Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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The Miller
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Flashy Mike is may be a good thing you can’t see the pictures, those damages look pretty bad.
Wonder what they did to this poor Q8 Sad

All posts of things people run into are welcome of course

myflashguy
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OrangePeel wrote:
I thought reports of issues were being solicited to help the Q8 crew. My mistake as this seems to be taken as “complaining”. Hope everything goes well with the lights you receive….sorry Blushing

Don’t get me wrong. I will still report issues here to inform everyone (I don’t consider that as complaining) and hopefully able to resolve them. In case it can’t be resolve I’ll just disable the switch (cos i’m not FL modder) to me the main led is the most important component of a good FL even my X80 switch is not lighted ones…haha Big Smile

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The Miller wrote:
Flashy Mike is may be a good thing you can’t see the pictures, those damages look pretty bad.
Wonder what they did to this poor Q8 Sad

All posts of things people run into are welcome of course

Yeah. Looks like I made it.

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OrangePeel wrote:
myflashguy wrote:
The Miller wrote:
Of course lighted switch should work If you or anybody has an issue with theirs let it know I think the remark about seeing somebody was because it seemed you wouldn’t be able to enjoy yours if it had working switch LEDs because you know somebody else has an issue with theirs. I don’t think it is the best of advice though Wink I’d say only get custom made things so you know you have the only one and nobody else can have an issue with theirs since there are no others Smile

I’ll disable my switch led before I light them up and tell myself that my Q8 is very special while others have lighted switch mine have a glow in the dark rubber switch cover…… Crazy

I will accept my “special” light & STFU….. Crazy

Edit : mine shipped today on the way too

Edit again : just a joke for those with switch problem please don’t misunderstood….sorry Blushing

I thought reports of issues were being solicited to help the Q8 crew. My mistake as this seems to be taken as “complaining”. Hope everything goes well with the lights you receive….sorry Blushing


Everyone on the Q8 team does want to hear about any problems or issues anyone might be having.

Myflashguy is not on the Q8 team. He is just a regular member like me and was making a joke. I hope this clears things up.

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legan710 wrote:
Orange peel, if your light has problems (well, it won’t have problemS as there is just one problem known) you should tell the team either here or via pm. They will have their own list of issues (there is one in the op).

There is no need for ‘us’ to make a list in the forum adding more and more posts to the thread, thus making it harder to find relevant information.

Asking for a list of issues sounded maybe a little rude and didn’t show good intentions.


Just to clarify, orange peel did not ask for a list of problems, it was winspiration who asked.

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The Miller wrote:
Flashy Mike is may be a good thing you can’t see the pictures, those damages look pretty bad.
Can see them now on my smartphone, probably some javascript failure on my notebook. Not beautiful, indeed.
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Yeah mine shipped out. I was around 601 when i preordered.

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goshdogit wrote:
I can almost hear him now:

“And now, the runtime tests. Moonlight mode runs for about seventy-five thousand minutes before LVP kicks in…”

… and a couple days ago I found a way to make moon mode run even longer — like 3X to 4X as long. Big Smile

Basically, underclocking the CPU and using an idle state while at the lowest modes. It doesn’t matter at most brightness levels, but on moon and a few levels above it, it really makes a huge difference.

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Underclocking a flashlight, now I have seen everything.

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JasonWW wrote:
Good thing TK is not here, she might put them in a ship.

That was over 6000 posts ago… must have been a memorable ship. Wink

BTW, if you kept in touch, how are Sir Jason’s springs doing on this fine day in Houstington? Still supple and firm, I hope?

On a lexically-related note, I got a Q8 shipping notice today. Happy times!

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winspiration wrote:
Can someone please make a list of all the issues and fixes for this flashlight? I’m a newbie and would hate for it to fail on me while camping. I’ll probably take it to someone and have them fix it. Thanks.

Read The Miller’s first post on this thread under REAL ISSUES FOUND

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legan710 wrote:
Underclocking a flashlight, now I have seen everything.

If you think dynamic underclocking on a flashlight is bad, you should see its event routing, hardware abstraction, and multitasking systems. Silly

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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Good thing TK is not here, she might put them in a ship.

That was over 6000 posts ago… must have been a memorable ship. Wink

6000 posts ago. That was last week, right? Silly

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legan710 wrote:
Underclocking a flashlight, now I have seen everything.

Modern flashlights have little computers in them. Cool, huh?

ToyKeeper, what would the Atmel ATTINY85 be equivalent to as far as a time period in computer history?

Surely my old commodore 64 from the mid 80s is more advanced.

Maybe it’s equivalent to 70’s era computers with its tiny storage? It might have higher clock speeds, though. IDK. I’m just guessing.

