Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

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JasonWW
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mortuus wrote:

come on simon make a new version of the l6 that takes either flat or not its too confusing what batteries will work or not.

It’s not Simon’s fault. Cree made the xhp70 only run at 6 or 12 volts, not 3 because it would pull too many amps at 3. Then a single lithium battery doesn’t have enough voltage. You have to use 2 in series to get the voltage up high enough.

I think what you really need to ask for is some type of standards in batteries. It’s like the wild wild west with lithium batteries. No standard sizes or shapes like D cell or AA. So we just have to do our best to find cells that fit our needs.

Don’t forget, there is also this little Jaxman series adaptor you can use.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46821

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I’m running the XHP70.2 6V with 3×26650 or 4×26500 cells at 9.8 amps with the HX1175b1 buck driver. Wink

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I feel I made a very wise and expedient decision. I traded my L6vn for a K60vn!

Emailed Vinh just in time,,,the repaired L6vn was in the shipping line! I made a great deal as always w/ Vinh. I negotiated a low enough price and threw in my Orbtronic 26650 for some collateral!!I am only paying $30 more after throwing in the brand new Orbtronics.

Without having the K60, I believe this to be true and a much better light than the L6vn!

Wise and expedient decision on my part!

-Love control rings,,,way better UI than forward clicky for L6vn!!!

-Bigger light, better heat sinking-less heat.

-Bigger head/reflector more defined hot spot

-Only 500 less lumen and 65Kcd more

-Has a holster

-K60vn Will NOT be top heavy like the L6vn. That light only weighed 7 grams more than my TK75vn and felt like a pound heavier because it was TOP HEAVY!

I enjoyed being on this thread,,,but I am happy w/ my decision!

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JasonWW
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I think the main appeal of the L6 is that it only costs $65. It’s a lot of light and high quality for the money.

The K60 is what, $180? I’m sure it’s good, but it’s in a very different price bracket.

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Good for you wolfdog. K60vn is $240. L6vn is $150.. you will get the stock UI with k60vn..

Anyhow, I think l6 is a good light for what it is. Price and performance..

TWN
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Just got my L6 couple weeks ago. Added R100 resistor.
Using Aspire battery, only have 2 pieces.
Want to dedome the led and put SMO reflector on it.
Already purchase that, thankfully.

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L6 with TA Narsil driver is really nice, love ramping but you can set up the UI in many ways

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TWN wrote:
Just got my L6 couple weeks ago. Added R100 resistor.
Using Aspire battery, only have 2 pieces.
Want to dedome the led and put SMO reflector on it.
Already purchase that, thankfully.

Do you mean slicing the dome off? I’ve heard that dedoming the xhp70 is very difficult.

Also, be prepared for a noticable lumen drop. After slicing my 70 I actually went back and bought a new emitter to keep the dome.

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Newlumen wrote:
Good for you wolfdog. K60vn is $240. L6vn is $150.. you will get the stock UI with k60vn..

Anyhow, I think l6 is a good light for what it is. Price and performance..

You guys are right,,,for the price the L6 is a good deal.

Thanks NL. One thing you have to understand,,,,,,,,,,,,The price Vinh has listed and what Capolini/Wolfdog pays are Two different things!!!

I always negotiate and Vinh is very fair,,,actually there is no negotiation! I give him an offer and he accepts it.

I threw in My Orbtronic 26650 5200mah/15A and got the K60vn for…..$200. Thumbs Up

,$60 more than I paid for the L6vn

Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity. 

Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them. 

                                                                   WOLFDOG 

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wolfdog1226 wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Good for you wolfdog. K60vn is $240. L6vn is $150.. you will get the stock UI with k60vn..

Anyhow, I think l6 is a good light for what it is. Price and performance..

You guys are right,,,for the price the L6 is a good deal.

Thanks NL. One thing you have to understand,,,,,,,,,,,,The price Vinh has listed and what Capolini/Wolfdog pays are Two different things!!!

I always negotiate and Vinh is very fair,,,actually there is no negotiation! I give him an offer and he accepts it.

I threw in My Orbtronic 26650 5200mah/15A and got the K60vn for…..$200. Thumbs Up

,$60 more than I paid for the L6vn
Or what, his Corvette sleeps with the Fishes? Shocked

Facepalm Thumbs Up

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TWN
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Lexel wrote:
L6 with TA Narsil driver is really nice, love ramping but you can set up the UI in many ways

I do like TA driver, but the shipping almost same the price.
It’s not easy choice for me. Ordering couple isn’t worth for me.
JasonWW wrote:
Do you mean slicing the dome off? I’ve heard that dedoming the xhp70 is very difficult.

Also, be prepared for a noticable lumen drop. After slicing my 70 I actually went back and bought a new emitter to keep the dome.


Yes, want to perform that actually.
I’m aware the side effect after the procedure.
Still contemplating about that. Want to purchase some XHP70 and XHP70.2 for spare.
Or like you, to keep the original set.
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Slicing xhp70.2 dome is a yes or no?
I thought it was a no but I have read differend things here.

