Ordered mine, does this flashlight have low voltage protection? I need to get some 14500 batteries and want to know which to get, protected or non-protected IMR
Ordered mine, does this flashlight have low voltage protection? I need to get some 14500 batteries and want to know which to get, protected or non-protected IMR
Surely it can’t, if it also runs off an AA?
I don’t know about the LT Tool AA, but there are AA/14500 flashlights that have LVP, and when using Li-Ion batteries blink and/or turn OFF when voltage is lower than 2.8V.
I don’t think the Tool AA is designed to handle 14500… but i’m getting confused with all those lights as to which does and which doesn’t.
It is Please take a look at the first post with the specs
The question that remains is really about protected or unprotected batteries! That and reverse polarity protection
I’ll probably stick the unprotected Sanyo UR14500P that I have.
It is curious: I was checking about the specs of some LT lights, including the Lumintop Prince Mini (AA/14500), about these “protection” aspects, and so far I couldn’t find any reference to them…
I believe the 18650 lights will probably have LVP and RPP, but these AA/14500…I don’t know!
On high some protected cells will either trip there protection or provide less current… ?
IIRC on the Prince mini, the RPP is implemented as a raised ring around the positive contact on the driver. The cell raised top has to reach inside to make contact whereas the flat negative end wouldn’t. Flat top cell don’t work. I think i had to use some KeepPowers or a magnet. I’ll check tomorrow. Not sure how it will work on the Tool AA.
Edit: i checked my Prince mini and it has the raised ring around the positive contact on the driver. I use KP protected 14500 800mAh (black w silver label) which are BT but the raised bit is not even tall enough and i need to add a thin round magnet to get it working. Obviously those protected cells do work – when you help them a bit.
If it works the same on the Tool AA, be prepared to fumble a bit with whatever 14500 you’ve got. Only ‘very raised top’ cells will work as is.
On high some protected cells will either trip there protection or provide less current… ?
IIRC on the Prince mini, the RPP is implemented as a raised ring around the positive contact on the driver. The cell raised top has to reach inside to make contact whereas the flat negative end wouldn’t. Flat top cell don’t work. I think i had to use some KeepPowers or a magnet. I’ll check tomorrow. Not sure how it will work on the Tool AA.
Edit: i checked my Prince mini and it has the raised ring around the positive contact on the driver. I use KP protected 14500 800mAh (black w silver label) which are BT but the raised bit is not even tall enough and i need to add a thin round magnet to get it working. Obviously those protected cells do work – when you help them a bit.
If it works the same on the Tool AA, be prepared to fumble a bit with whatever 14500 you’ve got. Only ‘very raised top’ cells will work as is.
Thanks for the info patmurris! Didn’t know about that characteristic!! The Prince mini is a very nice light
Well, the only thing I can wait is that the Sanyo UR14500P fit well on the LT Tool AA, without magnets or other tricks. Those are the only Li-Ion cells I have for this light…
Suddenly I see myself surrounded by some AA/14500 lights, but somehow I am “excited” and curious to get the LT AA on my hands
Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.
The LED in the AA Tool is XP-L
If the AA Tool is anything like the AA Maratac, it will have PWM also. The Maratac offers a Nichia LED.
The “low” mode of the AA Tool is 7 lumens, similar to the AA Maratac (made by Lumintop)
yes the AA Tool officially takes 14500, so does the AA ReyLight Pineapple (also made by Lumintop, and like the Maratac, offers a Nichia).
The Pineapple also has PWM. The Pineapple has a sublumen low that the Maratac and AA Tool lack.
NO the AA tool does not have Low Voltage Cutoff.. Like the Pineapple, the AA Tool calls for protected cells.
The LED in the AA Tool is XP-L
If the AA Tool is anything like the AA Maratac, it will have PWM also. The Maratac offers a Nichia LED.
The “low” mode of the AA Tool is 7 lumens, similar to the AA Maratac (made by Lumintop)
yes the AA Tool officially takes 14500, so does the AA ReyLight Pineapple (also made by Lumintop, and like the Maratac, offers a Nichia).
The Pineapple also has PWM. The Pineapple has a sublumen low that the Maratac and AA Tool lack.
NO the AA tool does not have Low Voltage Cutoff.. Like the Pineapple, the AA Tool calls for protected cells.
“this flashlight need to use protected battery and there is no low voltage protection”
Thanks for the heads up on this jon-slider!