Edit, I see the tiny 85 can do 10 megahertz and has 512 bytes of sram.

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Tom E
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I paid $3500 for the true original IBM PC, DOS 1.0, B&W monitor back in 81 or 82 - could not afford color. Having programmed both, I'd say the Attiny85 is far more advanced. Just fyi... smile

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Received mine today with Air Parcel Register, Thailand post. Buyed on 7th September and shipped on 8th. Package was OK.
Out of the box, no signs of damage on the flashlight, it’s perfect. Also, reflector is OK.
Leds: 2 out of centre, 2 perfects. Not so good but I think it’s ok.
Threads are lubrificated but o-rings are completely dry.
There was some sandblast in the tube, especially in threads, cleaned all before lubrification.
Screws at PCB are a little stripped but no problem to unscrew them, they were not so tight.
PCB in the tailcap is well centered and the driver in the tube is dirty (black traces) but is flat.
Switch leds are ok, light is uniform but they are a bit misaligned. No problem. Now I’m burning them to test, hope they will not start flickering.
Thanks to all!

ToyKeeper
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Quote:
sometimes a click won’t turn the light off

From what people are saying, it sounds like the issue is that a single short click must be less than 18 frames (0.288 seconds). If the click is too slow, it will be interpreted as a longer click or hold, and won’t turn the light off.

The threshold here is a somewhat tricky one. Too short and people have difficulty getting it to register a short click. Too long and it makes the entire interface feel slow or cumbersome. And it’s still subject to personal preference and dexterity.

The lights I’ve personally used vary from 0.288 seconds to 0.5 seconds in their short click threshold. Maybe even 0.6. I found the 0.5s ones to be a bit on the long side, and it sounds like 0.288 may be a bit on the short side. So on mine I went with a threshold of 24 frames (0.384 seconds). I don’t know if this is a good value, but I’ve found it pretty usable.

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Received mine last night and everything looks great and functions perfectly. Button LED’s work great, narsil is fantastic, no damaged screws, threads are smooth, anodizing feels high quality, machining work is excellent. Unreal that this only cost $40!

Great work to everyone involved in this project!

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The Miller wrote:
Yes please post about how the LEDs are flowed!

BrianK wrote:
TM, mine are on and working perfectly and I burned them in for 24 hours so I think I’m good. But I’d like them on permanently and not turning off when the light is switched on. I don’t see anything labeled that in the information I have.
You need an software update for that.
I have seen Tom react to it so it is likely it will be added at some point
would be great, tho i dont think he will come to my home in israel to make me a software upgrade.
i love this light Big Smile
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Phew! Caught up on posts. One thing kept coming to mind while reading though…

people wrote:
dozens of inflammatory posts about every little Q8 detail and about other people

I haven’t often marked posts as rude, even if they’re obviously problematic. Maybe I should, but instead I typically use a different method — if someone has a sustained or repeated habit of arguing, stirring up trouble, or escalating conflicts, I add them to my browser’s stylesheet override. It makes their text small and dim and makes the header bar red instead of blue. Then when reading, I typically skip those red posts since they’re unlikely to be interesting or productive.

I’ve only got a handful of people on that list, but selectively turning down the volume really helps make some threads more tolerable. And it’s a good reminder that, most of the time, the most appropriate response to inflammatory posts is to ignore them.

It’s generally not that there’s anything particularly rude about any given post. It’s more like when a few people drive aggressively in dense traffic in order to gain a small relative advantage. Some of those maneuvers are things anyone would probably need to do from time to time… but doing it a lot creates waves which travel outward through the rest of the traffic, and those waves tend to cause collisions or other problems. It only takes a few overly-aggressive drivers to make the entire road come to a complete stop.

The idea is not just to consider one’s individual actions and circumstances, but to consider the larger effect it has on everyone nearby. Don’t be an aggressive driver on the internet.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Quote:
sometimes a click won’t turn the light off

From what people are saying, it sounds like the issue is that a single short click must be less than 18 frames (0.288 seconds). If the click is too slow, it will be interpreted as a longer click or hold, and won’t turn the light off.

The threshold here is a somewhat tricky one. Too short and people have difficulty getting it to register a short click. Too long and it makes the entire interface feel slow or cumbersome. And it’s still subject to personal preference and dexterity.

The lights I’ve personally used vary from 0.288 seconds to 0.5 seconds in their short click threshold. Maybe even 0.6. I found the 0.5s ones to be a bit on the long side, and it sounds like 0.288 may be a bit on the short side. So on mine I went with a threshold of 24 frames (0.384 seconds). I don’t know if this is a good value, but I’ve found it pretty usable.


