More fun with boost drivers and tint/emitter mixing today. Finished my Convoy M1 kiriba-ru quad build today. Emitters are run in 2S2P on one of Richards MTN Quad boards.
I have 4 different nichias, 219B SW45K R9080 in series with a 219C SM303 R9050, and 219B SW40 R9080 in series with 219C SM4070e R9050.
The result is a beautiful 3800k-ish beam with a bit of rosyness and no yellow at all really to my eyes. My favorite light I’ve ever built actually. The beam on the 25mm Khatod quad optics is excellent as well, much nicer than the Carclo IMHO.
I have to thank Clemence for making these emitters available, kiriba-ru for making the M1 quad kit available, RMM for making the quad boards available, and Kaidomain for making a quality boost driver (H1-A) easily available. Wouldn’t be possible without their efforts too.
The white balance and exposure on the beamshot don’t do it justice, but the best I could do on my phone.
Also because I didn’t post it in this thread last time, here is my previous mixed emitter build. Mostly done just to show off why I find boost drivers to be advantageous. It is a Convoy S2+ with a kiriba-ru triple pill, modified to accept a 20mm driver so I can run H1-A. Optics are Carclo 10507
Emitters are a Nichia 219B SW40 R9080, Nichia 319A SM355 R8000, and Cree XP-G3 30G 80+ CRI. Result is a 3500k-ish beam which is quite nice, and thankfully doesn’t exhibit the tint shift of the XP-G3 once blended with the nichias.
Being able to freely mix emitters regardless of Vf in multi-emitter lights is a game changer IMO, and is one of the reasons I adopted boost drivers for almost all of my multi-emitter builds now. I will be running series emitters whenever possible from here out.
ZozzV6:
You are correct. Stock the H1-A is suited for 6V emitters (like the 2S2P), but by changing one of the 47k feedback resistors to a 75k it can be setup for 9V operation no problem. I have several setup that way now, some have been running for a couple of months without issue.
LightRider:
I agree that they should make an e-switch version available, the MCU has a free pin which could be used for it. In the meantime, BLF user Cousin Elmer has written some basic custom firmware for the PIC on H1-A, so e-switch could likely be added if you’re willing to flash it yourself.
You are limited by the 10A input ceiling on the TPS61088 chip, so you can get about 24W fully regulated. Can do less too, tune the sense resistor to get the desired output. In my triples I usually use an R030 which is about 2.4A, for the 6V stuff I usually go with R020 which is good for about 3.5A. Stock is R025 which is a bit over 2.8A.
Either the microchip ICD3 programmer, a PICKit, or Cousin Elmer built something out of a raspberry pi that he is using. There is some minor PCB modification to be done as well so you can pull the MCLR pin to programming voltage. Or you can just pull the IC off, program it, then stick it back on if you don’t change it often.
Cool, I just might attempt it, if I new how?
Now if the driver originally was push button driver, and I wire up a 13a e-switch MCU it should work, since I’m going thru this MCU, or would I need something else?
Cool stuff Lexel.
basically same to mine with only one 0805 size 22K resistor in original placement, it barely fit, but works. My white LEDs are also blue under the cap, not that blue to the eye but camera looks more blue.
I swapped the emitter in my D4 few weeks ago for the KD 4000K ones, and today I decided to slice the domes for a little more throw :
Before and after :
As expected, the throw is improved and the tint has changed for a more rosy beam, nothing bad at all
Unfortunately, the beam is now more square-ish, as in the XP-L HI version I would guess.