My only question: is it that hard for Lumintop and Banggood (as the seller, in this case) to include that info in the specs sheet?!!! Why do we have to be digging for this kind of – IMPORTANT – information when it was supposed to be on the specs?
Also, is it that hard for LT to make these lights with LVP? Unless it was made only for alkaline batteries – which is not -, a flashlight like this, that can use Ni-MH and Li-Ion, should have (in my humble perspective) Low Voltage Protection and Reverse Polarity Protection. Mandatory!
It is annoying to know this, I must say! I’ll probably have to buy 14500 protected batteries to use it with full power…
correct
be a good consumer, when you buy stuff, you have to accessorize and buy stuff for your stuff
buy protected cells for your inexpensive unprotected Tool
and or buy unprotected and take personal responsibility for monitoring battery level
and or buy lights with built in protection
and or buy Lithium primaries
and or buy Eneloops
and or buy Alkaleaks,
so you can buy new lights when they leak
If the light have no problems with the lenght, I have not problem in buy 14500 protected. 18650 are very common and realiable, but there are not a lot invested in create top quality 14500 (I think), for 14500 I always prefer protected batteries.
In any case, probably I will use my tool AA (when arrive) with NiMH P. Eneloop of fujitsu (the most reliable for NiMH) or with Primaly Lithium. For Li-Ion there are nice and compact EDC 18650 today
It’s not really compact, the same size as a T10.
Low mode should be lower, tint is really cold white, with hints of green around the spot and some purple hue in the outer spill (due to AR glass I would guess).
High mode on Eneloop is not impressive, lower than my T10.
On 14500 it’s impressive, I think this one will run on li-ion
The clip is not sturdy (same quality than AAA tool), but is sturdy enough to stay on the light firmly.
Tailcap is good, the clicky switch is precise and gives a good feedback.
I will not use the magnetic tailcap, because I don’t like AA twisties.
It should find a place in my EDC rotation, after a Nichia swap
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
So, 14mm aluminum LED board, non DTP.
I don’t know what the SMD component is, but I guess it’s just a shunt (0 ohm)
Anyway, much better now with the 219C 5000K
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
It seems very similar to the Pineapple Reylight driver. Seems to have a little “top” to make contact with the battery, right?
Did you use 14500 with or without button top? Any “rattle” with the battery?
It’s not really compact, the same size as a T10.
Low mode should be lower, tint is really cold white, with hints of green around the spot and some purple hue in the outer spill (due to AR glass I would guess).
High mode on Eneloop is not impressive, lower than my T10.
On 14500 it’s impressive, I think this one will run on li-ion
The clip is not sturdy (same quality than AAA tool), but is sturdy enough to stay on the light firmly.
Tailcap is good, the clicky switch is precise and gives a good feedback.
I will not use the magnetic tailcap, because I don’t like AA twisties.
It should find a place in my EDC rotation, after a Nichia swap
Thanks for the review, just saved me money.
Don’t need another AA Flashlight with cold tint that needs an emitter upgrade.
Was hoping they would be at least a neutral white and also think you are spot on about the AR glass making things worse.
Later,
Keith
—
“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain
…
After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards
..
It seems very similar to the Pineapple Reylight driver. Seems to have a little “top” to make contact with the battery, right?
Did you use 14500 with or without button top? Any “rattle” with the battery?
That was with a button top 14500, and the battery rattles a bit, tolerance is a bit lose in diamter
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
Today I received the Tool AA, and quite unfortunately (for Lumintop) today I also received a Utorch UT01 (my first), both lights have a Cree XP-L led and both are suitable for use with NiMh and alkalines. I got them for a comparable price.
Let me start with this: nowadays the only reason for me to buy a AA format flashlight is for use with Eneloops, since the Aspire 18350 has become available I hardly see rationality for 14500 lights anymore unless the capacity will at least double. In that perspective here’s my impression:
So I placed an Eneloop Pro cell in both flashlights, both were at 1.33 V. Here’s how they look side-by-side on a white wall, ToolAA on the right:
That output difference is so huge!!! the ToolAA is roasted by the Utorch, nothing can make up for that anymore, mind that the Tool AA is a brand new light with a Cree XP-L, how hard can it be?! In numbers, with these reasonably charged up Eneloops, at 30s: 248lm for the UT01 (flat regulated. Very nice!), 84lm for the ToolAA (slowly dropping). Swapping the batteries did not change anything. Btw, the tint of the Utorch is quite a bit better (plain white with a hint of rose) than the tint of the Tool (slightly greenish yellow).
