Q8 modding

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djozz
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Lexel wrote:
TheOnlyDocc wrote:
It would be nice if the switchboard holds at least 3 leds. Each with his own resistor. If 4 fit i am happy to get more mixing options. And if someone needs a new switch (because it got damaged or you want to put together new boards) you can get a package of 50 at BG for ~2$.

Drilling the holes is not necessary. You also could use a small roundfile or a reamer. . . just open up the hole 0,5mm so that the screw went throu without gripping the PCB.

this would requite that the resisistors are on the opposite side and 2 LEDs are 0603 if you stick to the same switch size on 5×5mm

Order from OSH Park

!{width:30%}https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.ra...!


Lexel, what is the thickness of these boards? Oshpark does not tell me.

The stock board is 1mm thick, but if they are the same thickness as the drivers that I’m used to (1.5mm?) they stick out of their gap in the Q8-head a little, which could cause the silicon cap not fully touch the rim and this could theoretically make it less waterproof, plus that the retaining ring does not screw in fully.

Lexel
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tekwyzrd wrote:
Lexel wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-A705NGT-330-Encapsulation-SOT-89-/132216716613#shpCntId

too bad they dont ship to Germany

This listing shows worldwide shipping and seems to be a similar switch.

edit: these are 5×5… arrgh! wish i had checked for new comments. well, it was less than $5 wasted.

The board supports a 5mm switch and the original is 5mm

djozz wrote:

Lexel, what is the thickness of these boards? Oshpark does not tell me.

The stock board is 1mm thick, but if they are the same thickness as the drivers that I’m used to (1.5mm?) they stick out of their gap in the Q8-head a little, which could cause the silicon cap not fully touch the rim and this could theoretically make it less waterproof, plus that the retaining ring does not screw in fully.

you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick

djozz
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Lexel wrote:

you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick

Thumbs Up thanks, did not know that option.
tekwyzrd
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Any suggestions on a starting point for the resistor value for the Lexel designed switch boards?

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djozz
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djozz wrote:
Lexel wrote:

you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner
1OZ are 1.6mm thick and
2OZ are 0.9mm thick

Thumbs Up thanks, did not know that option.

Ordered 3× 4led-version for 83 eurocents shipped. Oshpark is loosing money with these small boards we make on BLF Sad .
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@tekwyzrd
At Banggood you get 50 switches for about 2$. I have them and use them. Working like they should and are cheaper than on ebay.
And because each led has its own resistor i would start with something about 30K. Depends on the led voltage and desired led brightness.
Thanks Tom. So with 21,8A i am near that result.

Thanks djozz! I could not remember for sure. But i thought the board was thinner. Thats why i asked. Happy that i waited with the order.

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it depends how bright you want them

some colors are dimmer than others with same resistor value

basically everything from 2.2k to 100k should work well

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What would it take to add a ‘dragon breath’ effect to the switch leds?

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djozz wrote:
Swapped the switch leds to orange. I video-ed doing it but watching a 12 minute video with crappy focus is a lot to ask for the reader of this post Party . Still here it is, to show how messy the act of modding can be, at least my way of modding. LOL

absolutely fascinated by this. Thank you djozz. It surely helped me, hopefully others as well. I can’t believe those lil specks were LEDs. Was wondering why on the first one u removed u kept holding the tip of the iron to the left side of the LED to remove it? And WHERE is the resistor in this video??? Someone said that was all that was needed to replace the resistor and it was fine after that.

looked like regular needle nose pliers with a protective sleeve on it?

thanks again!

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patmurris wrote:
What would it take to add a 'dragon breath' effect to the switch leds?

Well, the MCU would have to be kept running, or periodically woken up to implemented that. I'm pretty sure I can PWM the LED, so can adjust it's brightness. If the MCU had to kept on full, parasitic drain would be quite high, so have to look into optimizing that - maybe turn down the clock rate from 8 Mhz to 1 or 2, consumes less power, then see if the MCU could be put into deep sleep, but run a timer interrupt at maybe 4 Hz or so, so for example, if it runs 4X/sec, takes 25 msecs to execute, power consumption could be cut to 10% (100 msecs running out of 1000 msecs). Dunno - this is all theoretical til I or someone looks into it - I'm think'n TK wink.

Anyway, that would be the mechanism periodically every 250 msecs, change the brightness of the LED's in a slow "breath" pattern. Didn't check parasitic drain of the MF-01 with the switch LED dragon breath on - not sure if anyone has yet.

Tom E
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saypat - I can answer some/most:

 - iron is held on the side to get both top and bottom of soldered ends heated up at the same time

 - resistor is on the bottom (go full screen, easier to see)

 - if you want to fix unbalanced ones because the variation in voltage is a bit too high, then swap them out. Also if you want to change the color, then need to swap them

- think those are needlenose or could be snap ring tool like this, not exactly though.

