Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Got no hairs to spare :slight_smile: … I ordered, got shipping notification,I’ll check the PO box couple of times a week for the next few weeks.

Ramping and mode set operation are completely different UI's. A multi click sequence in mode sets would get confused with fast single clicks, so it's avoided. Ramping is all about press&hold or single clicks so 2X and more fast clicks is not so easily confused, unless you wanted to very quickly do ON/OFF's or OFF/ON's and make up your own strobe or something.

Q8 s on the move from Banggood. I ordered 9/7, shipped 9/29. Thanks to the BLF team that made this possible!

Yeah! Mine is shipping! :smiley:

Just a tip on how one can make Q8 a little bit more comfortable to use. The underside area where you hold index finger can feel a bit sharp when operating the flashlight. If the 3 furthest fins had stopped halfway only to go half the circumferences, that underside area would be smoother. Olight Sr Mini Intimitator seems to be designed that way. The cooling fins stop there to make a smooth area.

As a quick fix for that I used a 17 cm long x 2.5 cm wide strip of Gorilla tape.

Banggood told me mine has shipped, order date 09/09/2017 09:00:44

How does everyone track? I tracked at Fedex.com and I get a generic ‘information received’ for a few days now.
Assuming it has left their facility, I feel comfortable expecting them in two weeks…

I think the answer to that is probably “space”. That’s a big component. What would you do with all those switches in there anyway? There is a tailswitch board with a single switch on it though, designed to allow you to turn the taillight off. It mounts inside the spring.

Even if you found a micro sized dip switch, you would still need to run several tiny wires from the driver near the head, to the tail cap. Then how would you be able to twist the cap and keep the wires connected? There is no way. That’s why you don’t see them in tail caps.

I just received an email, haven’t tried tracking. I actually ordered without tracking (free shipping)

Soon flashlights will need to have a locking key like some lasers :slight_smile:
This way you can go from 0 to some lumens, then turn the key and unlock insane mode.

When ramping mine up its like when i reach the top there are 1 “larger” and a smaller flash of the beam, dunno what it is but it dont bother me that much, just saying.

I got a shipping notice from Banggood! Ordered on 9/9. Tracking number doesn’t show up in 17Track.net at first, but then if I click the FedEx link it does come up. BG order says it’s “Priority Air Mail” with an ETA of 10/22 (How is that “priorty air mail”? Though I expect it will deliver sooner.) We’ll see if I win the Chinese lottery in regards to all of these reported issues.

-Garry

Yes dont get worked up by all the people who do something checking tracking or post how to check it.
It will come when it comes :slight_smile:

That is the idea, so you know you are at the end and can stop pressing, so not to enter config or lockout :slight_smile:

I thought about that, and it's true a little, unless you had a UI lockout for 1 second after entering mode-lockin. Personally I think any system that changes its UI on its own at time where the user might be expected to provide input, should always lockout input long enough for the user to react or be sure that the change has occurred. A great example is the android screen rotation. I'm continually frustrated by pressing the wrong thing, right after the screen inadvertantly rotates. With a 1.5 second or whatever timer on the lcokin, there's going to be an edge where the user has a second thought, thinks "I can still click up one more mode", but misses it and clicks off by accident instead. If you have a 1 second UI lockout that won't happen, and also by the time that is over the user will be very sure that he's in mode-lockin now and will know he'll need to click twice to bump up. To fix the final race, you'd need the single-click lockout to last just a touch longer than the double-click lockout, to avoid a double click where the first one is during the lockout and the second one registers.

I also don't find the double click that confusing with regular clicks, since it does the same thing, it's just that the first one gets ignored when in lock-in. And it's no more confused with mode advance clicks than the off click is. Mode advance doesn't exist at that point anyway as it stands.

Anyway, as for long click off, what bistro is supposed to (when e-switch works again, soon) is always be off when the switch is pressed. That's has its own ups and downs (and is easy to change) but one up is that even long press off, turns the light off instantly. The wait is for locking it off. So you still have to spend your time to turn it off, but you do get instant turn off.

Number: RG61XXXXX61CN
Package status: In transit
Destination country: Malaysia
Origin country: China
2017-09-30 20:13 Bulk acceptance packet processing center in Guangzhou, has received send

Powered by www.17track.net

Cheers! :beer: :beer:

Banggood got word that I am modding again so they shipped my first two of three Q8’s. :smiley:

Needless to say i have not read the manual ( as always )
And also factoring in i cant read those small letters with my old eyes.

Check post 2, can be enlarged :wink:

I went for a 2 hour hike in dense forest with a friend and a Q8 last night. My friend was very impressed with the ramping UI, and got the hang of it right away.

The Q8 is nicely balanced. I hold it at waist level with my thumb near the switch, forefinger near the tripod hole, and my other three fingers around the battery tube.

The beam is perfect for seeing down the trail and has just the right amount of spill to light the sides, too.

The four 30Q cells were at 3.8V after 2 hours of low and mid modes, and a good amount of turbo in open areas.

For those who are waiting for their Q8s, stay strong. It’s worth the wait! :partying_face:

Hank, you might be over-thinking this. It would not be usual to use a “conductive” grease simply to ensure good electrical contact in this sort of application (not bolting together heavy electrical switchgear, where metal-loaded pastes might be appropriate, but only when skilfully applied).

What is normal is a “dielectric grease”. The contact surfaces readily displace it, the grease then keeps out air and other gases that might corrode the contact interface.

Use of true “dielectric grease”, usually with a pure silicone base, is important when preparing e.g. high power RF connections, high integrity crimp connections, automotive connectors etc. or even just packing outdoor satellite TV connectors for long-term reliability. In high power RF. or high voltage applications, specialist dielectric grease is essential, the dielectric properties being much better than air it prevents arcing or corona discharge, and continues to do this reliably, being stable under most environmental conditions.

Superlube, Nyogel, etc. are fine here. They are not a true “dielectric grease”, being synthetic hydrocarbon based, but I think they are perfectly appropriate here.

See Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease

Edit: Compatibility with O-rings is important for us, this is where e.g. plain mineral based greases, or even Vaseline, may be problematic, and silicone based greases to, if silicone O-rings are suspected, rather than e.g. ordinary nitrile ones…