? I do not know the limits of Li-ion, you have to ask for others to help with that. I do not think one 18650 would take 8.4 amps. That's why a lot of mods are done with NiMH, since they can take more abuse without going bad. I think a 26650 or 32650 would do well with this type of mod, but I'm not a Li-ion guy. I'm sure others will chime in with better answers.
Disclaimer - I am an amature modder. I am not an electronics guy, so take my answers with a grain of salt and if you have doubts, ask other menbers for confirmation. This board setup is new to me also, but I see how it works and I will be doing mods this way. For me, this is a way to do 3 XM-L U2 with 3 NimMH batteries. I can see doing one with 3 "C" or 3 "D" and with "D" LSD NiMH cells, I would have 10,000mah, so the amperage problem is solved.
Li-ion is like the White Buffalo to me. Something you hear about, but don't necessarily believe, so Li-ion questions should also be asked, to some of the wiser Li-ion using members here.
An IMR 18650 would handle 8.4A easily but for normal li-ion it's best not to exceed 2C. That's 2 times the rated capacity of the cell. For example 4.8A from a 2400mAh cell or 6.2A from a 3100mAh. If you use 2 cells in parallel you can double that. For example 12.4A from two 3100mAh cells.
HTH,
Tony
So u r saying I have to do 3 drivers to run 3 LEDs which will be 8.4 amps ,I’m only running one 26650 will that 8.4amps hurt my battery?
Also 14 wag wire is ok?
And I only ordered 2 3040ma because this all I thought I needed but I have 1 2280 the same driver jus the step below can I use it for my third with same effect or will it mess things up, I sure would hate to have to wait for another one 
Thanks so much u have helped me a whole lot understanding 
I will pm u soon asu mentioned 
Hey Tony check your pm I sent u a message a few days ago ,thanks
Yes, 3 LEDs = 3 driver boards.
Hopefully others will tell you about the 26650.
Each emitter uses approx 3amps. I would think the 14awg is plenty and then some.
Always order a couple spare, what if you mess one up? The boards are fairly cheap and having exrta won't hurt. I would think all the boards should be the same output, but different ones could be used. I don't know if the difference in brightness would be visible or not.
I will wire the 2280 last so if there is a difference I can replace easily and back before I got sick a couple years I ordered some dig stuff but can’t find it at the moment strength thanks a lot ,will let u know and do pics of my ugly soldering lol
This setup is how I wire all of my Mag mods like the Neutralizer.
I use all 2.8A boards and remove every component on the slaves except the 7135's. Everything works great, but on a single IMR a triple will only do ~5A. The voltage just isn't quite high enough. If I use four NIMH's in a 4C body, it all comes alive and I'll get a full ~10A. (I add two 7135's to each board to get 3.5A to each LED.)
Pay attention to Techjunkie's advice on treating all contact points with Deoxit. I use a Q-tip to dab it on contact points, and the amperage jumped up.
To be honest, the difference between 5 and 10A isn't that much. The 1C lights I've done, using a single 26650, are still bloody bright and light up the world around here.
If you're gonna do a neutral configuration, use the 4500K neutral XML's from LED Supply. They have the best tint of any I got from a U.S. supplier.
Rich
Ok here is what Old Lumens and i have come up with for using the kd drivers for the triple xml upgrade , u have to remove the following 3 pieces on two of the 3 boards ,, as to the older one techno shows they are very similar but on different sides and there is a 3rd bigger one marked s8 not needed as well , so here is what i did and if u have any questions please ask, im not sure yet it works so u may want to wait till i get it all together and see what happens i just got one done and also wanted to post it up so Old Lumen can critique as well :)
here is where i used the needle noses to apply light pressure on one side while desoldering quickly the legs and pulling gently at same time till it popped up like u see, and then did the other side the same way
removed with a small needle nose plier
this is all 4 removed, i got a little burnt edge on the bigger on on the outer edge of the driver, hope it will not effect anything , what do u think Old Lumens?
these are 3 of the 4 pieces removed , i dropped one of the tiny guys on the floor and lost it, lol
thats all i got so far ;)
Cool pics, how to connect the master board with the 8 pin controller to the slave boards with no controller though? outside ring to outside ring for the negative and somewhere else for the positive?
Thanks!
I'm at work, so I can't see photos here. Maybe when I get home, but that's in the wee hours. Hopefully someone else will look in and say it's ok.
I think that at least ont of the 7135 chips has shifted during the desoldering. The one closest to the alligator clip has moved and the one farthest from the clip next to where the components are gone has also moved, (but looks ok). The one closest to the aligator clip does look like it might have moved too much to work correctly. I just can’t see for sure…
Can't see the other side to see if any of the four chips there have moved.
You got more moxy than me, I would never try this trick myself for this very reason. Every time I touch one of these tiny boards, something shifts that shouldn't and it dosen't work afterwards.
Hopefully someone else will come in and say their thoughts here.
As far as the removal, looks like you got the right ones off the board.
I can say for sure they never were touched and to my eye look the same , I’m more worried the left over solder and did I remove the correct ones?
I just doubly checked and those ones u referred to may have shifted look just like the untouched driver that I haven’t done yet , so maybe it will be ok , I’m in here now so gotta follow through ,lol
I could be wrong you know…
The rest of it looks fine to me.
Hm, you don't need to desolder anything to make that a slave board - it suffices to cut off just one pin (pin 3) of the µC. (That's the one above the "D" or "AD" in "L3AD4S")
Pictures r worth a thousand words , the lingo for most would not Be understood ? I was told u have to remove all4 pieces on the new kd drivers ,how do u cut them? Too small ,it was not too hard to heat up and pull at same time to remove?which ones are u saying to cut ?
Take that driver (or look at a photo),
locate the letters "L3AD4S" written on it,
it's the pin directly above the letters "AD".
(That's the third one counted from the little dent on the chip.)
Cut it with some fine cutting pliers - or something else.
(Damaging the neighbour pins won't be a problem.)