This is the right switch (https://www.banggood.com/50pcs-4x4x2_5mm-Waterproof-Copper-Button-SMD-Tactile-Tact-Micro-Push-Switch-4-Pin-p-1024026.html?rmmds=myorder).
They also have one with a shorter nob. But then you will have a loose fit with the silicone cap.
Has someone measured the original SW board thickness?
This listing shows worldwide shipping and seems to be a similar switch.
edit: these are 5x5… arrgh! wish i had checked for new comments. well, it was less than $5 wasted.
Well, I'm not set up to measure amps for those tail MCPCB mods. I could swap tubes with the prototype that does have the clamp meter loop, see how close it performs in lumens, and if close, then can use it to measure amps. Thinking it's in the 20A-22A range though for these kind of numbers, based on my proto measurements.
Thanks for posting this. I just did the same with 22AWG. I didn’t go as far as soldering the traces, but I got a significant bump.
Lexel, what is the thickness of these boards? Oshpark does not tell me.
The stock board is 1mm thick, but if they are the same thickness as the drivers that I’m used to (1.5mm?) they stick out of their gap in the Q8-head a little, which could cause the silicon cap not fully touch the rim and this could theoretically make it less waterproof, plus that the retaining ring does not screw in fully.
The board supports a 5mm switch and the original is 5mm
you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick
:+1: thanks, did not know that option.
Any suggestions on a starting point for the resistor value for the Lexel designed switch boards?
Ordered 3x 4led-version for 83 eurocents shipped. Oshpark is loosing money with these small boards we make on BLF 
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@tekwyzrd
At Banggood you get 50 switches for about 2$. I have them and use them. Working like they should and are cheaper than on ebay.
And because each led has its own resistor i would start with something about 30K. Depends on the led voltage and desired led brightness.
Thanks Tom. So with 21,8A i am near that result.
Thanks djozz! I could not remember for sure. But i thought the board was thinner. Thats why i asked. Happy that i waited with the order.
it depends how bright you want them
some colors are dimmer than others with same resistor value
basically everything from 2.2k to 100k should work well
What would it take to add a ‘dragon breath’ effect to the switch leds?
absolutely fascinated by this. Thank you djozz. It surely helped me, hopefully others as well. I can’t believe those lil specks were LEDs. Was wondering why on the first one u removed u kept holding the tip of the iron to the left side of the LED to remove it? And WHERE is the resistor in this video??? Someone said that was all that was needed to replace the resistor and it was fine after that.
looked like regular needle nose pliers with a protective sleeve on it?
thanks again!
Well, the MCU would have to be kept running, or periodically woken up to implemented that. I'm pretty sure I can PWM the LED, so can adjust it's brightness. If the MCU had to kept on full, parasitic drain would be quite high, so have to look into optimizing that - maybe turn down the clock rate from 8 Mhz to 1 or 2, consumes less power, then see if the MCU could be put into deep sleep, but run a timer interrupt at maybe 4 Hz or so, so for example, if it runs 4X/sec, takes 25 msecs to execute, power consumption could be cut to 10% (100 msecs running out of 1000 msecs). Dunno - this is all theoretical til I or someone looks into it - I'm think'n TK 
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Anyway, that would be the mechanism periodically every 250 msecs, change the brightness of the LED's in a slow "breath" pattern. Didn't check parasitic drain of the MF-01 with the switch LED dragon breath on - not sure if anyone has yet.
saypat - I can answer some/most:
- iron is held on the side to get both top and bottom of soldered ends heated up at the same time
- resistor is on the bottom (go full screen, easier to see)
- if you want to fix unbalanced ones because the variation in voltage is a bit too high, then swap them out. Also if you want to change the color, then need to swap them
- think those are needlenose or could be snap ring tool like this, not exactly though.
So, modding question about screws here. I gather the electrical path from the springs to the body goes through the four steel springs screws
Is there a source of springs screws made of beryllium copper? I’m leery of copper or brass screws because they’re soft, but I find this about that alloy
https://www.google.com/search?q=beryllium+copper+hardness
“Its strength and hardness is similar to that of steel”
Seems like the ideal material for screws that serve as current path here.
I note there’s good reason to avoid alloys with beryllium because of concerns for worker safety.
springs you want: http://intl-outdoor.com/gold-plated-beryllium-copper-spring-5-pcs-p-831.html
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_81&product_id=385
Been around long time, odd dimensions though. Richard notes they collapse somewhat, non-recoverable. Not much range.
Steel springs are coated with conductive metal like gold and silver, etc. How thick the coating, how thick the spring, all big factors.
These also tend to collapse: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001712/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-spring-for-flashligh
djozz has other sources, did extensive testing: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/29825
Dagnabbit, I think I got autocorrected, or had a brain fade just above there.
Meant to inquire about screws made of beryllium copper — not springs. Corrected above.
(Good info Tom E posted about springs, though, worth keeping for reference)
Found a pleasant surprise from oshpark in my inbox.
this was quickly followed by another message informing me the order had been sent to fab.
