Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

The ramping firmware is actually so user friendly that you probably shouldn’t even read the manual first. Pick it up and play with it and you’ll find it instinctive and effortless, you’ll be wishing all your lights were like it in no time at all. :wink:

The X5 requires a 14500 and is a really nice small light that acts like a much larger one. They could keep the 14500 in play forever for just this one light as far as I’m concerned. :slight_smile: Then again, my triple MagLite AA’s also use it so it’s just a big bonus right there! The fact that the Klarus Mi7Ti also uses the 14500 format is just icing on the cake. Manker’s T01 Godmes is the e-switch equivalent of the X5, very neat little light. And I happen to know of another light that is yet to be seen that utilizes this 14500 and should be a big hit…. but I digress…

The Jaxman M2 modified with a Zener FET driver and with an XHP-50.2 is a very solid reason, making 3000 lumens in a pen-light style with a pocket clip.

Seems there are plenty of reasons for the 14500 to remain in popularity. :wink:

If I’m not mistaken, The Miller has some thoughts using this smaller cell as a follow up to the Q8… reckon we’ll see! :slight_smile:

Diffuser made from a vitamin bottle.

With just a 3-4mm wider tube an 18500 would have fitted (also 14500), and been so much better. But I’ve said that before…

Not sure they are so popular, very limited choices, but once you start putting them side-by-side, yes, the slimmer dia. counts. Nevertheless, a torch that takes these would be so much better if it could take AAs and Eneloops as well. With a buck driver and 4s, no problem, 1s with buck/boost (my Olight S15 has this and works very well), fine, but the X5 seems to have painted itself into a restricted corner. Great torch though, love it.

Thanks for the ideas, I’ve been tryin to think of some type of index bump, to make finding switch easier, as well.

Am I missing something about the 4xAA format? There are already plenty of lights in that category. Are you just asking for one that pulls a lot more current than the ones available now?

I think you might be able to get to about 2500 lumens from a 4xAA Eneloop light, which would be kind of impressive. It probably couldn’t run for more than a couple of minutes at that output, without heat becoming a concern. And from my experience with Eneloops, they get damaged by heat (losing capacity) more easily than lithium-ion batteries.

So, while this would make an impressive light, it probably wouldn’t be any different from existing 4xAA lights except for short bursts.

I got bout 6 Q8's laying around and a modded MT03 II doing about 25-27K lumens. I'd say it's a lot brighter than the mildly modded 6,500 Q8's, but then again the MT03 II has about $65 added in parts.

I think you have missed some context. We were discussing e.g. a mini-Q8, x4 AA /14500 etc. which has sort-of already been done by Manker MK41 (single emitter only), and seems pretty good, and rather sophisticated, programmable moon, etc. etc. 1500 lumens on AA, 2000 on 14500. As well as several other respected manufacturers who have had similar for a few years. (but not with 14500 compatibility) Then we digressed into more esoteric stuff.

I think it would have to be something rather special, maximising potential of 14500 for high current (but they are really nothing special, even the best, not remotely comparable with x4 18650, so I doubt much more is realistic) to improve much on e.g. the MK41, and as you said there are already several other such torches from other makes, in that form-factor, which are also pretty decent. I’m not sure it’s a direction with much potential, other than perhaps amazing output for a very short period (4x the BLF X5, that would wow me), or low price. However done, I think a more sophisticated driver would be necessary unless just a simple 4p 14500 torch (which I personally don’t want, it also needs to take AAs and Eneloops for me to bite), i.e. a mini-Q8.

That’s all. And a diversion from the Q8 topic.

Tom Tom, you are a “new” member so have probably missed the topic about future projects:

A Q4 and even Q2 is debated there :slight_smile:

IF one is worried about Narsil, first, ramping is very easy and second, read the manual in post 2, just do it and think how you would like your Q8 set up
without blinkies, moon at 2, and then check how to do it, it is easy.
Funny thing, when you have it, I give it a 91+% chance you will love the ramping so much you will not change it, maybe disable blinkies.
And I even give it a higher then 50% chance you will look at all your lights thinking “I wish it had ramping like this”

So be warned, the Q8 will greatly decrease the appeal most other lights will have for you and might ruin the pleasure of a lot you already own.

