Tasi 632A luxmeter, some tests

Thanks a lot! I appreciate the lux meter tests, since it seems to be difficult to find those. +–10% is very good for the price. I wonder how much the filters change through time, especially if you forget them in the sun and don’t use a cap in front of the sensor.

@MascaratumB, I bought mine on aliexpress too, could well be the same seller.

I have never seen any luxmeter review that goes beyond mentioning the specs. It seems to me that there’s the light professionals who know everything about the subject, and then there’s the rest of the world who have no idea what and how they are measuring. And a handful people like me have some clue and want to find out a bit more, without a full grip on the subject and without much equipment for testing.

About the filters: I don’t know more than you probably, colour filters often contain organic compounds that may be destroyed by light over time, hence your concern probably, and why luxmeters always come with covers over the sensor.

Thanks for the review djozz. Does SWMBO have the same enthusiastic thoughts about the meter as you do? :slight_smile:

When she came very tired back from work today, I tried the making of this review as an interesting conversation piece but for unknown reason she was not intruiged by spectral responses and proceeded straight to the couch ???

I must subscribe on this and will read later… :+1:

OK, I finally received mine…

Both of my order and Jos didn’t include the 12V power adapter and software CD. Tried to download it from the official website: http://www.china-tasi.com/en/Product/Digital_Light_Meter/2014/0508/133.html with no luck. Looks like the admin linked the software button to the manual file.
I contacted the store to get the file link. She sent me a corrupted winzip archive at first, later she sent me the good one. Here’s the download link: TASI600series

The program written for all TASI 600 series and designed for WinXP/Vista. The nostalgic UI would not appeal to modern people but I like it. Simple, too simple perhaps. Functions well.

I use Win10 (accidentally upgraded from Win7), I installed using the Vista version

Immediately after connected to the USB port the zero calibrated readings always jump to much higher value. I have to re-calibrate after the USB connection. Open the pull down menu to open the graphic UI.

Unlimited recording time with minimum 1 second interval.

When recording you might want to turn off the auto range feature in the handheld unit. Otherwise the transition between scales (Example: from 20lx to 200lx) will create a spike in the graph. In the pic above the flashlight was in low mode at 49,1 lx. When I switched to turbo mode the reading supposed to be 400-ish lx but the UI had to switch from 200lx scale range to 2000lx scale range. For a second the reading jumped to 4000-ish lx and then settled to the correct value. With (correct) manual ranging this will not happen. This is not really necessary as we can always sort the abnormal spike later in the excel table.

The file can be saved as to .xls or.csv. Very useful for long run time tests. Don’t forget to turn the APO (Auto Power Off) off in the handheld unit to prevent auto shut down after 15 minutes.

So far I like this light meter. Combined with Jos’s report this one has the much better quality (than most cheap MIC products), consistency, and nice features for it’s price.

- Clemence

Thanks clemence, that sounds very useful. Now I have to dust off my ancient windows laptop and see if I can do that too :slight_smile:

I really like that small Uni-t lux meter… Especially when I found it gives “right” numbers when I turn FC function on(seriously… without that turned on I have mixed results and have to recalculate lets say +13% for XP-G2 from your comparison test but when I turn FC on results settles where it logically should be…)
It is also very easy for handling… I can only recommend it and I really don’t need better light meter than it for this hobby. It is better than more expensive TES light meter(i paid around 200$ several years ago) i have at home.
Your percentage data in comparison with real lux meter is also very valuable…

But why not give Tasi a try? Someone will surely like it.

Got an uni-t ut383 and played with it today. Nice cheap meter. I got the best results with the F.C. function off. Compared it to other meters and known specs and it measures spot on for floody lights and about 10% to low for intense hotspots. I only have warmer tinted lights don’t know if this influences anything.

I think every blf should have one for this price.

Well… I don’t know how to explain that but for me(my all lights are over 200+kcd ) it works best with F.C. function on giving higher and more constant results. 1FC=10.76391 lux and online converter here: Footcandles to lux (lx) conversion calculator
I use regular mode for measuring intensity of IR lights(it cant really measure that but it can tell what is happening when you put directly on sensor and if lux raises and stays at certain value it means that IR light is OK if it drops a lot below that value it means something is done bad in process)

Anyway I really like it now it is very good and cheap product same like Uni-t clamp meter brother.

It would be really weird and worrying if setting the meter on fc or lux would matter, the meter should just do the conversion for you, nothing else.

You are right on this. There is exactly a factor 10.76 between the two settings. Does not matter which you use.

It is easier to read if nothing else… There is less digits to follow.

Which also means less precision.
If you want easier to read you can also just change the multimeter range…
Instead of using x10 you can use x100 or x1000

Not on the uni-t ut383. It has an autoscale.

:slight_smile: Now we talked that precision should remain same. Small uni-t has only FC function not x10 x100 or x1000 like most meters.

Edit: I just did one small test with uni-t and it is really annoying to follow digits of 240 kcd light on the wall. You are getting weird readings from 8900 - 9200 lux and they are changing while you moving the hand(flashlight hotspot around sensor)very frequently.

So when I put uni-t to FC function meter gains on stability of reading and I have for example very small variations like 850-860 FC at same distance and same light.

And now once again I am very sure what I am talking about. FC function on uni-t is more accurute, and more easy to follow in my case.

Maybe you guys fixate flashlight with some mount but I like to hold it in my hand and read from the distance (which in my case is 5 meters )

I do fix my flashlight and move the luxmeter with my hand, effectively the same but I’m closer to the display :slight_smile:
I understand why you use the fc setting: while moving around and maximising a digital reading in which two digits constantly change is a thing that is quite impossable for your brain, whatever the accuracy is. Just one changing digit is way easier to interpret and easier to get the meter or spot in the maximised position.

Thats why I like the max function.

Oh I see what you mean now, that makes sense.

Yes… That is the thing :+1: The way I hold the light ( holding it firmly but almost impossible to avoid slightly scroll with flashlight hotspot on uni-t sensor) makes classic uni-t lux mode to give a lot of jumping digits.
Of course that would not happen with proper flashlight mounting but I am pretty sure it will happen for anyone who uses his hands or wife help for lux measuring :slight_smile: so in that case turn FC function on and recalculate. I really love this light meter and it cost 10$. Everyone should have it same as unit clamp meter for current draw reading.
Not to mention portability of small guy… There are no more stretchy cables on lux meter. Just tape it on some distant spot in your house and enjoy :wink:

Feeling with uni-t meter is absolutely the same like when you bought your first budget thrower light lets say Jacob A60 and found that it throws further than lets say more expensive Tiablo A9 :slight_smile:

I really don’t have wish to use my expensive TES light meter any more. Sound like I am promoting uni-t company but I have nothing with them… Just can’t believe something can be so good(not super good just good of course) and dirt cheap.