Hi Jason,
thanks for the lighted side SW tutorial.
Ordered the L6 Fet driver from MtnE a couple weeks ago with the D4 firmware. I got 10.1A after 30sec in my DMM.
Only had some 3.3K ohm resistors so I made a series cluster of 4 and shrink wrapped it. Think it was 12.8K ohm. Side SW Purple (kinda blue) LEDs are pulling about 0.5mA. Perfect at night and still see a glow indoors.
Cool. I didn’t know Richard started offering the D4 firmware for that driver.
Does it have the memory feature?
Does it have dedicated pads for a switch light or did you just run it to driver positive and negative?
Think he has the D4 listed now on a lot of DD drivers. It works well on the 2S I have to say.
Yes memory works and Batt check… 8 blinks… 4 blinks. LVP works but haven’t got too deep into the other SHtuff.
E-SW does have dedicated pads on driver but not marked + or -, so if you are going to used 1206 LEDs on the E-SW pad you gotta make sure you get it probed out. Follow your pictorial from there. Neg will show continuity to the outer ring. There was a tiny pad close to the POS wire hole that showed continuity to the + wire so I used it. No components there…
Sorry I didn’t take any pics of the driver. Richard actually has a good pic of the component side of the driver in his listing. I don’t want to use his bandwidth here.
OD of the driver was a tight fit. Had to file it slightly and after a few tries, I just hit it in with a flat punch. 
I wonder how the D4 reacts to a lighted tail SW? I would think it may not care… might give it a go if I have a 20mm board… No joy on the 20mm and I can not order anything any more due to my situation.
Oh, and for this occasion I put my SMO reflector back in. Wasn’t fond of the pattern initially wile stock or resistor mod. it is different now on turbo.
Update: Arrived
waiting for my clear side button
I’m looking for the clear side button , I can not contact Simon, can anyone help me?
answer by Simon just received, all resolved thanks.
Hey Jason
so i got Lexel driver and got eveything to work except the LED indicator.
Im using stock Convoy side switch but unsure the trace + and -
So you added a led and clear cover to see it?
The switch pcb has a common ground wire shared between led pads and the switch, so all you have to do is run power to the led through a resistor. Post #6 shows all this.
Are you using NarsilM or the older Narsil?
Only NarsilM can actually use the indicator function on the 2S drivers due to one of the mcu legs being able to switch between voltage monitoring and temperature sensing. The older Narsil could not switch and it needed 2 legs.
im confuse whether i should follow your method in this photo or the photo above 
It’s the same.
If you want switch light on all the time, do orange.
If you want “indicator” function, do the purple.
Regardless of which you choose, you need to do the red and blue.
Lexel just reminded me that on the 2S drivers you have to choose between the lvp or the indicator feature. I forgot about this. If you chose LVP then the indicator feature won’t work. You’ll have to wire it to driver power so it’s on all the time. Meaning the switch light will go out when the tail switch is off.
Or you did not solder 7135-s on the spring side and use their atmel pin to control indicator led and the driver works as a fet+1 two channel driver. But it need some change in the firmware too.
That kind of change is more in Lexels territory.
Hey JasonWW, just found your thead… I want to do something similar to your xhp50.2 with the smooth reflector…
How did you cut the reflector without messing up the finish?
Where did you get the screws to clamp down the emitter… (I have already stripped the heads of the one that came with my light)
Thanks!
Are you sure you want to go with the xhp50.2? It’s kind of lacking in output compared to the xhp70.2. I only tried it because it was new and the xhp70.2 had not come out yet.
Did you strip the head or the threads? You need the threads.
I took the stock screw down to my local Ace hardware and got a longer version. Then I screwed it in to see where the threads stop. Then I cut the screws to length.
For the reflector I used what I had handy. A wood router with a metal cutting bit. I put the reflector big side down and put tape over the small hole. Then precisely set the depth and carefully cut all around the edge. Afterwards I used a file to smooth it out. Total Old Lumens style! Lol
Here’s a pic of the reflector almost fully cut.
.
thanks for the reply…
I chose the xhp50.2 for a little more throw over the xhp70.2.
If I can get the beam to look as good as yours I will be happy…
For those curious about the best way to remove the switch cover, a pair of snap ring pliers is your best friend. I have a set with multiple tips that can apply force in both directions. This style of plier (the blue one) can both squeeze together or squeeze apart.
They are only $4.99 at Harbor Freight Tools.
These are not super high quality, but I doubt you will use them very often. Every flashlight modder should have a set.
Hi JasonWW
I may miss something ,I will try this setup just what to know how many L/KCD for L6 with 70.2+SMO+R100 with stock driver…Thanks
Back when I was using the stock driver the 70.2 wasn’t out yet. By the time it was easy to get I had already switched to the FET driver.
So L6 with 70+SMO+R100 with stock driver and KeepPower 5200mah cells = 86,250 or 587 meters.
The KeepPower cells drew 5.7A. With Liitokala’s they drew 7A so you can get a boost right there. That might push it to 90kcd or more.
When switching to the 70.2 I would expect little to no boost in output. You would mainly get a smoother hot spot.
