Thanks!
It would be interesting if you did take a look at the moon — my testing has indicated a very subtle and slow pulsing, at about 2.4 µHz. Seems too slow and gradual to be PWM, almost like it’s stuck in an eternal ramping mode for some reason.
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You measured an oscillation with a cycle of 4.82 days?
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Speaking of moons and µHz, did you know the moon’s synodic period runs at 0.392 µHz?
Ugh, I screwed up the math. Was going for a 28-day cycle 
I got a chance to work on a light last night: stripped solarforce parts + kiribaru p60 neck, nichia 219b 9080 4500k, led4power quad mcpcb & ld4-b4 driver, orange/red tail light, and pflexpro lens.
I bought a Convoy S2 XP-L HI SMO version with 8x7135 driver and a Convoy S8 XM-L2 T5 5B with 6x7135 driver and mixed them.
I wanted an XP-L HI SMO reflector S8 so the internals exchanged in both. The S8 got one more 7135 because it has heat fins. And added a 3 led green lighted tailcap and flashed Biscotti in it. I really like this intense green color. They look in real life as on the pics.
Tomorrow I finish the S2. It will be the property of a young boy relative of my friend so I remove some 7135s and leave 4 on the driver. The firmware remains the old 3/5 and I will add light blue lighted tailcap like in my old S2+ grey:
He will be very proud of it among his friends I think 
Really nice mods, both vinte77 & ZozzV6 ! 
Looks awesome ZozzV6!
How did you make the lighted tailcaps?
Thank you!
Thanks!
Are they expensive to make?
You can buy 3 ring boards from Oshpark fro a little more than 2$ and you can buy the leds and resistors for cents on ebay.
LOL, accidentally fixed your joke for you. 
Today I finished the S2-S8 internals swap and added light blue lighted tailcap to the S2.
I removed 2 7135s of the 6 because 4 is enough for a 5 year old kid. The tailcap contains a big switch PD68 board and white leds. The rubber boot is a light blue from Simon’s aliexpress store.
Can you show modification to the driver for blue taillight to work!
Sure!
It has 10K resistors for each pair of led on the switch ring board and the driver has a 560 Ohm bleeder resistor soldered this way between the spring and the side ground ring of driver extended with a very tiny wire what you ant see in the soldering.
I know I ripped off the Q6 pad when removed the 7135 and cleaned with solder wick :person_facepalming:
Thanks, this is good info for beginners that want the same look but don’t know what they need to do to get that shiny new tail switch
Received a clear S2+ today from GB with the standard black tailcap.
Since i dislike the looks of a clear S2+ with a black switch i ordered a stainless switch to replace the black one.
Used some EPDM rubber to get a good grip on the old switch (and to avoid damaging) with the grip provided from the rubber it was very easy to unscrew it, inserted the new stainless one, and voila!
This is how it should be directly.
The lighted tailcap is a nice feature though, but way too dim!
Should fix that next.
Zozz, that center pad isn’t needed… the ground tab on the other side of the chip is doing the job. So in this case, you got off easy. Either way though, since you were removing the chips to downgrade power level none of those pads matter. You could have just as easily removed all the 7135’s from the spring side of the driver and if you wanted 6, stack the extra on the inside.
I bought a Nitecore “Night Officer” SRT6 with magnetic ring variable output a while back during a sale, the specs say the XM-L2 T6 does 0-930 lumens. This afternoon I pulled the thin aluminum mcpcb with the XM-L2 and fitted a 20mm SinkPAD to take it’s place, equipped with a Luminus SST-40 emitter.
I now see readings as low as 0.1035 lumens and as high as 1293.75 lumens, for simply changing out an LED. Nice!
That SRT6 always looked kind of fun. Same with the CU6. I was never able to justify the price though, since I have better smaller options for white lights and the color modes aren’t really useful for me. Still though, it’s a neat light that I’ve considered buying several times.
These days, I’m making my own RGBA stuff instead, since I found actual uses for the colors. I should probably stop procrastinating on that project…