(it needs only some cheap hardware and free software, and the Q8 makes it particularly easy since the driver comes out far enough to access the right parts without soldering)
I thought reports of issues were being solicited to help the Q8 crew. My mistake as this seems to be taken as “complaining”. Hope everything goes well with the lights you receive….sorry
Orange peel, if your light has problems (well, it won’t have problemS as there is just one problem known) you should tell the team either here or via pm. They will have their own list of issues (there is one in the op).
There is no need for ‘us’ to make a list in the forum adding more and more posts to the thread, thus making it harder to find relevant information.
Asking for a list of issues sounded maybe a little rude and didn’t show good intentions.
Edit: I now know you, orange peel, did not ask for the list. I got the posts confused. Sorry
Don’t get me wrong. I will still report issues here to inform everyone (I don’t consider that as complaining) and hopefully able to resolve them. In case it can’t be resolve I’ll just disable the switch (cos i’m not FL modder) to me the main led is the most important component of a good FL even my X80 switch is not lighted ones…haha
… and a couple days ago I found a way to make moon mode run even longer — like 3X to 4X as long.
Basically, underclocking the CPU and using an idle state while at the lowest modes. It doesn’t matter at most brightness levels, but on moon and a few levels above it, it really makes a huge difference.
I paid $3500 for the true original IBM PC, DOS 1.0, B&W monitor back in 81 or 82 - could not afford color. Having programmed both, I'd say the Attiny85 is far more advanced. Just fyi...
Received mine today with Air Parcel Register, Thailand post. Buyed on 7th September and shipped on 8th. Package was OK.
Out of the box, no signs of damage on the flashlight, it’s perfect. Also, reflector is OK.
Leds: 2 out of centre, 2 perfects. Not so good but I think it’s ok.
Threads are lubrificated but o-rings are completely dry.
There was some sandblast in the tube, especially in threads, cleaned all before lubrification.
Screws at PCB are a little stripped but no problem to unscrew them, they were not so tight.
PCB in the tailcap is well centered and the driver in the tube is dirty (black traces) but is flat.
Switch leds are ok, light is uniform but they are a bit misaligned. No problem. Now I’m burning them to test, hope they will not start flickering.
Thanks to all!