That’s how I set up my D1 this evening Zozz, it’s surely nice to have a good useful high level that doesn’t break the bank, as it were, and still have that quick access Turbo full throttle if you so desire. Fully up to each user to set it where they want, or change it as they will. Outstanding!
As a side note, smooth and stair-step ramps have independent floor and ceiling levels.
This can be used … however. It allows something kind of like two different mode groups, ish. Will be interesting to see what people use it for.
If I add a muggle mode, that’ll have its own floor and ceiling too, with defaults which are, um, conservative.
It is getting better every hour 
I doubt many of us would want to spend more than half the cost of the flashlight to add a titanium clip.
But just for the record, they’re out there:
Note this would not fit the Emisar D4, it’s “solarforce size” and titanium would be a lot of work to grind out to fit.
Just hoping the people making the D4 notice that there’s a market.
Having visions of a D4 cyan with the blue ti clip……………… :sunglasses:
That’s the myth about Titanium, but if you can file down or sand SS you can do the same on Titanium, Believe me, I’ve done it plenty as I’m a Ti Freak! I was told “you can’t work Titanium with regular home tools” and so I used my drill and a bench mounted vise to make wedding bands from a 1” bar of surgical grade Ti. You can, if you want it bad enough! 
Titanium isn’t generally harder than steel, and by volume it’s also not stronger than steel. It’s mostly just lighter (and stronger by weight).
I wouldn’t want to mod tungsten carbide though. That stuff is really hard.
The guy that made my Texas Poker (from a 1” bar of Surgical Grade Ti I’d had for some 13 years) also took a SQUARE bar of tungsten, rounded it, then made a flashlight from the round bar. Photon Fanatic is SERIOUS about flashlight making!
Edit: Thinking on it, my Texas Poker was made from the same 1” bar I made 3 rings from…
I’ve worked with Grade 1 titanium that I could bend with my hands and inversely grade 5 titanium that I’ve destroyed tons of bits on just trying to drill or mill the stuff. A hack saw actually cuts the stuff better than any angle grinding wheel I ever tried.
Basically it depends on what alloy/grade of metal you have. Mild steel is easy to work where as D2 not so much. There are alloys of aluminum that are a real pain in the behind to work with too.
> titanium
That’s encouraging.
TK, what’s the inside diameter to aim for, for a proper clip?
Pardon me for butting in. 
I used Solarforce clips like TK’s on my D1 and D4.
I slowly opened them to about 23mm in order to just clear the battery tube’s threads. I used a Dremel with a small sanding drum.
I put the the o-ring on after the clip, and it still seats nicely inside the lip of the tail cap.
I fashioned a brass ‘wave washer’ to make up the new gap between the end of the battery tube and its contact point against the tailcap PCB. What did you use, TK?
You’re calling 6Al4V Grade 5, I used Surgical Grade, which I’ve seen called Grade 23 or 6Al4V Eli, to make wedding bands. I’ve also made my 18500 scratch build Ti/Cu Quad from 6Al4V on the lathe I have, with very little experience and very little tool selection. Bored it, threaded it, shaped it. No coolant. (I might also ad I started a fire with it!)
I used CP Grade 2 to make the Ti plate like they put in my neck. Almost had more trouble drilling and tapping mount holes in a piece of 7075 Al.
Aim to get the Ti clip, and aim to flame it Gold. That Solarforce clip is too spacey, grabs only at the contact point. I have 2 of em, don’t think they’re for the D1, needs to be more elegant in my opinion.
I found a black clip that fits the D1 ok, but the black on the Green and Gold just really doesn’t work. Still thinking about making a new tail cap with bronze and mounting a screw on Ti clip to it. Guess I’ll figure all that out later, out of funds….
Newbie question! I’ve read this entire thread and just received my D4 in the mail yesterday. What an amazing piece of tech! Question is, if I set my temp to the highest (it blinks out 70C), I shouldn’t have to worry about the light getting so hot that it might wreck any of the electronics, right? Ie, it won’t desolder or anything… Let me know your thoughts! Thanks all. I’ve only recently gone down the flashlight rabbit hole and am loving reading this and other forums and learning from everyone!
Are you wearing oven gloves
I ordered what will be my 3rd D4. I just love these things!
What flavors you have to far, and what’s on the way?
I really want to get my hands on the D1S 18350 “Dolly” version.
I don’t have the review up yet, but I got a D1S… and I have some bad news. It appears to use a slightly different tube than the D4/D1, so the shorty tube doesn’t work. I don’t know if Hank will offer a compatible shorty tube for the D1S.
It looks fabulously ridiculous in 18350 form though. It’s kind of awesome. I hope there will be a compatible tube.
