[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

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1024

ThankYou! Super helpful and appreciated.
Ive been trying, and failing, to figure out how to do that

well… its a drop of just under 15%, or in the case of a 200 lumen light, it would become a 170 lumen light…

if the question is, can you notice a drop of 30 lumens… not very easily

its just another way to “improve” tint that is too yellow
but there is no free lunch… nichia got more lumens by tolerating more yellow lumens… if they had stuck to red lumens, we would still have Nichia 219b, and they give up more brightness…

basically, putting a 15% lumen reducer on a yellow nichia, makes it act like a pink nichia, if that makes any sense
as to whether you would notice, that depends on how you feel about pink lumens vs yellow lumens :slight_smile:

I happen to love pink and hate yellow, but Im neither you, nor normal… LOL

its cheap enough to try, and won’t harm anything… contact lee filters for a sample pack…

oh, and according to maukka, the filter does raise CRI, slightly… see this post that shows his measurements

1025

I’m experimenting with a “corona killer”.
Basically a collar around the emitter that i painted flat white with ‘white out’ (a.k.a. ‘tipp ex’)
You can use a high LED gasket or a section of a TIR holder.
What it does is mix the more yellow light coming from the sides of the LED with the spill, because it no longer hits the reflector, but is scattered by the flat white collar.
I use ‘white out’ (‘tipp ex’) because it’s the whitest and best covering (least translucent) flat white paint that i know of.
It takes away some yellow from the beam and gets rid of most of the corona.
The spill gets a little warmer (more yellow).
Basically it reduces the tint shifts significantly.
My Cree XM-L2 4D in a C8 sized light (actually a Luma power MRV) with OP reflector and a mild diffuser (glued onto the glas lens with a very thin layer of ‘Kafuter’ UV curing glue) looks a lot better now, it looks pretty nice actually.
My UltraFire WF-502B (OP reflector) with Nichia 219C 3000K with basically the same adaptations improved similarly.
Both have slightly less throw now, and a bit more spill in stead, but not dramatically.

1026

Can you check the output difference?

1027

No i can’t…
I have no lux meter…

1028

I had a good result with more of less same approach. Will do it again and post the result tonight.

1029

Been having fun with these nichias Clemence! Built an M1 quad today using 2S2P emitters. All Nichias I got from you.

It has one of the prized 219B SW45K R9080 in series with a 219C SM305 R9050, and a 219B SW40 R9080 in series with a 219C SM4070e R9050.

The resulting beam is around 3800k-ish I would guess, with a lovely rosy tint and very little to no yellow. Probably the best looking tint I have ever seen, and my new favorite light. The beamshot really doesn’t do it justice at all.

1030

I did a similar experiment mostly by accident. I 3D printed my own spacer/centering ring for an XHP70.2 and messed the dimensions up a bit. As a result the white plastic ring came up the sides of the emitter quite a bit. I noticed though that afterwards much of the tint shift expected with the new Cree emitters was gone, and decided that my mistake wasn’t a bug, it’s a feature.

1031

Whoaa, Nichia cocktails! Interesting….
If you can select any of them individually it would be a nice moodlight!

1032

Tint blending and mixing Vf has been a fun project for me. It started just to show that using boost drivers for triples we can mix whatever emitters we want regardless of Vf because they are in series. It ran a 219B SW40, 319A SM355, and XP-G3 30G 80+, and I was amazed by the beam.

After that first light I got hooked on the idea that by mixing different tints we can basically tailor the net light output to almost anything the user desires in multi-emitter setups.

I think I’ve proven the concept to myself at least, so it is likely there will be more lights like this from me in the future. I really don’t see any downsides. It certainly makes it much more interesting deciding what to build. I want to try one with tints further apart in the future, maybe a 6500k 319A with a 2700k 219C and a 4500k 219B in a triple.

1033

Your driver will be a good candidate for the next E21A quad boards. It’s a true DIY quad and multi CCT board with much better beam control than currently popular quad optics. It’s very similar to XML colour but the user can freely decide which to put inside.

3V, 6V, 9V, and 12V configurable

Each LED are individually addressable for greater freedom.

- Clemence

1034

Reading through this recently, my dream light would now have a 4 FET driver hooked up to 4 different tints from 2700K (or lower if possible) to 5000K or so for smooth ramping of both color temperature and intensity. I doubt I’ll ever have time to make it happen though :frowning:

1035

I am impressed. Might have to pick up some E21As once the boards go on sale. Sort of like a DIY 144A. I do wish I could address the emitters individually with the driver I am using now, would be cool to have 4500k to 3000k on command.

I might be missing something, but outside of only populating 3 spots, how would your board be 9V? 3, 6, and 12 are what I would expect for 4 emitters.

1036

Here's the redo test:

I roughen the inside of the vertical LED cavity only (left the top untouched) using cotton swab and 320grit silicon carbide mixed with soapy water. Then polished the entire internal cavity using clear plastic polish (car headlight polish) to get the smooth diffused surface. The result were excellent but unfortunately I dropped this pretty optics and it cracked internally.