Waving the two lights in front of my phone camera shows the low frequency PWM (<1000Hz) of the ToolAA, while no PWM can be seen with the UT01.
Conclusion: Lumintop listen, I really like the form factor of the ToolAA but your boost drivers are lightyears behind the competition, the ToolAA is a nice upgrade for an ancient Ultrafire C3, but even with its XP-L it has nothing to do with a modern flashlight.
Left to right: Utorch UT01, JaxmanE2L (my EDC, 1200lm of 97CRI), Lumintop ToolAA, Ultrafire C3
Thanks Djoss for the info…Sadly I bought this light because I wanted some AA flashlight. And I have the Utorch UT01 but if your picture is right I will bury this light and never buy a light from lumintop anymore. This is disgusting.
Thanks Djoss for the info…Sadly I bought this light because I wanted some AA flashlight. And I have the Utorch UT01 but if your picture is right I will bury this light and never buy a light from lumintop anymore. This is disgusting.
I would not call it disgusting, Lumintop has work to do! I like almost all of their designs, now they need to get their electronics in order.
How is the runtime on NiMH? It might not be bad if it does not pull much on the cell?
How does it do on 14500?
Mine should show up soon…
I will measure current and calculate efficiency tonight, not expecting anything special there. I’m sure the ToolAA will be useful if not much light is needed, but for that I can use my old C3 too.
I would not call it disgusting, Lumintop has work to do! I like almost all of their designs, now they need to get their electronics in order.
Is it from me or they have the same kind of UI in almost all their small lights? L-M-H, no moonlight, nothing “outside the box” from some years now?
I don’t have any LT, this will be my first, but their look always get my attention, but then, reading the specs, I usually refrain from buying as they seem to be very similar.
I’m not saying that they should have lots of things – I normally prefer simple ones – but their lights deserves a better “electronic” part as you say!
Maybe the cooperation with BLF for the FW3A can open their “horizons” and maybe they import some of the “savoir-faire” from here!
This or the next week I’ll receive the Sofirn SF14 and SP10A and gonna compare them with the LT Tool AA, just to perceive how the brands are doing things…
Surely it can’t, if it also runs off an AA?
I don’t know about the LT Tool AA, but there are AA/14500 flashlights that have LVP, and when using Li-Ion batteries blink and/or turn OFF when voltage is lower than 2.8V.
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
Fair point…
I don’t think the Tool AA is designed to handle 14500… but i’m getting confused with all those lights as to which does and which doesn’t.
It is
Please take a look at the first post with the specs 
The question that remains is really about protected or unprotected batteries! That and reverse polarity protection
I’ll probably stick the unprotected Sanyo UR14500P that I have.
It is curious: I was checking about the specs of some LT lights, including the Lumintop Prince Mini (AA/14500), about these “protection” aspects, and so far I couldn’t find any reference to them…
I believe the 18650 lights will probably have LVP and RPP, but these AA/14500…I don’t know!
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
On high some protected cells will either trip there protection or provide less current… ?
IIRC on the Prince mini, the RPP is implemented as a raised ring around the positive contact on the driver. The cell raised top has to reach inside to make contact whereas the flat negative end wouldn’t. Flat top cell don’t work. I think i had to use some KeepPowers or a magnet. I’ll check tomorrow. Not sure how it will work on the Tool AA.
Edit: i checked my Prince mini and it has the raised ring around the positive contact on the driver. I use KP protected 14500 800mAh (black w silver label) which are BT but the raised bit is not even tall enough and i need to add a thin round magnet to get it working. Obviously those protected cells do work – when you help them a bit.
If it works the same on the Tool AA, be prepared to fumble a bit with whatever 14500 you’ve got. Only ‘very raised top’ cells will work as is.
Thanks for the info patmurris! Didn’t know about that characteristic!! The Prince mini is a very nice light
Well, the only thing I can wait is that the Sanyo UR14500P fit well on the LT Tool AA, without magnets or other tricks. Those are the only Li-Ion cells I have for this light…
Suddenly I see myself surrounded by some AA/14500 lights, but somehow I am “excited” and curious to get the LT AA on my hands
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
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I picked up a couple……
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Lots more pics on the Lumintop site now.
http://www.lumintop.com/tool-aa.html
Woke up to this one day…
Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.
