What did you mod today?

oops, i forgot to say i also change the mcpcb to fit the tir len, bought from kaidomain

I’ve been reading this and similar threads on here on a regular basis for the last year, but have not got involved despite doing lots of little projects and mods myself. :smiley:

So to start off, I’d like to mention my recent DQG Tiny 18650 mod, which I documented here:

Finally I got my UT02 open. It has very low output. Only 897 lumens and it drawed 2,2A from battery. It has an intensity of 74800 Cd. And throwed 547m.
I tried to heat carefully with a heat gun but I can not break the glue with a pipe wrench.
I wrapped the head neck with a thick wire and wrapped the tube with leather. Then I had a ball joint press tool for cars. I tightened it on the tube.


Then I managed to break the glue. It has a lot.


The glue sticked the PCB too So I needed to remove the reflector and the switch board. The switch board also glued a little. And the reflector ripped off the led from the MCPCB. Luckily nothing damaged so I can resolder it.


I was able to desolder the led positive wire from the switch hole so with a screwdriver I can push the PCB out through the shelf led wire hole.

Then resistor modded the driver with R100. Reflowed the led on MCPCB. And assembled it again.

After the mod it draws 3,65A from battery.
It puts out 1250 lumens
Intensity: 103000 Cd
Throw: 642m

Still under specifications but for this current draw it has pretty good numbers and the current bump is safe for both driver and led.

I was given a Nitecore EA8 Caveman some time back, the one that takes 8 AA NiMH cells, and today I got around to modifying it so it has an up-to-date emitter. It was stock with an XM-L, I put an SST-40 in it on a thicker SinkPAD to better control heat. Nitecore claimed 900 lumens in stock form, now it does right at 1400 lumens, much better! :slight_smile: The low Vf of the Luminus emitter allows it to do half again the output of an XM-L, even at the relatively low power level from the 4S2P AA’s.

Still can’t figure out why my Nitecore EC4 drains batteries like it does…

Been shuffling a lot of stuff around today, reduced my Convoy L2 with XHP-35 from 4 26650’s to 4 26350’s, also reduced my 2X Shooter from 4 18650’s to 4 18350’s. Cleared up some cells for other lights and should me about ready to mod my TR-J20. [again.] :wink:

I downgraded my Emisar D1 :

From this :

To this :

The DD SST-40 has great output, but the tint of the XM-L2 T3 7A3 CRI90 is simply gorgeous.

Thanks :slight_smile:

If it’s any help, it was soaked 12 hours in unleaded “95 octane” (that’s what it’s called here in Denmark).

Thanks!

It would be interesting if you did take a look at the moon — my testing has indicated a very subtle and slow pulsing, at about 2.4 µHz. Seems too slow and gradual to be PWM, almost like it’s stuck in an eternal ramping mode for some reason.

You measured an oscillation with a cycle of 4.82 days?

Speaking of moons and µHz, did you know the moon’s synodic period runs at 0.392 µHz?

Ugh, I screwed up the math. Was going for a 28-day cycle :wink:

I got a chance to work on a light last night: stripped solarforce parts + kiribaru p60 neck, nichia 219b 9080 4500k, led4power quad mcpcb & ld4-b4 driver, orange/red tail light, and pflexpro lens.




I bought a Convoy S2 XP-L HI SMO version with 8x7135 driver and a Convoy S8 XM-L2 T5 5B with 6x7135 driver and mixed them.
I wanted an XP-L HI SMO reflector S8 so the internals exchanged in both. The S8 got one more 7135 because it has heat fins. And added a 3 led green lighted tailcap and flashed Biscotti in it. I really like this intense green color. They look in real life as on the pics.


Tomorrow I finish the S2. It will be the property of a young boy relative of my friend so I remove some 7135s and leave 4 on the driver. The firmware remains the old 3/5 and I will add light blue lighted tailcap like in my old S2+ grey:

He will be very proud of it among his friends I think :smiley:

Really nice mods, both vinte77 & ZozzV6 ! :slight_smile:

Looks awesome ZozzV6!

How did you make the lighted tailcaps?

Thank you!

Thanks!

Are they expensive to make?

You can buy 3 ring boards from Oshpark fro a little more than 2$ and you can buy the leds and resistors for cents on ebay.

LOL, accidentally fixed your joke for you. :stuck_out_tongue:

Today I finished the S2-S8 internals swap and added light blue lighted tailcap to the S2.
I removed 2 7135s of the 6 because 4 is enough for a 5 year old kid. The tailcap contains a big switch PD68 board and white leds. The rubber boot is a light blue from Simon’s aliexpress store.




Can you show modification to the driver for blue taillight to work!