Yes, I bought it from Simon! 
Here’s the link: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
The clip is just a regular S2+ clip (from Simon’s store) with 2 magnets and heatshrink tube. I gave some suggestions for these in this post!
It is very helpful to get it stuck in a metal surface for works or something else.
In the tail it has a magnet ring (also from Simon), and a bit of glow-in-the-dark adhesive tape to find it in the dark if lost!
And it also helps a lot :+1:
Thanks!
Are you able to measure the weight of regular S2+ DT with battery as well as the S2+ DT 18350 with battery? Curious to see the weight savings.
Also, how tall is it with the 18350 tube installed?
What do you prefer? 4C or 3A?
Is it correct that 4C is really more greenish than 3A?
3A for me, although I really like the warmer tints better, like 5D, but that’s not always an option.
And yes, in Cree’s tint binning xA & xD bins are above the bbl, which tend rosy. xB & xC bins are below, tending greenish. That doesn’t mean every emitter in those bins have those off-tints though. Some individual specimens in every bin will be close to the bbl and not have any cast at all, but if a given emitter drifts a bit, it’ll go in those directions.
i like 4C for outdoor and 3A for indoor. 3A still too white but 4c is borderline too yellow for me.
Well, I can’t weight it, I don’t have a (precision) scale 
However, I can show you this :nerd_face: 
I can tell you this: you won’t notice much difference between using this with a 18650 and a 18350 cell in terms of weight because there are only some grams in difference. Hand feeling of course.
But you’ll notice it in terms of length! That is for sure, and that’s the reason I like these conversions from 18650 to 18350, to be able to use the same light in a smaller shape, that has the same power and only loses runtime.
Here are some measurements of the S2+ Desert Tan vs a regular S2+ in both forms:
18350:
18650:
Size comparison with other lights:
The DT version is slightly bigger than the regular S2+ as can be seen. In terms of weight, I guess there is no difference (not significant, at least).
Thanks for the pics.
Strange. I’ve got two S2+, a DT and an older non-DT, and they’re both the same length.
Maybe there was a revision batch somewhere in time! I just realized that too making these measurements! I used the 2 different black S2+, so those are equal among them, and both are different from the DT!!
Are you using different length batteries, by any chance? Are the lights still different length with batteries removed?
In general, is there a difference in the length of a metal switch S2, compared to a rubber switch S2? That could account for the difference between the black and tan. The black ones have rubber switches, correct?
Here are the differences, side by side! Please note that everything has a equal size except the tail!
The difference may have to do with the interior space needed for the metal swicth, as korpzgrinda said. The clicky switches are equal in size, so maybe the metal made the difference against the rubber!
Initially I thought about the batteries, but even with a Panasonic protected vs Samsung 30Q there would not be a exterior difference, i guess!
Oh, OK. Both my S2+ have metal switches, so maybe that’s why they are same size in my case.
Yeah, perhaps all the metal clickies have the same length due to internal differences! Both my black are rubber tailcap and the tan is metal, so there’s the difference :+1:
About those tints, maukka gave me a nice updated tint chart. It explains a lot about why the A and D tints look so much better than B and C, among other things.
I definitely prefer the 3D and 5A tints of the BLF-A6, to Convoy’s offerings. It’s great that Convoy offers many choices (and I really like the 7A in some of their models, which nobody else offers), but I wish they’d stick to the A and D tints in all models. Even in the “3” tint offering, the 3D is so much nicer than the 3A (which tends to look almost cool white).
Respectfully but totally disagree. It may look fried-egg weird in the S2+, but in the S2 the 4C tint is by far the prettiest non-warm tint I’ve ever seen (slightly peach-y off-white, can easily pass off as pure white if it’s the only light source around, without the slightest hint of chromatic distortion), and that’s just one example. On my OP C8, it’s a little bit more yellow, but again, no hints of tint shift whatsoever: the whole beam is neutral, close-to-but-not-quite warm white. And while that’s all for my personal experience, I’m sure the other C and D tints have circumstances where they’re quite nice.
For the S2+, you might not be wrong, but judging the merit of a tint depends totally on the lens and reflector assembly of the torch the LED of that tint is set in. It’s impossible to make a blanket statement like that.
Yes, there’s certainly a wide variation in the tint bin themselves. It’s always a bit of a lottery. And AR coatings can definitely mess with how the beam profile shows tint shifts.
I really like Nichia 219 LEDs for general purpose lights. I’ve only ever had one “bad” Nichia 219 (it was yellow/green). Unfortunately, they’re not very good for high-output lights, at least not if you want efficiency. A 4000K - 4500K Cree LED is usually a good choice. Something in the 4A through 5A range is ideal (magenta side of the line, not the green side).
4C is okay though, i quite like it especially for ceiling bounce light up the room with warm cozy tint.
Not the S2+ Tan in 18350 version, but I guess it wont differ much from the regular S2+ on shorty version ! Both have batteries inside: the Tan version has Samsung INR18650-30Q flat top, the black S2+ has a Keepower IMR18350 750mAh, unprotected.
I took the clips out, just kept the magnets on the tail!
Thanks. Yes, I did some calculations after I asked my question, based on the indicated weight of a shorty tube and 18350 battery and got similar results… about 40g in weigh saving, give or take.