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zeremefico wrote:
Slicing xhp70.2 dome is a yes or no?
I thought it was a no but I have read differend things here.

From what I’ve heard, there is not a big gain in lux like with the older 70. I haven’t tried it myself.

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I’d like to improve the overall output as well as the throw of my convoy l6 5000k flashlight. What’s the easiest way to do this? Swap emitters to .2 with a smooth reflector, swap the driver, or just do a resistor mod?

I’m leaning toward the driver replacement but I don’t know which driver to chose. I have a D4 and it’s my favorite UI of all my lights so something like that would be preferable…

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ledalex wrote:
I’d like to improve the overall output as well as the throw of my convoy l6 5000k flashlight. What’s the easiest way to do this? Swap emitters to .2 with a smooth reflector, swap the driver, or just do a resistor mod?

I’m leaning toward the driver replacement but I don’t know which driver to chose. I have a D4 and it’s my favorite UI of all my lights so something like that would be preferable…


Is it currently stock? If so then swapping to the 70.2 will give you no gain. The Smo reflector is relatively cheap and will improve the throw. A swap to a fet driver will give you the biggest gains in output. You’ll get about 11 to 12 amps with a fet driver and Good batteries. Lexel is currently making the Texas Avenger driver with narsil which is very nice. Also, Richard of mountain Electronics is offering a FET driver. He even has an option to load the D4 ramping firmware on it.

So I would do those first. Then if you still want more output you can swap to the 70.2 and get 17 to 18 amps. It also helps to get a smoother beam pattern.

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JasonWW wrote:
ledalex wrote:
I’d like to improve the overall output as well as the throw of my convoy l6 5000k flashlight. What’s the easiest way to do this? Swap emitters to .2 with a smooth reflector, swap the driver, or just do a resistor mod?

I’m leaning toward the driver replacement but I don’t know which driver to chose. I have a D4 and it’s my favorite UI of all my lights so something like that would be preferable…


Is it currently stock? If so then swapping to the 70.2 will give you no gain. The Smo reflector is relatively cheap and will improve the throw. A swap to a fet driver will give you the biggest gains in output. You’ll get about 11 to 12 amps with a fet driver and Good batteries. Lexel is currently making the Texas Avenger driver with narsil which is very nice. Also, Richard of mountain Electronics is offering a FET driver. He even has an option to load the D4 ramping firmware on it.

So I would do those first. Then if you still want more output you can swap to the 70.2 and get 17 to 18 amps. It also helps to get a smoother beam pattern.

It is currently stock. I will order the 30mm FET+7135 Driver from Richard and have him flash it with the D4 firmware for 35 cents extra (lol). How hard is it to replace the driver?

I assume I just remove the two screws next to the LED (are they screwed into the retaining ring or is unscrewing them unnecessary?). Then, I unscrew the retaining ring on the head by opening pliers so there’s some sort of friction on the inside of the ring that will allow me to grip it and twist? And then I can just desolder the wires from the old driver that are going to the LED and e switch and solder those onto the new driver? Is it really that simple or am I in over my head?

Is there a recommended cheap soldering iron and type of solder I should buy? My old radioshack iron got lost in my move years ago.

Herb Tarlek wrote:
mortuus wrote:
yes that is the question, does anyone here using those type of flat batteries without having to add this solder?

I use the flat top Liitokala 26650s the “naughty” way with a button magnet and nylon washer between the batteries.

Unless the drivers don’t have a spring anymore (too lazy to look back through the thread to look) the flat top has no problem connecting at the top to the driver.


I have those Liitokalas and I just put a small flathead under the flat top and bent the metal upwards enough that the batteries now work in series without the nuisance of a button magnet. No soldering necessary. FYI, I’m not sure if I have genuine Liitokalas but it should work either way.

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ledalex wrote:

It is currently stock. I will order the 30mm FET+7135 Driver from Richard and have him flash it with the D4 firmware for 35 cents extra (lol). How hard is it to replace the driver?

I assume I just remove the two screws next to the LED (are they screwed into the retaining ring or is unscrewing them unnecessary?). Then, I unscrew the retaining ring on the head by opening pliers so there’s some sort of friction on the inside of the ring that will allow me to grip it and twist? And then I can just desolder the wires from the old driver that are going to the LED and e switch and solder those onto the new driver? Is it really that simple or am I in over my head?

Is there a recommended cheap soldering iron and type of solder I should buy? My old radioshack iron got lost in my move years ago.


The 1 or 2 screws by the led prevent the mcpcb from rotating when you tighten the bezel.

The driver retaining ring has 2 holes in it. I use snap ring pliers to fit in and easily turn it. Or you can take needle nose pliers and grind the tips down to a smaller diameter.

The rest is all correct. 4 wires to unsolder from the old and solder to the new.

