Q8 modding

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Tom Tom
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Tom E wrote:
Not a fan of copper braid though

It is the right stuff for this kind of application. Just as it is for e.g. grounding straps on cars, and aeroplanes, that have to survive lots of movement and vibration, with massive current, where ordinary wire wouldn’t last ten minutes.

I like it and use it.

patmurris
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Nice trick with the braids.
That’s efficiently cutting corners! Thumbs Up

Edit: just ordered 1m of 6mm copper braided wire from EB for just over $1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-15-22mm-1M-3-3ft-Pure-Copper-Braid-Cable-Bare-...

Tom E
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Tom Tom wrote:
Tom E wrote:
Not a fan of copper braid though
It is the right stuff for this kind of application. Just as it is for e.g. grounding straps on cars, and aeroplanes, that have to survive lots of movement and vibration, with massive current, where ordinary wire wouldn't last ten minutes. I like it and use it.

I've had them broken, come loose - when you do enough lights that get sent out all around the world, you have to consider these things and learn quick. Soldering is tricky - it creeps up the braid. In this type of use, I don't see much flexing there. Certainly the PCB is raised by the thickness - might not be much though. Only concern I see in this usage is coming loose from the top of the spring, but even so, if flopping around can't do any harm I suppose. I used to use braid as the only way of doing bypasses, but after several failures, gave up on it, as, I thought, many others did. There's also a good reason why bare exposed copper isn't used much. Silver coated multi-stranded copper is quite reliable.

vwpieces
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Also not a fan of the copper braid (Solder Wick) in just the spring bypass. The short length and 2 close by solder points, along with hardening flux usually makes a single or small flex point subject to breaking there.

I guess there s benefit in using copper braid opposed to solder wick, no flux to harden except the amount you apply, if any. Also the solder is less likely to wick down stream as fast or as bad. Tops of AlexGT springs look good in that aspect with minimal wicking. Going to the screw as he did is the shortest and most direct contact possible to the housing.

I would run it that way, no worries.

AlexGT
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Tom E wrote:

Tom Tom wrote:
Tom E wrote:
Not a fan of copper braid though
It is the right stuff for this kind of application. Just as it is for e.g. grounding straps on cars, and aeroplanes, that have to survive lots of movement and vibration, with massive current, where ordinary wire wouldn’t last ten minutes. I like it and use it.

I’ve had them broken, come loose – when you do enough lights that get sent out all around the world, you have to consider these things and learn quick. Soldering is tricky – it creeps up the braid. In this type of use, I don’t see much flexing there. Certainly the PCB is raised by the thickness – might not be much though. Only concern I see in this usage is coming loose from the top of the spring, but even so, if flopping around can’t do any harm I suppose. I used to use braid as the only way of doing bypasses, but after several failures, gave up on it, as, I thought, many others did. There’s also a good reason why bare exposed copper isn’t used much. Silver coated multi-stranded copper is quite reliable.

The way I try to keep the solder from creeping up the braid is by covering most of it with pliers that absorb the heat and prevent the solder from going up the only thing exposed is the piece of braid that is being soldered. Hope it made sense…

Like this…

AlexGT
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I am currently looking for a silicone wand diffuser that can be attached to the head for use as a lantern like the klarus silicone diffuser that fits perfect for the Manker U11

Hace you seen something that fits?

Something like this…

pommie
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Alex do a google for “white Squeeze lotion Bottle”
Lots of results for all sizes and opaqueness Smile

Cheers David

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

srs2000
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

^

Oh, swapped in one of those RBG slow flash emitters and a 56K resistor in the switch. 

