My Q8 (first batch) has been scheduled for delivery tomorrow . Finally 
Yes there seems to be about two weeks between email it is shipped and delivery.
But with the holidays now it is not clear at all, just think “it comes when it comes”
I’ve already got my first Q8, from the first 500 batch, but I’d like to order an “improved” Q8 from the new run. How can I get one?
So you believe it is just a solder issue? You reused the same parts? Did this pcb have the brighter led on one side, or was it just the flakey led.
Just curious of your final thoughts.
Use your code again to pre order a 2nd. It’s still working.
And like for the 1st one…be patient. 
Sorry, earlier post had more details. Yes - reused same exact parts. Didn't track the LED to the side, but this board always had one brighter than the other. It's pretty well known at this point that LED to LED variations will result in uneven brightness with them wired in parallel like this. You need one resistor per LED to get more even results.
As far as root cause, I cant say for certain -- may be some issue on the PCB that was dependent on the reflow/solder work, or could have been some contaminant that was somewhat conductive under low heat or movement, etc., or might be the quality of the reflow. Dunno for sure the exact cause, but I'd say it wasn't the parts and don't think it was the wiring or driver side, so in this area of the switch PCB and solder.
Thanks Tom
I did find your other post, after I had posted. This thread moves so fast, It’s getting hard to find things.
Got a shipping notification on the 29th.
My Q8 has now “Arrived at Sort Facility HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT”. It’s actually moving still! Maybe it will get out before the holiday?
I just touched the tip of my iron the both ends of both LEDs and behold: there was light again! 30 minutes later, no more light. Really weird. The voltage across the LEDs is also lower now than before the fix.
Edit: Took some measurements. When the LEDs work, Vf is 2.23V. 30 minutes later, it is back down to 1.5-1.6V and there is no more light. It’s like there’s a bridge which slowly rebuilds itself while the LEDs are on. I’m leaning towards “faulty” LEDs.
From my notes:
The numbering of the firmware isn’t straight and we have a name change.
Narsil NarsilM Timeline
2016-07 Narsil v1.12
2016-09 Narsil v1.1 (because only two digits blink out)
2016-09 Narsil v1.2
2016-10 fork to Narsil Triple
2017-04 Narsil v1.3
2017-05 NarsilM v1.0 (Narsil Multi, combines Narsil 1.3 and Narsil Triple) It is used in the BLF Q8.
[ yet unreleased: NarsilM v1.1 (BLF GT Buck driver support merging) ]
Yes - I had the same result, works for a bit then fails again. When they are in a failed state, check for a short from grnd to V+ coming in to the resistor - I swore the DMM indicated a short, repeatable.
So the voltage from the MCU is a steady 2.2v, but somewhere a slight short develops around the switch area which causes the voltage to drop down to 1.6v?
That’s interesting.
No, there’s about 4V coming to the switch assembly (0.2V drop from the diode is about right). The voltage across the 15K resistor is 4V minus the LED Vf. I measured as high as 2.4V on the resistor when there is no light, and 1.7V when there is light.
That means higher current when there is no light. Which makes sense if the current is going around the LED somehow. Next thing I’ll try is removing or moving one of the LEDs which seems awfully close to the switch.
think so
Okay, I see.
I don’t know very much about the chemistry involved in making an LED, but it seems like these little switch LEDs are possibly acting funny when they’re not fed enough current. Maybe they start to leak current past their internal parts. IDK. I’ll leave the technical stuff to others. Lol
I think it is (first production Narsil), the Q8 has the latest version of Narsil and Tom worked really hard getting it done and tested.
I have an earlier variant that I flashed and put in a little FandyFire Rook that uses 4 clicks to lock out… the Emisar D4 and D1 take 6 clicks to lock out! 4 clicks to the D4/D1 (thinking I was locking it out) puts it in a momentary switch tactical mode. I’m presuming the Q8 will also have the 6 click lockout? Or will it be 4 like the earlier versions?
Edit: One thing that confused me was that when I clicked the D4/D1 6 times for lockout (after doing some reading/research) the lights blink 4 times to indicate lockout. Unlocking they blink twice. Seems somehow not intuitive for the number of blinks to not match the required clicks. But now I know.
Yes, as far as I know.
I'm all confused which thread I'm in, but when the LED's failed to light up. I detected a short from grnd to V+ in to the board, to the resistor. Verified it several times. I think the full parts removal and reflow fixed it all up. The light has been fine now for 27 hours and still running.
OTSM is a nice evolution of the clicky power switch, but I doubt we can write off e-switches yet. For example, a reverse clicky power switch, even with OTSM, cannot keep the LED (s) lighted while the button is held. It’s fantastic at “click to turn on or off”, but it cannot do the other half of the Q8’s core interface — “hold to ramp”. The single most defining feature of the Q8’s UI isn’t really possible with a power disconnect switch.
The switch types can try to emulate each other, but I doubt they’ll ever by fully interchangeable. I implemented ramping on a clicky switch, but it’s not the same.
It’s probably worth mentioning that the Q8 doesn’t use a triple-channel driver.