Nobody knows.
If the next 500 lights are ready they will probably start shipping today or in the next days, but thatâs just a guess.
Weâll know when people start to report shipping notice emails from BG.
However, there is a big holiday coming in China, so even if itâs shipped, it may well stay put for a while as most of the country will be off work.
Not when I ordered (Iâm at least 5 hours ahead of you Yanks, we run on GMT+1 at the moment), and get up very early. I think it was sitting on about 800 when I hit the go button, that was my strategy. But maybe I mis-remember. In any case, not bothered.
Edit: my order date of Sept 12 was China time which is 7 hours ahead of UK time (checked PayPal receipt) So I ordered on the 11th, depending how you look at things. (the only true time is at the Greenwich Meridian, despite what everyone else would like to think, or try to re-name it UTC etc.) Thought my brain wasnât ready to give up just yet.
To have a little bit better statisticts: My Q8 arrived today with the expedited shipping service.
Leds in the Button: 100% ok and even
Screws at the PCB: Not stripped
Screws at the Tailcap: One slightly stripped, all 3 others A-OK.
Emitters centered, flawless reflector
No kinks or damage to the Frame
Only the brass ring at the plus pole was a little bit dirty.
So I noticed a post by TA Tom E that someone had 135uA through the switch LED and it didn't work, then lowered the resistance and had 155uA and then it did work.
I don't think that's a Vf issue and I never felt Vf variability would cause this, although it depends how close the diode Vf is to the supply voltage. It could cause mismatch in the LED's when driven through a single resistor but it shouldn't cause them to quit entirely, and 155uA to 135uA probably shouldn't either. That looks like some kind of leakage current problem, like 135uA isn't real functional diode current, thus it not making light. Is it normal for an LED to have a minimum turn-on current?
The total parasitic drain for the Q8 is 135uA. The LEDs drain 113uA and the driver drains 22uA.
Amplificus swapped the 15K switch resistor to a 10K resistor and that made his switch lights start working again. Then he measured his parasitic drain again and got a total of 155uA.
Its much more complicated, the LEDs are being operated on the knee of a very rapidly reducing curve, not a nice flat region (datasheet Vf). A few microamps difference could make all the difference between lighting up nicely or not. Most of the microamps will not be going into making light, at these low levels, the majority will just be leaking through the compound semiconductors in the LED, to no effect. It is far from a linear relationship between current and light output at these infinitesimal levels, and this is on the ragged edge.
Edit: and the actual âVfâ will be varying hugely with tiny changes of current at these low levels. Amazing it can work so well with just a series resistor, it is absolutely not just a simplistic Vf=x, current = y, thus therefore voltage drop across resistor = Vbatt (variable) -(Vf at current =y), apply Ohms law, resistor defined, whack it in. Oh no.
What time coordinates are those ? China is at least 12 hours ahead of US east coast (I think, may have it an hour or two wrong).
Maybe correct it to GMT (or UTC if you must), or back-calculate to Banggood China time (not sure what zone they are in, I think they stick to standard)
Nevertheless the gist suggests to me I was a bit late with my first order.
PS: Wim sent me the codes 2 hours before they went live âCodes start working on Sep, 7th 10:00 am (UTC+8).â