I was thinking about doing that once I finally get mine. Anyway you can post a video of yours?

djozz
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Swapped the switch leds to orange. I video-ed doing it but watching a 12 minute video with crappy focus is a lot to ask for the reader of this post Party . Still here it is, to show how messy the act of modding can be, at least my way of modding. LOL

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Unbelievable. Soon you will reflow main leds while running in turbo Big Smile

leroycp
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I did enjoy that video. Tedious little buggars. Thanks for the tips. Learned a few new tricks.

patmurris
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Thanks djozz for the ‘uncut’ video. Those leds are so small… but you make it look rather easy, not even removing power on the light – but at least you know right away if it works. I didn’t hear any cursing either…

I was expecting that you would ‘try out’ each led on the board to determine which way to solder them, but you seem to know this off hand… How do you know the +/- on the leds before soldering?

djozz
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patmurris wrote:
How do you know the +/- on the leds before soldering?

There’s usually a marking on the back of the led pointing from + to – . The Q8 switchboard conveniently shows an arrow too (a diode symbol to be precise) too, between the solder pads.

On the front of the leds you can figure it out too, the – is the cup containing the die, the + is the wire going into the cup from above. And if there’s a green dot on the front, it is on the minus side.

Tom Tom
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Nitpicking, but ballsy to do it powered, to demonstrate.

I think you were shorting out the MCU output to the LEDs a couple of times when removing them (when both went out) ?. Encouraging that it survived a couple of brief shorts to ground. Maybe a “don’t try this at home” warning ?

JorisFRST
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There’s a resistor in series, so shorting out the led won’t affect anything.

Tom Tom
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JorisFRST wrote:
There’s a resistor in series, so shorting out the led won’t affect anything.

Ah yes. Forgot that. I was also worried about the croc-clip on the stand maybe also potentially shorting stuff when live.

Great skills and knowledge being demonstrated here. I’d never have dared try it myself.

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Don’t tell Tom, but I flashed ToyKeeper’s new ‘Andúril’ UI to one of my Q8s. It’s awesome! Love ‘Lightning Mode’ is soooooo fun!

I mentioned my pink 0603s in an earlier post. Here they are compared to the stock green emitters.

They’re rated for 3.0 – 3.2V and are running dimmer than the green ones with the stock resistor, just as I had hoped.

I got the ‘T’ straight but must’ve bumped the PCB. Big Smile

BTW, ToyKeeper is currently working on adding indicator LED support to Andúril, so my green switch is dark for now. This photo is from before the reflash.

djozz
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Lightning mode sounds awesome!

I have soldering skills, but knowledge not nearly as much, but I do like it to just do stuff without excluding all risks Big Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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srs2000 wrote:
ImA4Wheelr wrote:

^

Oh, swapped in one of those RBG slow flash emitters and a 56K resistor in the switch. 

I was thinking about doing that once I finally get mine. Anyway you can post a video of yours?

I can give it a shot.  I haven't successfully uploaded a video yet.

What sounds more interesting though is paralleling 2 of the slow flashers like djozz paralleled 6 in the lighted tailcap thread.  Lexel's post here makes it look like an easy mod.  An I just saw Lexel has posted an OSH Park board for 4 independent emitters here.

srs2000
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

I can give it a shot.  I haven’t successfully uploaded a video yet.


What sounds more interesting though is paralleling 2 of the slow flashers like djozz paralleled 6 in the lighted tailcap thread.  Lexel’s post here makes it look like an easy mod.  An I just saw Lexel has posted an OSH Park board for 4 independent emitters here.

If you don’t want to use youtube you can use http://imgur.com or https://gfycat.com – It’s a lot easier as long as its under a minute in length.

I almost ordered the board but since I’d be guessing and winging it at best I figured I’d wait and see how other people build it first.

Tom E
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smile It's ok, no prob. I'll just slowly fade away.....   laughing Replaced by a newer, younger, no doubt prettier, and probably smarter programmer. cry

Ohh - on the 3rd modded Q8, got this: 7,110 @start, 6,510 @30 secs  Dang!! All 3 within 200 lumens of each other, and again, not touching the LED's, LED wires, or FET.