You want to use rosin core wire for electronics. Typically 60/40 tin/lead Sn/Pb, roughly 3% flux.

The cheap soldering irons are okay, but not very high quality or very powerfull usually. Before I bought my digital soldering station I used this model for many years.
http://www.frys.com/product/4825190
and still have it as a backup. Pretty cheap with adjustable heat and 50w of power. The 3 o’clock knob position is good for circuits and max is good for automotive wires. So not a lot of adjustment range, but still nice.

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i am using that exact battery no problem with contact.

mortuus wrote:
oke have to ask again, these purple efest work for l6 ? i think i read something about most flat 26650 cant make contact….

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Efest-26550-4200mAh-Purple-LI-MN-50AMP-IMR-Battery-2-Pack/262680214558?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

its so damn hard to find batteries that fits your budget and that can ship to sweden, aliexpress and other chinese sites is a no go for me… blah…

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JasonWW wrote:
The cheap soldering irons are okay, but not very high quality or very powerfull usually. Before I bought my digital soldering station I used this model for many years. http://www.frys.com/product/4825190 and still have it as a backup. Pretty cheap with adjustable heat and 50w of power. The 3 o’clock knob position is good for circuits and max is good for automotive wires. So not a lot of adjustment range, but still nice.

Jason, what digital soldering station do you currently use?

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The Hakko 888 is hard to beat. I got mine when they still had analog but the digital ones now are even nicer.

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Is TS100 good solder? I’m tempting to buy one of that.

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DB Custom wrote:
The Hakko 888 is hard to beat. I got mine when they still had analog but the digital ones now are even nicer.

Thanks, Dale. Unfortunately the Hakko is not in my budget. I’m thinking of replacing a 30+ year old Weller soldering “gun”.
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I got a Yihua 995d.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RL9YWQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=150...

I mainly needed a hot air station so I can remove chips and maybe do reflows, but decided to get a combo unit. Paid about $95 with a 4 year warranty. It also switches to Fahrenheit. Murica! Lol

Hakko is definitely good stuff, but I don’t solder everyday, just every now and then.

No idea on the TS100.

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I also bought a combo unit and am really glad I did. Learning to use hot air reflow has changed my modding world Smile I went even cheaper than the Yihua above though, with this 872+. Mine’s branded “Zeni” but the same hardware can be found with lots of different names printed on it, including Yihua. I’ve had it almost exactly a year now, used it quite a lot in that time, and its been awesome.

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Anyone here with FET driven XHP70.2 and SMO reflector that has measured his L6 for throw? What kind of numbers can this thing push in this configuration?

Ordered P2 4000k from Kaidomain so i am not patient enough, i need to know these things now Big Smile

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BobbyMK wrote:
Anyone here with FET driven XHP70.2 and SMO reflector that has measured his L6 for throw? What kind of numbers can this thing push in this configuration?

Ordered P2 4000k from Kaidomain so i am not patient enough, i need to know these things now Big Smile


I got 830m, but with a P2 1D.

A 4000k tint will be less lumens.

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JasonWW wrote:
BobbyMK wrote:
Anyone here with FET driven XHP70.2 and SMO reflector that has measured his L6 for throw? What kind of numbers can this thing push in this configuration?

Ordered P2 4000k from Kaidomain so i am not patient enough, i need to know these things now Big Smile


I got 830m, but with a P2 1D.

A 4000k tint will be less lumens.

Why it will be less lumens when it is still a P2 bin ?

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The lower tint puts it at the bottom of the power bin, seems like. All the warmer colors are lower output than the cooler colors of same power bin. Just how it is.

I have a smooth reflector on the way for my L6, should have some new numbers on it soon. It’s making 9200+ lumens with the original OP, so that should change, just a question of how much.

This is one of the reason’s Vinh’s lights cost what they do, he buys a LOT of emitters and cherry picks the best ones out of the bin group.

JasonWW
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giorgoskok wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BobbyMK wrote:
Anyone here with FET driven XHP70.2 and SMO reflector that has measured his L6 for throw? What kind of numbers can this thing push in this configuration?

Ordered P2 4000k from Kaidomain so i am not patient enough, i need to know these things now Big Smile


I got 830m, but with a P2 1D.

A 4000k tint will be less lumens.

Why it will be less lumens when it is still a P2 bin ?


It may measure more now that I think about it. My lux measurements have always been pretty low compared to people like Matt at Adventure Sport Flashlights. Here is a comparison of my L6 and his L6. Both our lux meters are very close in calibration, yet his lux measurements are higher. We did the exact same mods and we both doubled the lux, but his numbers are higher.

My current lux with the 70.2 and dome still on is 172 kcd or 830 meters. If Matt did the same as me, his numbers might be closer to 200 kcd which is almost 900 meters. I’m not too concerned about numbers though, I have a lot of power and just the right amount of hot spot size to throw that suits my needs.

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Thanks for the info Jason and emarkd…..those are nice stations, but you guys are doing stuff way above my pay grade!

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