Tom Tom, I have had the same objections that you are having on a 4xAA or 4x14500 light, of which the consideration that a single 18650 flashlight is in almost all aspects superior to a 4x14500 light is the most important one.

But there’s still two advantages of the 4xAA concept: it can use safe batteries, and it can be made very short. Those two still make it attractive to me, and there’s no 4xAA flashlight out there yet that was designed for minimal length (think <80mm).

(back in the days there was just one Zebralight that I really really wanted, the Q50, and it was never released :cry: )

Yes, Djozz, safe and cute
and the elusive BLF AA driver of course, in a nice bigger board because 4P size, so many SK68 lights will be modded with drivers based on that.

No disagreement. If it can take AAs , or Eneloops, or even 14500s for the bold, that’s exactly what I prefer. Just not keen on 14500 only torches.

Make it run from any of these, perhaps 4s plus buck driver, and I will be delighted, and happy to give it to my none-technical friends.

Noted. Yes I have missed a lot of things. PM to be sent.

This!

Narsil’s basics are simple:

  • Click once for ON or OFF.
  • Hold to adjust brightness.

Users overwhelmed by the manual should think of everything else as ‘advanced features.’

Get the hang of basic operation, then decide if you’d like to dig deeper.

I think most users will happily use the light as-delivered and not tweak the settings.

My light arrived in Ontario Canada.

First impressions:

A quick check does not show any machining issues, burrs, or striped screws.
I do however have switch LEDs that are different in brightness and very, very slightly off center main LEDs.

The dark smudge on the brass ring mostly came off just rubbing with my finger.
The threads of my light came over lubed if anything.

The basic stuff is very easy to use but really navigating the blinkys and setup is going to take some time.

The beam and tint looks great so far indoors during the day.
The host seems to do a great job of transferring the heat as this guy warms up real quick.

This is an excellent light, thank you to everyone in the project that got this done.

Your questions are coreect.

I made a video on how the basic ramping works. It’s very easy once you try it. Nothing to worry about.

That makes two people now who said they like long-click-off (the other one was in a PM). I should ask Hades what’s up with the weather.

I have an MF 01 in my hand now with the click ON, long click OFF. It isn't all that bad really, but not a fan of it. It goes to last mode so no direct way to get to low mode unless it's last mode used. 2X click is turbo, click when ON is next mode. Simple but if a higher mode is last mode used, you get blasted.

This MF 01 is off to VOB to make it big in the videos.

Long click off is the only UI they let into HELL

That makes more sense. I guess it basically treats the e-switch as if it’s a power switch. That’s an interesting way to do it.

I think it would mostly eliminate the benefits of using an e-switch, but it does offer a great deal of consistency. One can make all their lights behave the same regardless of switch type. The main difference would be that a common e-switch has no distinction between half-press and full-click, so the full click would need to be simulated by holding the button longer. Hence long-click-off.

This would probably translate reasonably well to a 2-stage e-switch like Nitecore uses. Gentle press to change modes, hard press to turn on or off.

Anyway, this is getting more and more off-topic. Narsil uses a single short click for on/off, and the lock-in thing is a way to enable that at the same time as fast mode selection from off. It’s basically 1 click moon, 2 clicks low, 3 clicks med1, 4 clicks med2, 5 clicks hi1, 6 clicks hi2, etc. And then 1 click for off. Except the relaxed timing allows for the first few clicks to be pretty slow if desired. And the quick level changes can be enabled again later by holding first.

It’s certainly different than how the ramping UI works, but it’s still designed well and gives very quick access to the lowest few steps and the highest step. It’s a good optimization of Werner’s UI.

Heheh I removed the cells from my MF01 and put them back in Q8 proto.
MF01 in box , will surely come in handy with Q16 stuff in the future.
Made me love Narsil even more that’s for sure!