The center collimator already implemented sandblasted finish by Gaggione.

For the brief test I used Sctch's magic tape (cleaned the adhesive first with IPA). FYI, this is the one of the most unforgiving 35mm TIR optics dedicated for maximum candela. Even the good old XPG cast die image with this one.

The magic tape turned the light yellowish. Even if it's applied in front of the optics/reflector. But this should give you the idea.

The best result still achieved with the super expensive Luminit's 5° LSD

- Clemence

1037

9V for 2S2P config. This might not appeal most flashaholics. But in automotive world or wall washing lighting you can get almost perfect projected beam profile from an oval optics using asymmetrically lit LED array. Projected at an angle simple oval optics would make the beam profile overly bright for close range and insufficient lux at farther range. With complex asymmetric TIR/multi faceted reflector any kind of beam shapes are possible but at the expense of additional R&D cost. Simple off the shelf oval optics paired with asymmetric LED array produces nearly perfect beam pattern instantly without having to spend more R&D money.

- Clemence

1038

I would like that, IF I could set Low to use only the 2700k, Medium to use only the 4500k, and high to use only the 6500k…

I suppose with the right UI you could add other options like pairing the 2700 and 4500… pairing the 4500 and 6500, and of course turbo would fire all 3 at once…

but to me, mixing leds that turn on simultaneously is just a compromise, that I won’t make. When I want 2700k light, I absolutely do not want 6500k light, and vice versa…

respect for your creativity, forgive me for failing to understand why it is desirable to mix color temperatures… Im open to learning

Brilliant!!!

1039

When they are all turned on at once you don’t see it as 2700k and 6500k light, you see it as a blend which is somewhere in the 4000k-5000k range, at least outside of a few inches. It doesn’t look like mismatched light, it all comes together to form a nicely blended beam.

As for why, well, personal preference I suppose. Where else would I be able to get a 3800k Nichia light? It also IMO brings out the best parts of each emitter rather than being a compromise.

Take that quad for example, I end up with a <4000k light which has a pleasant rosy tint because I selected the rosy SW45K, SW40, and SM4070e emitters. I get the below BBL characteristics from those emitters at a warmer temp thanks to the blend of a 3000k emitter in there.

I think Clemence put it best when he called it a Nichia cocktail, because much like a cocktail you don’t taste the individual ingredients, but rather they come together to make something different from any of the individual parts.

As promised I did try a 319A SM655 R7000, 219B SW45K R9080, and 219C SM273 R9050. The final tint is a very pleasant, very neutral 4700k-ish that still manages to be a touch rosy thanks to that SW45K. I don’t have a beamshot yet as the host still needs some work, but I did at least put the CUTE-3-SS optics in front of them and run it at 1 amp to see.

Mixing tints probably isn’t for everyone, but I suggest you give it a shot before dismissing the idea completely. I didn’t really understand it before I tried it either.

The last picture is 219B SW45K R9080, 219C SM4070e R9050, and 319A SM305 R8000 setup to go into my E2L.

1040

I respect that it works for you.

I go to a lot of effort to match my 3000k LED use to my 3000k ambient incandescent. I dislike using 6000k at that time so blending is completely not what I want.

Same when Im using a light during the day to work on a car in the sun. 3000k is terrible for that, I want all my LEDs to be at 6000k for that application.

and yes, I can shine my Cool white light onto a target, and then superimpose the beam of a Warm White light on top. Result, same blend as when you mix your LEDs… neither warm nor cool, instead an average

so yes, If for some reason I wanted a 4500k beam, and I don’t have a light with that CCT, then I could blend a 3000 w a 6000… I do see your point… but, when I want pink, I want a 4500k LED to begin with, no reason, for me, to use a 3000k+6000k, to get 4500k with less pink.

I still respect your efforts and appreciate your creative blending…

I have similar objection to blending other things, for example coffee… If I want Sumatra, I want all Sumatra, and when I want Colombian, I want all Colombian… but thats just me, plenty of people will blend some of the better with some of the cheaper… or even some of the sweet with some of the bitter, or whatever other variables and colors interest them

no wrong, just different prefferences for different applications

1041

Black Toraja or Aceh Gayo, that’s my coffee. Don’t mix em

1042

Yeah I like to blend everything, coffee, beer, juice, cider, food, and apparently light. For me I really wanted a 3500k-4000k light with as much red as possible. I think I ended up with more red this way than I would have with just straight 4000k emitters. To each their own, more options are always better.

Clemence, will you be restocking the 219B SW45K R9080 at any point, or are they gone for good? Now that I have used a few they really are nice, heck, I’ve been happy with every Nichia of yours so far. Awesome to finally have tint choices in Nichia high CRI.

1043

No, not now or in near future. Depleted by the MCPCB at the moment.
As soon as I can, I might include 219BT-V1 R9080. But the main goal is get the full 2000K-6500K R9080 E21A lineups, and of course all BBL binned (e or f) this time. E21A is the future IMHO

- Clemence