Should be possible to hit 1,800 lumens per LED (7,200). Thinking the LED wires to 16 AWG and FET to SIR404DP, maybe improvements under the MCPCB (better grease, sand surfaces to 2000-2500 GRIT.

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Tom E Ohh – on the 3rd modded Q8, got this: 7,110 at start, 6,510 @30 secs

I’m going to have to try my first mod, Spring bypass seems easy enough.

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Lexel wrote:
4 LED

Order from OSH Park

Placed an order for the minimum qty (3) and the price was $0.95 with standard USPS shipping. Currently going through the posts to find the switch and resistor related comments.

Banggood – recommended for buyers who don’t mind an endless wait and continuous excuses for not dealing with defective items.
Fasttech – recommended for buyers who like to wait long periods with ever changing arrival dates for items that were ‘in stock’ when ordered.

TheOnlyDocc
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@Tom E
I can not measure the lumens but the Amps. How much Amps did you get at 7110?
Would be interesting if i am near that result.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

JorisFRST
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tekwyzrd][quote=Lexel wrote:
4 LED

Placed an order for the minimum qty (3) and the price was $0.95 with standard USPS shipping. Currently going through the posts to find the switch and resistor related comments.

Ordered those boards too, only thing i’m not sure about is the switch. The leds I ordered 0603 and the resistors 0805 (might be too big those?).

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This is the right switch (https://www.banggood.com/50pcs-4×4×2_5mm-Waterproof-Copper-Button-SMD-Tactile-Tact-Micro-Push-Switch-4-Pin-p-1024026.html?rmmds=myorder).
They also have one with a shorter nob. But then you will have a loose fit with the silicone cap.

Has someone measured the original SW board thickness?

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

goshdogit
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goshdogit wrote:
Don’t tell Tom, but I flashed ToyKeeper’s new ‘Andúril’ UI to one of my Q8s.

Tom E wrote:

smile It’s ok, no prob. I’ll just slowly fade away…..   laughing 

Don’t you dare! Silly

For those unfamiliar, Andúril is ToyKeeper’s new

ToyKeeper wrote:
“fancy all-in-one UI inspired by Tom E’s fantastic Narsil.”
tekwyzrd
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Lexel wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-A705NGT-330-Encapsulation-SOT-89-/132216716613#shpCntId

too bad they dont ship to Germany

This listing shows worldwide shipping and seems to be a similar switch.

edit: these are 5×5… arrgh! wish i had checked for new comments. well, it was less than $5 wasted.

Banggood – recommended for buyers who don’t mind an endless wait and continuous excuses for not dealing with defective items.
Fasttech – recommended for buyers who like to wait long periods with ever changing arrival dates for items that were ‘in stock’ when ordered.

Tom E
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
@Tom E I can not measure the lumens but the Amps. How much Amps did you get at 7110? Would be interesting if i am near that result.

Well, I'm not set up to measure amps for those tail MCPCB mods. I could swap tubes with the prototype that does have the clamp meter loop, see how close it performs in lumens, and if close, then can use it to measure amps. Thinking it's in the 20A-22A range though for these kind of numbers, based on my proto measurements.

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vwpieces wrote:
Anyone notice the raised brass ring is slightly cupped. I can see why the solder blob cells do well in this light.
I am using HG2 flat tops and they work fine with the slightly raised top, but the contact patch is smaller than a soldered 30Q would be. Think I’m gonna solder a set of 30Q’s for it next.

I kept the dual springs and used bare 22AWG to bypass into the through holes. Did not remove spring to do it. Also sanded off the red from traces on the backside added some solder on top of the traces, prolly not needed as the dual sided traces are best I have seen in width and well thought out tracks.


!{width:40%}https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bN1DOAj_KQ3z2l—Z5u8fiZSSKaJMeXlapNCa...!

Thanks for posting this. I just did the same with 22AWG. I didn’t go as far as soldering the traces, but I got a significant bump.

Brianbug

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