 

 

hank
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So, modding question about screws here. I gather the electrical path from the springs to the body goes through the four steel springs screws
Is there a source of springs screws made of beryllium copper? I’m leery of copper or brass screws because they’re soft, but I find this about that alloy
https://www.google.com/search?q=beryllium+copper+hardness

“Its strength and hardness is similar to that of steel”

Quote:
www.dura-barms.com ‘ Bronze ‘ Beryllium CopperC17200 is also known as Alloy 25 and is the most commonly utilized beryllium copper alloy and is notable for exhibiting the highest strength and hardness compared to commercial copper alloys. Its strength and hardness is similar to that of steel.

Seems like the ideal material for screws that serve as current path here.

I note there’s good reason to avoid alloys with beryllium because of concerns for worker safety.

Tom E
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springs you want: http://intl-outdoor.com/gold-plated-beryllium-copper-spring-5-pcs-p-831.html

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_81&product_id=385

Been around long time, odd dimensions though. Richard notes they collapse somewhat, non-recoverable. Not much range.

Steel springs are coated with conductive metal like gold and silver, etc. How thick the coating, how thick the spring, all big factors.

These also tend to collapse: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001712/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-spring-for-flashligh

djozz has other sources, did extensive testing: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35228

 

 

 

hank
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Dagnabbit, I think I got autocorrected, or had a brain fade just above there.

Meant to inquire about screws made of beryllium copper — not springs. Corrected above.

(Good info Tom E posted about springs, though, worth keeping for reference)

tekwyzrd
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Found a pleasant surprise from oshpark in my inbox.

Quote:
Hi! We had some free room on one of our Super Swift Service panels, so we took the opportunity to give you an upgrade…

this was quickly followed by another message informing me the order had been sent to fab.

Nothing travels faster than the speed of light with the possible exception of bad news, which obeys its own special laws. – Douglas Adams

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[quote=Tom E]

saypat – I can answer some/most:


 - iron is held on the side to get both top and bottom of soldered ends heated up at the same time


 - resistor is on the bottom (go full screen, easier to see)


 - if you want to fix unbalanced ones because the variation in voltage is a bit too high, then swap them out. Also if you want to change the color, then need to swap them

thank you Tom. Perhaps I could get fortunate and get that switch ring unscrewed. Then the board could come out far enuf. And someone could show where that resistor is, and could it be desoldered and another put it its place, or even solder another over the top off it. That other user, Antificus, said that the resistor was the problem. Perhaps this is something a modding noob could do? Don’t know where I would get a resistor though. I think he mentioned something like 15K? There is an electronics shop down the street but I don’t think u could buy 1 resistor?

just thinking for now.

thanks Tom. It’s rather amazing how u have kept up on your replies. I;m sure it’s much appreciated by all.

patrick

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Monkey see, monkey do not so great Big Smile I poorly copied what Tom E did.

First time modding. Spring bypass seemed easy enough, not with cheap solder iron though Innocent Also drilled out the driver screw holes. Still need to clean driver ring and maybe sand smooth where the PCB contacts the “clover/body” This Q8 gets hot quick compared to my other Q8. Not sure if that’s good or bad. Facepalm Sad

The PCB lays flat after some smoothing out.

Alright folks, Whats a good cheap solder iron? Was bored and wanted to tinker, Used a cheap one I had from autozone or harbor freight, yeah I know Blushing Tired

Amazon preferred, but banggood or other site is fine. Also good solder to get? What/anything else needed to have a ok set up?

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I use a soldering iron I got from Harbor Freight for no more than $3 + a pack of 4 to 5 replacement tips from China. The stock one wore through the outer plating and started eroding away, but I’ve been using one of the replacement tips for 15+ uses already and it’s going strong. The most popular budget but decent quality iron I see recommended is a hakko fx-888d. As for solder I switched to some 63/37 solder and it works great.

Other random tools that are useful are copper desoldering braid, a desoldering tool, some flux, solder paste, soldering tweezers, a helping hand, and brass scouring pad to clean the tip are all things that can help make your life easier.

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Jtm94 wrote:
The most popular budget but decent quality iron I see recommended is a hakko fx-888d. As for solder I switched to some 63/37 solder and it works great.

Other random tools that are useful are copper desoldering braid, a desoldering tool, some flux, solder paste, soldering tweezers, a helping hand, and brass scouring pad to clean the tip are all things that can help make your life easier.

I’ve been using the same tip for years, I’m sure that’s causing issues as well. It’s all eroded/oxidized, When I scrape the tip with my knife I can get solder melting easy.

