I thought about that, and it's true a little, unless you had a UI lockout for 1 second after entering mode-lockin. Personally I think any system that changes its UI on its own at time where the user might be expected to provide input, should always lockout input long enough for the user to react or be sure that the change has occurred. A great example is the android screen rotation. I'm continually frustrated by pressing the wrong thing, right after the screen inadvertantly rotates. With a 1.5 second or whatever timer on the lcokin, there's going to be an edge where the user has a second thought, thinks "I can still click up one more mode", but misses it and clicks off by accident instead. If you have a 1 second UI lockout that won't happen, and also by the time that is over the user will be very sure that he's in mode-lockin now and will know he'll need to click twice to bump up. To fix the final race, you'd need the single-click lockout to last just a touch longer than the double-click lockout, to avoid a double click where the first one is during the lockout and the second one registers.
I also don't find the double click that confusing with regular clicks, since it does the same thing, it's just that the first one gets ignored when in lock-in. And it's no more confused with mode advance clicks than the off click is. Mode advance doesn't exist at that point anyway as it stands.
Anyway, as for long click off, what bistro is supposed to (when e-switch works again, soon) is always be off when the switch is pressed. That's has its own ups and downs (and is easy to change) but one up is that even long press off, turns the light off instantly. The wait is for locking it off. So you still have to spend your time to turn it off, but you do get instant turn off.
Number: RG61XXXXX61CN
Package status: In transit
Destination country: Malaysia
Origin country: China
2017-09-30 20:13 Bulk acceptance packet processing center in Guangzhou, has received send
I went for a 2 hour hike in dense forest with a friend and a Q8 last night. My friend was very impressed with the ramping UI, and got the hang of it right away.
The Q8 is nicely balanced. I hold it at waist level with my thumb near the switch, forefinger near the tripod hole, and my other three fingers around the battery tube.
The beam is perfect for seeing down the trail and has just the right amount of spill to light the sides, too.
The four 30Q cells were at 3.8V after 2 hours of low and mid modes, and a good amount of turbo in open areas.
For those who are waiting for their Q8s, stay strong. It’s worth the wait! :partying_face:
Hank, you might be over-thinking this. It would not be usual to use a “conductive” grease simply to ensure good electrical contact in this sort of application (not bolting together heavy electrical switchgear, where metal-loaded pastes might be appropriate, but only when skilfully applied).
What is normal is a “dielectric grease”. The contact surfaces readily displace it, the grease then keeps out air and other gases that might corrode the contact interface.
Use of true “dielectric grease”, usually with a pure silicone base, is important when preparing e.g. high power RF connections, high integrity crimp connections, automotive connectors etc. or even just packing outdoor satellite TV connectors for long-term reliability. In high power RF. or high voltage applications, specialist dielectric grease is essential, the dielectric properties being much better than air it prevents arcing or corona discharge, and continues to do this reliably, being stable under most environmental conditions.
Superlube, Nyogel, etc. are fine here. They are not a true “dielectric grease”, being synthetic hydrocarbon based, but I think they are perfectly appropriate here.
Edit: Compatibility with O-rings is important for us, this is where e.g. plain mineral based greases, or even Vaseline, may be problematic, and silicone based greases to, if silicone O-rings are suspected, rather than e.g. ordinary nitrile ones…
Nice story goshdogit, I made an aluminum short post with a taper head SS screw to go in the tripod mount for my M6, it indexes the light and lets me know, blind, where the switch is. Also makes it super easy to hold as it simply can’t slip out of your hand with the finger hooked around the short post.
I have two Solarforce lights that came with a standoff for mounting on the tripod, using them on the lights for the same indexing purpose as my M6…
You can see that the Solarforce piece has a hole through it sideways for using a small screwdriver or Allen wrench to torque it down.
Why are people acting like they have never ordered something online? I suppose it could be true for some people, but lord have mercy! And I doubt that people care much to read about the fact that Joe Schmoe’s light moved from the back of the warehouse to the front… bfd.
korpzgrinda, did you not notice how many people signed up at BLF just to get in on this group buy? A LOT! For the vast majority of those new folks it really is a BFD!
You are right, I can truly understand the excitement. It’s just these posts that are basically copy/pasting their tracking info… it feels like spam at this point. I would much rather see posts that show the lights actually arrived. Not trying to rain on anyone’s parade, though!