Seems like another thing that would be nice to be able to configure….
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Quote:
sometimes a click won’t turn the light off

From what people are saying, it sounds like the issue is that a single short click must be less than 18 frames (0.288 seconds). If the click is too slow, it will be interpreted as a longer click or hold, and won’t turn the light off.

Yeah, I’ve had it too and that’s probably it. It does not help that the natural reflex when the light won’t turn off is to click again with more pressure and less speed. The correct solution is the opposite: a lighter, faster click. Once you know about it, it’s fine.
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JasonWW wrote:
what would the Atmel ATTINY85 be equivalent to as far as a time period in computer history?
Tom E wrote:
I paid $3500 for the true original IBM PC, DOS 1.0, B&W monitor back in 81 or 82 – could not afford color. Having programmed both, I’d say the Attiny85 is far more advanced. Just fyi… smile

It seems pretty similar to an old Intel 8086 CPU from the late 1970s, only with less space and more bonus features like the watchdog timer, ADC, and automatic PWM. The raw computational power is relatively low, and the storage space is even lower, but it has nice facilities for embedded purposes.

Tom E
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The PC I bought had 16KB external memory, so double the Attiny85 has built in. The 8086 was a full 16 bit processor, while the 8088 in the PC was a half breed - 8 bit bus, 16 bit addressing, If I recall correctly, and a clock rate of 4.77 Mhz. 8 Mhz was a big upgrade at the time. Yea, so I'd correlate the Attiny85 to that time period, but of course back then it took a large PCB board to have all the features built into the ATTiny85. I worked on projects using the 8086, 2-86, and also the Z-80, 8085, and assorted other micro-controllers.

But again where these small micro-controllers have evolved has been in the area of integration, integrating many of the peripherals on to one silicon wafer, where in the past, RAM, ROM/FLASH, interrupt controllers, timers/counters, etc. were all separate, and of course the interfaces were in general slower.

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My status just changed to “shipping”.
Thanks again Q8 team!

Mike

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OrangePeel wrote:
I thought reports of issues were being solicited to help the Q8 crew. My mistake as this seems to be taken as “complaining”. Hope everything goes well with the lights you receive….sorry Blushing

Ahha…..now i know why u misunderstood my statement. I posted a joke right after u reported your Q8 problem with photos. That was not my intention I did not quote you. No offence. But after thoroughly looking at your photo your Q8 is quite rough. Was your order same batch as those earlier problematic Q8??

I’m still waiting for mine don know what to expect Facepalm

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ToyKeeper wrote:
goshdogit wrote:
I can almost hear him now: "And now, the runtime tests. Moonlight mode runs for about seventy-five thousand minutes before LVP kicks in..."
... and a couple days ago I found a way to make moon mode run even longer -- like 3X to 4X as long. Big Smile Basically, underclocking the CPU and using an idle state while at the lowest modes. It doesn't matter at most brightness levels, but on moon and a few levels above it, it really makes a huge difference.

 

I haven't gone as extreme as underclocking, but the idle trick was core to HD.  I needed to save power when on anyway since it takes time to detect power off, time running the cap down.  So I replaced the waits with idle sleeps, it cut mcu power from 4mA to 2mA, so applied it to all the builds, even biscotti-HD.  I figure an 0.5 lumen moon mode should get just over 40 days of on time. I called it the feature Noah's Torch, but maybe Noah's candle is better.

 

Underclocking sounds like a nice addition.  Is two months at 1 lumen possible?  The newer mcu's have much better power savings though. 

 

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winspiration wrote:
Can someone please make a list of all the issues and fixes for this flashlight? I’m a newbie and would hate for it to fail on me while camping. I’ll probably take it to someone and have them fix it. Thanks.

So, here’s the thing. We are a critical bunch, and a lot has been posted about the Q8. Most of the concerns are about things like buggered heads on screws that you will NEVER be messing with in the field. The issue with the switch LED’s is unfortunate and is being addressed, but except for being able to find the Q8 in the dark, does not affect function. I would not worry about the Q8 failing while camping. You may run the batteries down, but that is not a failure. Note that if you are playing with the Q8 in the dark and trying to understand the cheat sheet and familiarize yourself with Narsil, you will need a second light to read the manual while clicking away.

Having said all the above – I think it is a good idea to have a list to go through when you get your Q8. Please understand that the Q8 will likely be fine out of the box, this list includes some VERY basic suggestions for improving things. I hope that it is close to complete, and I will revise anything that is suggested.

Checking a new Q8.

Before putting cells in.

