Anyone here with FET driven XHP70.2 and SMO reflector that has measured his L6 for throw? What kind of numbers can this thing push in this configuration?
Ordered P2 4000k from Kaidomain so i am not patient enough, i need to know these things now 
I got 830m, but with a P2 1D.
A 4000k tint will be less lumens.
Why it will be less lumens when it is still a P2 bin ?
The lower tint puts it at the bottom of the power bin, seems like. All the warmer colors are lower output than the cooler colors of same power bin. Just how it is.
I have a smooth reflector on the way for my L6, should have some new numbers on it soon. It’s making 9200+ lumens with the original OP, so that should change, just a question of how much.
This is one of the reason’s Vinh’s lights cost what they do, he buys a LOT of emitters and cherry picks the best ones out of the bin group.
It may measure more now that I think about it. My lux measurements have always been pretty low compared to people like Matt at Adventure Sport Flashlights. Here is a comparison of my L6 and his L6. Both our lux meters are very close in calibration, yet his lux measurements are higher. We did the exact same mods and we both doubled the lux, but his numbers are higher.
My current lux with the 70.2 and dome still on is 172 kcd or 830 meters. If Matt did the same as me, his numbers might be closer to 200 kcd which is almost 900 meters. I’m not too concerned about numbers though, I have a lot of power and just the right amount of hot spot size to throw that suits my needs.
Thanks for the info Jason and emarkd……those are nice stations, but you guys are doing stuff way above my pay grade!
You haven’t seen anything, yet. You should check out the price on some of the JBC soldering equipment. That’s what the pros use. Hakko is a nice alternative that is much cheaper.
If you want to see some informative videos on soldering irons as well as how to use them, you might want to check out some of Louis Rossmanns videos. They can be long, but he has a nice microscope camera so you can see exactly what he’s doing.
i did the same with my batteries using a small flathead to bend the positive terminal upward, it works great. today i decided to take some measurements:
bent pos term measured ~14.85A
to my surprise, solder blob measured ~16A
topped of the batteries to measure the new max ~18.1A!
Probably because the solder blob is making more contact, allowing the current to flow easier.
Jason, thanks for the links….you’re right, it will take some time to get through them, but they are interesting and informative.
The budget soldering station of choice is Hobbyking’s Hakko 936 clone. $23 is hard to beat and it works great if you are not a professional.
The shipping on these lights is actually pretty fast from Simon. Mine arrived several days ago much faster than I expected. Even on just two batteries it is pretty bright. However, I ordered a short tube also thinking it would add length to the tube, but I obviously didn’t see that both ends were threaded in the picture. I saw a picture of one that was longer than normal somewhere, but there is no extension tube listed on ali. Does anyone know where to get one?
I can send you an extension tube, just cover shipping. Should be able to put it in a small bubble pack for a few bucks. BUT, not sure the original driver can handle 3 cells if you’re planning on adding an extension to the 2-cell tube, of course, there are other mods you could be doing as well, like Kawi using 4 26500’s and an XHP-35….
I’ll take you up on that deal via pm.
Yes, I will be making major changes at some point in time. I had the idea to replace the driver with a h6flex, but I will have to be super creative to make it work. It will also take some removing of metal. At this point, I am just gathering ideas and options.
Still to jump onboard and buy a Convoy L6 (I must be one of the few on here lol)
Any idea if this will be updated to come with the XHP70.2 soon (direct from Convoy)
Also is the SMO reflector a worthy upgrade for outdoor use? Is that much spill lost?
I haven’t heard anything about it being offered with a 70.2.
The reflector surface has no effect on the spill lighting since all that light does not even touch the reflector. The Smo basically tightens up the corona.
Whether it’s worth buying will be up to you. I always felt the beam was a little too wide for my tastes and would like to shrink it a little and gain some extra throw.
It’s currently the right size hot spot for me. If I were to slice the dome and get a smaller hotspot, it’d be too small and throwy. So it’s all personsal preference. The SMO is cheap enough that I would get it just to try it out.
Wow, that’s a great idea for me.
Where I can bought those kind of extension tube so the flashlight can handle 4 battery in series?
DBCUSTOM has a few extra.
It would probably be much cheaper to order extension tubes from Simon (Convoy) on AlliExpress to ship to Indonesia, shipping would be quite high from here as the USPS get’s really pricey exporting anything.
Hi guys.
My L6 seems to have died, and I can’t work out why. It’s been sat in its box for a couple of months since I last used it. I put in batteries, tried to turn it on, and nothing.
I’m not great at trouble shooting, any suggestions where to start? I’ve had the light for less than a year, and it’s probably only seen 30 minutes of actual use!
I charged the batteries before I tried to use them so no issues there. I’m using a disc with springs device I got to allow the flattop batteries to work in series.
Thanks!
Edit - I took off the tail cap and tried connecting the edge of the body to the bottom of the battery. It works! It seems the tail cap is the issue. The click is a bit spongy, but seems to be working. Can I test if the switch has failed?
Edit 2 - Broke out the continuity tester, and the tail cap switch is working
Edit 3 - I just needed to tighten the tail cap hard, and the connection is made and working. I don’t remember having the problem before. All’s well that ends well I suppose 