I have a small story and a request… :person_facepalming:
So last night before going to sleep I had already turned off every light in the house and my eyes had already adapted to the dark conditions, I was thinking in revisiting that moonlight setting at level 3 which the last time seemed a little bright for my taste and wanted it a little lower so I put the light under the blankets so the flashes don’t interfere with my night vision and proceeded to adjust the moon setting to number 2, I let it finish and take it out from under the blankets, I was thinking that maybe its going to be too dim, so I look down to look and press the button to look at the leds when they light up in moonlight level 2, press the button… BOOM!!! FULL FRIGGING TURBO to the eyes!!! OWWWW!!! That hurts!!! :cry: Bye bye night adapted vision…!
In my defense I had taken sleeping pills and was too sleepy to realize my stupidity… :confounded:
So here is my request… Can you program the Q8 to go to lowest mode first after setting the moonlight as default instead of turbo, so morons like me don’t get blinded? :zipper_mouth_face:
Thanks, I still love this light!!! :partying_face:
Dale - that would be great! My time is somewhat limited now. Been working on trouble-shooting the flickery, finicky switch LED issue, ugh - it's taking hours and I feel at this point nothing obvious so I'm in over my head and don't want to mess up the only sample I have - the 10 Q8's I had or looked at are fine, so had one of the reported ones shipped to me. Plus firmware issues/Q's, support, etc.
I'm tossed now between a flaky PCB board (switch/LEDs) and the LED's, but looking more like the PCB. Might have to bring it into work, and if we got time, look at it there under a stereo microscope or something.
Couple of things here as possible explanations, ways to use it:
if you last were on turbo by ramping to it, then it's your last saved level, so 1 click will go turbo
from OFF, if you are not sure what the last saved level is, don't just click, do a click&hold - it will start ramping up from moon
hand cup the bezel if any doubt
unfortunately moon is not ever saved as a last level, so if you click&hold to moon but turbo is your saved last level, clicking off from moon, and single click the light back on will go turbo
the lowest ramping level is a 3 value, so 3 is the lowest you can save as a last level. Believe me, I frequently intentionally ramp up from OFF, then down to minimum, and click it OFF so it's saved - great for keeping on the night stand this way for getting up in the middle of the night.
The intention is here is don't let moon level or 2X click to turbo effect your last saved level. Again, I believe it was suggested here in this thread and I implemented it. I tried my best to implement what was suggested, but many times detailed specifics are lacking so I do my best to implement the intent.
What I should have done was allow ramping down to end at moon and not the last ramping level. If I did this, then moon level could be saved - that could be an improvement.
I own two Pedco Ultrapod II miniature tripods. I use them to hold a GoPro camera, an iPhone, and flashlights.
I’m happy to report that the Ultrapod II works great with the Q8! The mount clears the cooling fins and the bolt doesn’t bottom out in the Q8’s hole.
The Velcro strap allows mounting to objects up to about 3” in diameter. I’ve used cable ties to secure it to larger diameter objects. You could probably replace the Velcro strap with a longer one if needed.
I drilled some 1/8” holes in my other Ultrapod II and have used screws to mount it to rafters, wall studs, etc.
It’s strong enough to hold the Q8 at 90 degrees to the post.
I realize this may read like a paid endorsement, but I’m just a big fan of this tripod. :partying_face:
Pedco makes a few other models, but I like this one best.
If PCB suspect, might be dodgy plating of through-holes/vias. Had no end of bother with this once in an important application when PCB supplier made a seemingly straightforward process change (from electroless copper to “shadow” process). Micro-sectioning of test coupons from all delivered PCBs had to be (re) instituted and a lot of scrap resulted.
Had previously been done as standard at goods-inward, but we never saw any problems before, so dropped it. Then got bitten on the bum :person_facepalming:
It is possible to do your own micro-sectioning with simple equipment (epoxy resin, fine saw, fine abrasive paper, and a microscope), but you also need to know what you are looking for.
Repeated temperature cycling under power would eventually cause most dodgy vias. to fail eventually.
I’m not real sure what you’re saying here but are you suggesting the amount of time you have to click up the levels should be increased to 1 1/2 seconds before locking in? It sounds like you think it should be 1 second. I believe the current time is 1.2 seconds. Can you clarify for me what you mean?