  • Inspect the exterior of the light for any sharp edges or scratches that may catch on skin or clothes. Smooth as necessary.
  • Check the reflector and LED’s for centering, realign as necessary.
  • Inspect the exterior of the light for any cosmetic issues. Minor scratches in the annodizing may be coverable with Sharpie marker.
  • Unscrew the head and inspect the battery tube. There has been one light reported with burrs on the tube that damaged a cell wrapper. Scrape or abrade if necessary.

Tail and battery tube.

  • Unscrew tail cap, inspect PCB and retaining screws.
  • Remove PCB retaining screws (4 – M2.5 wafer head) – many of the first lights have buggered heads. Replace if absolutely necessary.
  • Use an M2.5 bottoming tap to chase the threads in the battery tube.
  • Chamfer the top of the four holes to ensure that the tail PCB lays flat on the whole ledge rather than on the displaced material on top of the four holes.
  • Look for any glue residue near the holes. Remove any residue from both PCB and tube.
  • Polish to your level of OCD the ledge that the PCB sits on. This is what contacts the tail PCB and carries current from the battery negative up to the head.
  • Clean any sand blast residue and tapping chips from inside the screw holes. Compressed air or a spray solvent should work.
  • Apply very thin layer of NO-OX-ID to the ledge.
  • Inspect and manipulate the springs, there has been a report of cold solder joints leading to loose springs.
  • Perform spring bypass / upgrade if desired. See post by Tom E for one method.
  • Find screws and carefully reinstall tail PCB. (Note 1)
  • Fold cheat sheet according to instructions.
  • Lube tail cap threads and O-ring with your prefered sauce and screw tail cap over the cheat sheet.
  • Inspect threads and contact ring on top side of battery tube. There have been some reports of rough surfaces. Polish smooth as necessary.

Head and driver PCB.

  • Inspect driver PCB retaining screws (2 – M3.0) – many of the first lights have buggered heads. Replace if absolutely necessary.
  • Using an appropriately sized drill bit (1/8” is 3.125mm) drill the driver PCB mounting holes out to clearance size. The screws should not bite into the PCB as this can cause the PCB to not sit flat. I recommend against using a drill motor, try just using your fingers.
  • If desired or necessary, chamfer the driver mounting screw holes.
  • Clean any dust and debris from head.
  • Inspect driver board solder joints. The ONE reported DOA had a poorly soldered wire.
  • Upgrade If you are concerned about an impact turning off the light, there is a mod being discussed in the Q8 Modding thread that may change that behavior. This is developing and is not yet tested completely.
  • Check centering of positive battery contact ring – this is a cosmetic issue only (IMHO).
  • Clean and polish the battery contact ring and perimeter ring of PCB to your level of OCD .
  • Find screws and reinsert driver PCB, taking care not to pinch any wires. (Note 1)
  • Lube threads and O-ring with your prefered sauce.

Powering up.

  • Install batteries. Pay attention to the polarity. Positive UP, negative on springs.
  • I printed a copy of the cheat sheet a little larger (75 mm high after cutting) and rolled it up – it now fits perfectly between the four cells. I can read this larger version.
  • Thread head onto battery tube. Point emitters away from eyes while doing this, and watch the switch as it makes contact. Emitters and switch should blink twice on full contact.
  • Emitters should turn off and switch LED should stay on after power up.
  • Inspect the switch LED’s – this is where the few problems that have been reported lie.
  • There are LED’s on either side of the switch. Some lights show one of these LED’s brighter than the the other. This is cosmetic and will not affect the use of the light. If the asymmetry bugs you, suggest rotating the switch board so that the LED’s are front and back rather than left and right of the switch.
  • Some switch LED’s flicker or do not come on at all. This is a known issue and the switchboard has been redesigned to hopefully avoid this. The functionality of the light and switch is not affected, only the switch LED’s.
  • If your light exhibits this behavior and the flickering is distracting, suggest turning off the switch light via the menus until a solution is devised for these first batch lights. If you are a modder, adjusting the current limiting resistor on the switch PCB seems to help, or swap them to a different color. See the excellent video posted by DJOZZ for a guide.

1 Note on installing screws. ANY time there is more than one screw mounting something, start ALL the screws and leave them loose, then get them all just barely tight, THEN tighten them.
[edit] added a few items per a post by g_sintornillos[/edit]

Lazy-R-us

The Miller
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nice post LRU!

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Lazy-r-us I think your list would be a great cheat sheet for people who are concerned about possible upcoming issues, or even as a way increase output in a perfectly operational Q8. All the pertinent info and options in a logical and easy for a novice to follow format. Well done and thanks for the effort! Excellent check list for an excellent flashlight

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