Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

That makes two people now who said they like long-click-off (the other one was in a PM). I should ask Hades what’s up with the weather.

I have an MF 01 in my hand now with the click ON, long click OFF. It isn't all that bad really, but not a fan of it. It goes to last mode so no direct way to get to low mode unless it's last mode used. 2X click is turbo, click when ON is next mode. Simple but if a higher mode is last mode used, you get blasted.

This MF 01 is off to VOB to make it big in the videos.

Long click off is the only UI they let into HELL

That makes more sense. I guess it basically treats the e-switch as if it’s a power switch. That’s an interesting way to do it.

I think it would mostly eliminate the benefits of using an e-switch, but it does offer a great deal of consistency. One can make all their lights behave the same regardless of switch type. The main difference would be that a common e-switch has no distinction between half-press and full-click, so the full click would need to be simulated by holding the button longer. Hence long-click-off.

This would probably translate reasonably well to a 2-stage e-switch like Nitecore uses. Gentle press to change modes, hard press to turn on or off.

Anyway, this is getting more and more off-topic. Narsil uses a single short click for on/off, and the lock-in thing is a way to enable that at the same time as fast mode selection from off. It’s basically 1 click moon, 2 clicks low, 3 clicks med1, 4 clicks med2, 5 clicks hi1, 6 clicks hi2, etc. And then 1 click for off. Except the relaxed timing allows for the first few clicks to be pretty slow if desired. And the quick level changes can be enabled again later by holding first.

It’s certainly different than how the ramping UI works, but it’s still designed well and gives very quick access to the lowest few steps and the highest step. It’s a good optimization of Werner’s UI.

Heheh I removed the cells from my MF01 and put them back in Q8 proto.
MF01 in box , will surely come in handy with Q16 stuff in the future.
Made me love Narsil even more that’s for sure!

Yup, and it’s nice being able to explain the core UI in a single short sentence — click for on/off, hold to change brightness.

The X5 is a neat little light. However, when my D1 shows up I get the feeling it’ll probably turn my X5 and X6 into display pieces which don’t get used much. It’s roughly the size of the X5, but with the performance and capacity of the X6… and I plan on giving it a more advanced UI than either one.

Similarly, the Q8 will probably make both my SRK and Meteor sit idle.

I’ve tried to warn people about that too. People don’t generally “get” it until after actually trying one in person though.

Generally one gets “the new hotness” in the mail, turns it on, plays with it for a while, and thinks “wow, this is great!”… But then they look at their collection of older items, which now for some reason look curiously dull and grey, and wonders “What have I been doing with my life?”

It’s that second part which is difficult to warn people about.

My itty bitty Nitecore MT22a 2AA is I think 81mm long, 55 grams of mostly polycarbonate, and rather good (I think you also have one) That’s the way to do it. If you can come up with a x4 AA/14500 and mega-lumens in the same length, I’ll be the first in line.

Edit: I suspect Nitecore spent more on tooling for this little thing than a 500 run of a Q8, it’s not fair.

Bye, for a week.

yay, just got this from bgood, seems all 3 of my lights have shipped via fed-ex!

Congratulations, your Banggood order #…………………… has been shipped!
0rdered on the 9th sept

Well I can operate the Q8 with 3 levels:
Moon, a selected brightness and turbo.

- I chose mostly max 7135. This can I reach with ON / OFF.

- Moon by click&hold and release

  • Turbo by double click.
    Moon and Turbo are not memoriesed if you use this commands.

It doesn’t feel slow at all.

TK, I’ve got more than a few lights that already use ramping thanks to you. It’s been my de-facto standard for e-switch builds for a while now. Most of my big boss lights have your ramping and I’m hooked. Virtually everything else uses the A6 or Bistro for it’s reverse mechanical clicky. With my memory being so bad, complicated UI’s are not for me, so the advanced features just stay in the closet. :wink:

The D1 is nice, I do like it, but with no pocket clip and no Type III anodize it won’t hold up like my Eagle Eye X6’s. As far as the small form factor Li-ion’s, I use a 10280 frequently and my Texas Poker is a 3A capable 10440. The 10280’s I use will also do 3A, The Guy With No Name had them made for his Matchbox HF series. Those were pretty much the first direct drive lights with modes, in a very small form factor and originally in solid copper. Small lights that act big, not only my cup of tea but I know quite a few other’s that think so as well. Fun to have a chopped AA MiniMag doing over 2000 lumens. :wink: And I still think if you haven’t seen the Jaxman M2 doing 3000 lumens you’re missing something.

Yeah, pretty much. :wink:

Wait til you have 140 lights to pick from, you’ll realize they’re all shelf queens most of the time. :wink: There’s always a light that’s better for a situation, and you usually don’t have it. lol

As a photographer, I’m sure you know the old saying:

“The best is the one you have with you.”

I keep finding more items to drop into that sentence. :wink:

Miller, it’s come to my attention that there is some confusion about which version of narsil is being used in the Q8. On the first or second post of this thread there are still links to the older versions of narsil that were planned to be used with the Q8, namely narsil version 1.3. Is there any way to update these early posts so that they all reflect that the Q8 is using NarsilM version 1.0?

Thank you

Here's examples of the 3 different switch LED brightness's. left light: right is brighter, middle light: left is brighter, right light: even. Out of 10 Q8's, 2 had uneven brightness. The center light below is the one from feralcomprehension which had the infamous "flicker/then out" problem. Note it's a little less bright than the others, that's because I swapped the resistor to a 16.9K from the stock 15K. After many hours on this, replaced the resistor, touched the iron to the LED pads to re-melt the solder - this works may times to fix poor solder connections. After that, the problem just took longer to happen, but was still there. DEL recommended to pull all the parts off the board,clean them up, and take a look. He noticed a couple of potential issues, but at that point, I already reflowed all the parts back on the board, re-assembled, and was testing. So far now, it's 6 1/2 hours without a flicker. If it survives the night, I'd assume it's good:

Here's a couple more. The original prototype (baked one) had only one LED, so clearly looks unbalanced in room light, looks much better actually in the dark. The one on the right uses the stock 15K resistor with a blue on the left, pink on the right. The pink doesn't show well in the pic for some reason:

Close-up of the blue/pink one. It's not as bright,still using the 15K stock resistor, but I prefer it at this level anyway:

So what does this mean for the flickering/failing problem of the switch LEDs? Well, it seems fixable with no new parts, but sure helps having a hot air rework station, and some soldering skills with the required tools. Also just because this one was fixable this way, doesn't necessarily they all can be fixed the same way, but chances are good I would think. There probably was some fault in the PCB board and/or combined with the production process that resulted in some failure rate, maybe 1%, maybe higher. Having 10 Q8's that worked is actually 2% of the first 500 piece batch.

Here's the view in front of me while typing this post:

Ok, that's totally useless but seemed relative at the moment. Flashlights everywhere...

Couldn’t the Left bright/Right bright scenario simply be the switch board put in the hole in the opposite layout? I don’t know, Just asking…

The Narsil post has a link to the Narsil used.
The pic says 1,3 and yes it is actually NarsilM 1,0
If there is a pic with the key ma ual things in it I gladly change it but I haven’t seen it and all can click on Toms google drive

I think the picture showing v1.3 might be throwing people off. Maybe that image can be replaced with this one.

http://i.imgur.com/msNLgin.png

I don’t understand why do so many people despise long click off….