Unless you hang here on BLF (or CPF) it is not that easy to know.
Ironically, four pieces of 5000 mAh Ultrafire cells seem to be able to power a 20000 lumen Ultrafire Skyray King clone, so 12000 lumens should be no problem…. 
Aren’t you over reacting a bit? Lol
Still think the same?
Luckily it was not a faulty MF01. Phew…
I Just received the Nichia from the last sale. Seems like a great light with good weight too it. All the LEDs are working well. Although I can’t see anymore from looking side on at the light on turbo during the middle of the day. I am using button top 30qs, they went in fairly easy.
Here is a solution for those wanting access to low mode to reserve the night vision.
Always put on low mode before you switch off the light. This mode will memorised on low and when you need turbo, you can access by double clicks.
Not the best method but im happy with it for now. . I suspect they will amend the driver to have low mode direct access.
Or you can unscrew the tailcap half turn to cut power, then screw on to power again. Light indicates when power is cut off for convenience. Light will turn on in low mode as well. Also not really elegant… but this works as well.
your method is even better 
Hello, I have recieved both versions, but in XP-G2 there is a big space between the lens and the besel - it easily accepts envelope end. In Nichia version I was able to insert “only” A4 sheet. Now this makes me wonder 2 things:
1. Is waterproofness really there
2. If I try to screw the besel is there a chance to damage the LEDs?
Any thoughts?
if you shake the light the lens should not moove
the o-ring is on the edge so to stick in there a bit is normal
if the lens moves you can sand down the bezels back a bit,
I had to do this on the prototype, but it should be fixed in the production lights
The TIR lense is seperate from the glass lens, so you should be okay with turning the bezel to tighten or loosen it. Still, it might be best to push down on the glass lens as you turn the bezel to make sure it does not turn and rip the domes off the leds.
Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?
Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?
Thanks a lot Lexel and JasonWW
The claw type from a Ali Express store work well on 2S
Too bad they stopped selling the claw type
So which can you now recommend for this application ?
Just have to test other supplier which ones show the claw in product page
I guess that ensuring that VDD-GND and OUT-GND voltage is below 6V will work…
No, they simply work beyond their ratings.
Am I wrong? Possible, I am still on newbie level…
…but if so, why? Looks for me that AMC is still within limits with first LED working as a voltage drop.
PS. Forgot the grounding of the first capacitor 
Of course I can use Zener diode + resistor on VDD instead of using LED, for better safety but I wanted to show most simplistic design.
your picture wont work, basically you run XHP70s at 6V
you cant simply use a wire in between the LEDs of a multi Emitter LED to run a hypothetical half battery voltage
the VDD is run from the MCU and with a LDO it is usually 5V, but somehow under our dual channel drivers also the FET comes in play with current spikes
Vdd is usually with a PWM signal from the MCU and is 5V
then they sit simply between the LED minus and ground with the other 2 connections
The problem with the 8.4V is simply a voltage spike generated when the FET get activated