Ah yes. Forgot that. I was also worried about the croc-clip on the stand maybe also potentially shorting stuff when live.
Great skills and knowledge being demonstrated here. I’d never have dared try it myself.
Ah yes. Forgot that. I was also worried about the croc-clip on the stand maybe also potentially shorting stuff when live.
Great skills and knowledge being demonstrated here. I’d never have dared try it myself.
Don’t tell Tom, but I flashed ToyKeeper’s new ‘Andúril’ UI to one of my Q8s. It’s awesome! :heart_eyes: ‘Lightning Mode’ is soooooo fun!
I mentioned my pink 0603s in an earlier post. Here they are compared to the stock green emitters.
They’re rated for 3.0 - 3.2V and are running dimmer than the green ones with the stock resistor, just as I had hoped.
I got the ‘T’ straight but must’ve bumped the PCB.
BTW, ToyKeeper is currently working on adding indicator LED support to Andúril, so my green switch is dark for now. This photo is from before the reflash.
Lightning mode sounds awesome!
I have soldering skills, but knowledge not nearly as much, but I do like it to just do stuff without excluding all risks
I can give it a shot. I haven't successfully uploaded a video yet.
What sounds more interesting though is paralleling 2 of the slow flashers like djozz paralleled 6 in the lighted tailcap thread. Lexel's post here makes it look like an easy mod. An I just saw Lexel has posted an OSH Park board for 4 independent emitters here.
I can give it a shot. I haven’t successfully uploaded a video yet.
What sounds more interesting though is paralleling 2 of the slow flashers like djozz paralleled 6 in the lighted tailcap thread. Lexel’s post here makes it look like an easy mod. An I just saw Lexel has posted an OSH Park board for 4 independent emitters here.
If you don’t want to use youtube you can use http://imgur.com or https://gfycat.com - It’s a lot easier as long as its under a minute in length.
I almost ordered the board but since I’d be guessing and winging it at best I figured I’d wait and see how other people build it first.
It's ok, no prob. I'll just slowly fade away..... Replaced by a newer, younger, no doubt prettier, and probably smarter programmer.
Ohh - on the 3rd modded Q8, got this: 7,110 @start, 6,510 @30 secs Dang!! All 3 within 200 lumens of each other, and again, not touching the LED's, LED wires, or FET.
Should be possible to hit 1,800 lumens per LED (7,200). Thinking the LED wires to 16 AWG and FET to SIR404DP, maybe improvements under the MCPCB (better grease, sand surfaces to 2000-2500 GRIT.
Tom E Ohh - on the 3rd modded Q8, got this: 7,110 at start, 6,510 @30 secs
I’m going to have to try my first mod, Spring bypass seems easy enough.
4 LED
Placed an order for the minimum qty (3) and the price was $0.95 with standard USPS shipping. Currently going through the posts to find the switch and resistor related comments.
@Tom E
I can not measure the lumens but the Amps. How much Amps did you get at 7110?
Would be interesting if i am near that result.
[quote=tekwyzrd]
4 LED
Placed an order for the minimum qty (3) and the price was $0.95 with standard USPS shipping. Currently going through the posts to find the switch and resistor related comments.
Ordered those boards too, only thing i’m not sure about is the switch. The leds I ordered 0603 and the resistors 0805 (might be too big those?).
This is the right switch (https://www.banggood.com/50pcs-4x4x2_5mm-Waterproof-Copper-Button-SMD-Tactile-Tact-Micro-Push-Switch-4-Pin-p-1024026.html?rmmds=myorder).
They also have one with a shorter nob. But then you will have a loose fit with the silicone cap.
Has someone measured the original SW board thickness?
Don’t tell Tom, but I flashed ToyKeeper’s new ‘Andúril’ UI to one of my Q8s.
It’s ok, no prob. I’ll just slowly fade away……
Don’t you dare!
For those unfamiliar, Andúril is ToyKeeper’s new
“fancy all-in-one UI inspired by Tom E’s fantastic Narsil.”
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-A705NGT-330-Encapsulation-SOT-89-/132216716613#shpCntId
too bad they dont ship to Germany
This listing shows worldwide shipping and seems to be a similar switch.
edit: these are 5x5… arrgh! wish i had checked for new comments. well, it was less than $5 wasted.
@Tom E I can not measure the lumens but the Amps. How much Amps did you get at 7110? Would be interesting if i am near that result.
Well, I'm not set up to measure amps for those tail MCPCB mods. I could swap tubes with the prototype that does have the clamp meter loop, see how close it performs in lumens, and if close, then can use it to measure amps. Thinking it's in the 20A-22A range though for these kind of numbers, based on my proto measurements.
Anyone notice the raised brass ring is slightly cupped. I can see why the solder blob cells do well in this light.
I am using HG2 flat tops and they work fine with the slightly raised top, but the contact patch is smaller than a soldered 30Q would be. Think I’m gonna solder a set of 30Q’s for it next.I kept the dual springs and used bare 22AWG to bypass into the through holes. Did not remove spring to do it. Also sanded off the red from traces on the backside added some solder on top of the traces, prolly not needed as the dual sided traces are best I have seen in width and well thought out tracks.
Thanks for posting this. I just did the same with 22AWG. I didn’t go as far as soldering the traces, but I got a significant bump.
TheOnlyDocc:It would be nice if the switchboard holds at least 3 leds. Each with his own resistor. If 4 fit i am happy to get more mixing options. And if someone needs a new switch (because it got damaged or you want to put together new boards) you can get a package of 50 at BG for ~2$.
Drilling the holes is not necessary. You also could use a small roundfile or a reamer. . . just open up the hole 0,5mm so that the screw went throu without gripping the PCB.
this would requite that the resisistors are on the opposite side and 2 LEDs are 0603 if you stick to the same switch size on 5x5mm
Lexel, what is the thickness of these boards? Oshpark does not tell me.
The stock board is 1mm thick, but if they are the same thickness as the drivers that I’m used to (1.5mm?) they stick out of their gap in the Q8-head a little, which could cause the silicon cap not fully touch the rim and this could theoretically make it less waterproof, plus that the retaining ring does not screw in fully.
Lexel:http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-A705NGT-330-Encapsulation-SOT-89-/132216716613#shpCntId
too bad they dont ship to Germany
This listing shows worldwide shipping and seems to be a similar switch.
edit: these are 5x5… arrgh! wish i had checked for new comments. well, it was less than $5 wasted.
The board supports a 5mm switch and the original is 5mm
Lexel, what is the thickness of these boards? Oshpark does not tell me.
The stock board is 1mm thick, but if they are the same thickness as the drivers that I’m used to (1.5mm?) they stick out of their gap in the Q8-head a little, which could cause the silicon cap not fully touch the rim and this could theoretically make it less waterproof, plus that the retaining ring does not screw in fully.
you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick
you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick
:+1: thanks, did not know that option.
Any suggestions on a starting point for the resistor value for the Lexel designed switch boards?
Lexel:you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick:+1: thanks, did not know that option.
Ordered 3x 4led-version for 83 eurocents shipped. Oshpark is loosing money with these small boards we make on BLF .