Hello, I have recieved both versions, but in XP-G2 there is a big space between the lens and the besel - it easily accepts envelope end. In Nichia version I was able to insert “only” A4 sheet. Now this makes me wonder 2 things:
1. Is waterproofness really there
2. If I try to screw the besel is there a chance to damage the LEDs?
The TIR lense is seperate from the glass lens, so you should be okay with turning the bezel to tighten or loosen it. Still, it might be best to push down on the glass lens as you turn the bezel to make sure it does not turn and rip the domes off the leds.
Am I wrong? Possible, I am still on newbie level…
…but if so, why? Looks for me that AMC is still within limits with first LED working as a voltage drop.
PS. Forgot the grounding of the first capacitor
Of course I can use Zener diode + resistor on VDD instead of using LED, for better safety but I wanted to show most simplistic design.
your picture wont work, basically you run XHP70s at 6V
you cant simply use a wire in between the LEDs of a multi Emitter LED to run a hypothetical half battery voltage
the VDD is run from the MCU and with a LDO it is usually 5V, but somehow under our dual channel drivers also the FET comes in play with current spikes
Vdd is usually with a PWM signal from the MCU and is 5V
then they sit simply between the LED minus and ground with the other 2 connections
The problem with the 8.4V is simply a voltage spike generated when the FET get activated
My MF-01 broke after few hours (edit: 2 days from delivery, few hours of use). One of the banks of diodes always turn on, on full power, as soon as I screw the tailcap. Can’t be turned off other way than unscrewing the cap. other banks are working normally.
edit: @Lexel: So what if I just use Zener diode to ensure the voltage won’t exceed 6V? AMC won’t need to drop 6V …
All the MCUs we use are rated for 5V, in a side switch light we need to keep the standby current low and a Zener diode mod draw a few mA, while the LDOs usually have 20-30uA
we do not overdrive the AMCs at the Vdd side or the LED side when the light is on
Vdd comes with 5V from the MCU and the LEDs eat up 6-7.5V from the supply voltage
but when we turn the light off still the full battery voltage lays over the LEDs and the AMCs
some AMCs have then a small leak current which makes the LEDs glow
DEL and Toykeeper looked at the sudden death of AMC7135s in high power 2S lights that draw 30-35A, it usually happen when the driver switches from AMCs to FET, so there is some sort of spike which damages the AMCs
The xp-g3 looks good to me on video. but i heard nichia is even better…. hard decision… not sure if i want to just let that extra 400ish lumens go and just get the nichia or the max 12000 lumen from xp-g3
As a rule of thump: You can only detect a difference over 10 percent if the same lamps are side by side. In normal usage it’s even more.
12000 × 10% = 1200
The Nichia can be 1200lm “darker” before you see differnces.
For me it would be a no-brainer. Go high CRI.