Was looking for something a bit cheaper Big Smile But the rest of your list looks good. The only soldering I ever done was wires together. Never learned how to solder, like using flux, etc….

Thank you.

Edit: Just watched a couple youtube videos. Yup had no idea about tinning and flux. Blushing

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You can do some searching around to find other people’s takes on it I’ve seen it discussed here a time or two.

You can always look for a Weller as an okay readily available stand alone iron. I’ve heard decent thoughts on the iron from Adafruit, the XY-258. Have a look around I’m sure others will weigh in.

edit to avoid double post:
I finally made some changes to my approximating shoe box to accommodate larger lights. Testing my MF01 and comparing to some others testings I got it about as dialed in as a phone + ceiling bounce app can be. I’m within 5-10% across all levels and that’s good enough for me Thumbs Up . My Q8 isn’t fully charged and it’s reading about 6,000 lumens at startup and 5,800 at 30 seconds so at least I know the little bit of work I did on it meant something. Will report what I measure on full cells when the time comes to charge them.

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Lexel wrote:
you have to order the 2 OZ boards as they are thinner 1OZ are 1.6mm thick and 2OZ are 0.9mm thick

ha, darn, luckely the’re only 0.95

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saypat wrote:
…Don’t know where I would get a resistor though. I think he mentioned something like 15K? There is an electronics shop down the street but I don’t think u could buy 1 resistor?

I’m about the same as you… never soldered a SMD component, but maybe i’ll try something on the switch board. I ordered some leds, and thinking about getting some resistors. There are kits out there – not sure which one to get though…
https://fr.aliexpress.com/wholesale?site=fra&g=y&SearchText=0603+resisto...

Hope this helps a bit… Smile

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patmurris wrote:
saypat wrote:
…Don’t know where I would get a resistor though. I think he mentioned something like 15K? There is an electronics shop down the street but I don’t think u could buy 1 resistor?

I’m about the same as you… never soldered a SMD component, but maybe i’ll try something on the switch board. I ordered some leds, and thinking about getting some resistors. There are kits out there – not sure which one to get though…
https://fr.aliexpress.com/wholesale?site=fra&g=y&SearchText=0603+resisto...

Hope this helps a bit… Smile

I have harvested resistors from old circuit boards I have laying around, in a pinch.

Brian

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Thanks for the video on swapping the leds djozz. You have far more skills than I soldering like you did. I may have to buy new speakers as I could only hear heavy breathing throughout and no cursing. Smile Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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Tom E
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In production.

I did pop off 2 outer springs out of 20. They are a pain to re-solder since the coating seemed to have peeled off on the bottom, and without the coating, nothing to solder to.

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MRsDNF wrote:
Thanks for the video on swapping the leds djozz. You have far more skills than I soldering like you did. I may have to buy new speakers as I could only hear heavy breathing throughout and no cursing. Smile Beer

I shall work on the entertainment value of my video’s in the future Steve , perhaps even editing in some faul words Innocent
Tom Tom
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Tom E wrote:

In production.


I did pop off 2 outer springs out of 20. They are a pain to re-solder since the coating seemed to have peeled off on the bottom, and without the coating, nothing to solder to.

Tom, you may be able to solder the steel springs (plating peeled off) quite easily using a strong active flux.

This is what I use, if I can’t get the solder to wet with this stuff, I give up. But having strong acid etc. you must wash it off afterwards, or at least clean thoroughly using e.g. IPA and a bristle brush (always good practice, even leaving “no-clean” flux on PCBs is all very well, but I like everything squeaky clean).

Definitely not to be used on electronic components, just metal parts:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1260004

Applied using one of these:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1155702

Usually I junk the steel springs and use these “carobronze” springs instead, provided they fit (they are quite small). They perform very well, and don’t usually benefit much from a bypass:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1347100

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Or you can use Lötöl-ST from Felder. It is spcially made to connect solder with steel. Works perfect! But be sure to clean the joints after you finnished. This stuff will corrode your joints it it stayes on.

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Tom Tom
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PS: For newbie modders, here a couple of essentials for getting started on SMD parts:

Fine solder: https://www.fasttech.com/products/2529000

Rosin flux paste (apply with jewellers screwdriver, unbent paperclip etc.): https://www.fasttech.com/products/1784101

These are just what I have bought myself and found good, but Fasttech are well stocked for many other such stuff and a good supplier. They also do sample packs of SMD resistors etc.

https://www.fasttech.com/category/2257/soldering-supplies

I have also found this solder paste is good (keep it in the fridge, as with any solder paste): https://www.fasttech.com/products/1261003

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Wow, no idea flux like that even existed!! Too bad it's out of stock, but guess I know what to look for. I got a ton of those carobronze springs - yea, djozz tested, many times hard to find a usage because of the size, and they tend to collapse a little.

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