Lock out mode is 6 clicks !
4 clicks changes between Tactical mode (momentary) and regular modes ramping .
I’ve had some odd button sticks, but generally if I double click the light it will stop whatever it is doing wrong or loosen the tail cap. Not anything to complain about at all.
I suppose this is the first and only time we will see your D1 in stock form. 
What are your plans?
You are so right, changes already made, it now makes 1552.5 at start and 1400.7 at 30 seconds on an Aspire 18350, 1735.35 at start and 1604.25 at 30 seconds on a Sony VTC5A.
Spring bypasses top and bottom, swapped in an XP-L W2 1D on a 20mm Noctigon.
Love how it lost .4A but gained some 300 lumens in the trade. 
I like the W2-1D :+1: Very Nice!
Fitted the long tube from my D4 onto the D1 so now it takes a 20700A cell and makes 1783.65 lumens at start… interestingly enough it does the same 1604.25 at 30 seconds as the VTC5A.
Hey db, thanks for the lumen number… look like Sony vtc5a give advantage… Your lumen number are pretty accurate???
My light box was calibrated with 25 ANSI rated lights, so it should be very close. Any new light I get that has ANSI ratings I always check against it and the variances are +/- from moon to Turbo, usually very close.
Richard (RMM) and Tom E as well as robo819 all use light boxes made by the same people as mine is, so at least 4 of us are in sync and we all show similar numbers to the ANSI rated lights for the most part.
Edit: One thing that is an obvious difference is the cells we use. I try to use the latest and greatest cells for maximum output, because max is how I like it. The manufacturer’s do not necessarily use, say, the Sony VTC5A, so the numbers can vary on this alone.
Edit II: Might ought to add, I swapped the MOSFET to an Vishay SIRA20DP and it is now making 1818.15 lumens at start on the 20700A cell.
Thanks db… you are the best. I am using Sony vtc5 on my d4. What kind of lumen am I getting?? Thanks.
What emitters does yours have?
Mine was set up with XP-G2 and I swapped in Nichia 219C, Nichia 319A, XP-L HI and finally XP-E2 green. Somewhere in the Emisar D4 thread of TK’s all the results are posted. 
I am a fan of cool white. Xpl hi v3 6500k… I just use medium mode and the light didn’t get warm.
I love this light, so I bought another d4 in xpg2 dedome and d1 sst40 dome on… ( from a modder)…
Careful with the SST-40, it can’t take direct drive FET from a top cell, it’ll blow bond wires. (at around 9.6-9.7A)
Contactcr asked:
I’m curious as well.
Coupon code doesn’t work for me for some reason… “Warning: Gift Voucher is either invalid or the balance has been used up!”
Hm… my plan is to stick an SST40 in my D1. Waiting on my shipment of SST40s from Mountain Electronics.
So I gather I shouldn’t run an SST40 equipped D1 on a VCT5. What about 30Q?
Ok… so far it’s working fine… I have a d1 with the sst40 dedome running Sony vtc5a…
I wouldn’t do spring bypasses or use thick wires, leave some resistance in place so the emitter can survive.
You have to use the code while on the shopping cart page. It doesn’t work if you are already on the checkout page.
If you leave the stock D1’s fet you’ll be OK whatever battery you use , even VTC5A (lower ir i know) .
Is there something unusually fragile about the 7135 chips after they have been added to driver boards?
I’ve now had three of them fracture when flashlights were dropped a few feet onto a wooden floor.
Each time, the chip on the spring side of the driver apparently took the impact transmitted from battery tube to retaining ring to the side of the chip closest to the edge, and the 7135 broke.
A couple of these were cracks without any obvious separation until I poked at the chip after the third one broke and I could see the problem. But they fell apart under slight pressure.
These were drivers where I”d just tightened the retaining ring down and it pressed on the 7135(s) on the spring side of the driver
I consider this my fault for not notching the retaining ring to go around the component, which I used to do regularly.
(discussion and pictures of that in prior thread: Driver retaining ring that clears Nanjg 105c in Convoy S series? )
Lesson learned. Now I have to learn how to solder these itty bitty components, which so far I’’ve tended to mess up.
Or buy new drivers ….