The LED in the AA Tool is XP-L
If the AA Tool is anything like the AA Maratac, it will have PWM also. The Maratac offers a Nichia LED.
The “low” mode of the AA Tool is 7 lumens, similar to the AA Maratac (made by Lumintop)
yes the AA Tool officially takes 14500, so does the AA ReyLight Pineapple (also made by Lumintop, and like the Maratac, offers a Nichia).
The Pineapple also has PWM. The Pineapple has a sublumen low that the Maratac and AA Tool lack.
NO the AA tool does not have Low Voltage Cutoff.. Like the Pineapple, the AA Tool calls for protected cells.
see
https://www.banggood.com/LUMINTOP-Tool-AA-XP-L-HD-550LM-3Modes-Portable-...LED-Flashlight-AA14500-p-1195234.html?p=IO0117468906201403!A&utm_medium=Martin&utm_content=chendongling
“this flashlight need to use protected battery and there is no low voltage protection”
Thanks for the heads up on this jon-slider!
My only question: is it that hard for Lumintop and Banggood (as the seller, in this case) to include that info in the specs sheet?!!! Why do we have to be digging for this kind of – IMPORTANT – information when it was supposed to be on the specs?
Also, is it that hard for LT to make these lights with LVP? Unless it was made only for alkaline batteries – which is not -, a flashlight like this, that can use Ni-MH and Li-Ion, should have (in my humble perspective) Low Voltage Protection and Reverse Polarity Protection. Mandatory!
It is annoying to know this, I must say! I’ll probably have to buy 14500 protected batteries to use it with full power…
Thanks again for the heads up!
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
correct
be a good consumer, when you buy stuff, you have to accessorize and buy stuff for your stuff
buy protected cells for your inexpensive unprotected Tool
and or
buy unprotected and take personal responsibility for monitoring battery level
and or
buy lights with built in protection
and or
buy Lithium primaries
and or
buy Eneloops
and or
buy Alkaleaks,
so you can
buy new lights when they leak
Yeah, I’m more like this kind
I try to, but sometimes they don’t “spec” it
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
If the light have no problems with the lenght, I have not problem in buy 14500 protected. 18650 are very common and realiable, but there are not a lot invested in create top quality 14500 (I think), for 14500 I always prefer protected batteries.
In any case, probably I will use my tool AA (when arrive) with NiMH P. Eneloop of fujitsu (the most reliable for NiMH) or with Primaly Lithium. For Li-Ion there are nice and compact EDC 18650 today
Got mine
It’s not really compact, the same size as a T10.
Low mode should be lower, tint is really cold white, with hints of green around the spot and some purple hue in the outer spill (due to AR glass I would guess).
High mode on Eneloop is not impressive, lower than my T10.
On 14500 it’s impressive, I think this one will run on li-ion
The clip is not sturdy (same quality than AAA tool), but is sturdy enough to stay on the light firmly.
Tailcap is good, the clicky switch is precise and gives a good feedback.
I will not use the magnetic tailcap, because I don’t like AA twisties.
It should find a place in my EDC rotation, after a Nichia swap
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
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Does it have the raised ring around the positive contact on the driver which mandates button top cells?
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
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219C swap
So, 14mm aluminum LED board, non DTP.
I don’t know what the SMD component is, but I guess it’s just a shunt (0 ohm)
Anyway, much better now with the 219C 5000K
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
It seems very similar to the Pineapple Reylight driver. Seems to have a little “top” to make contact with the battery, right?
Did you use 14500 with or without button top? Any “rattle” with the battery?
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
Thanks for the review, just saved me money.
Don’t need another AA Flashlight with cold tint that needs an emitter upgrade.
Was hoping they would be at least a neutral white and also think you are spot on about the AR glass making things worse.
Later,
Keith
“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain
…
After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards
..
Big Sky Country
That was with a button top 14500, and the battery rattles a bit, tolerance is a bit lose in diamter
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Thanks – X3-!! Mine will arrive the next days! Gonna see how the cells I have work !
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
OL Contest 2019
GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
thank you for the extra info
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Tja….
Today I received the Tool AA, and quite unfortunately (for Lumintop) today I also received a Utorch UT01 (my first), both lights have a Cree XP-L led and both are suitable for use with NiMh and alkalines. I got them for a comparable price.
Let me start with this: nowadays the only reason for me to buy a AA format flashlight is for use with Eneloops, since the Aspire 18350 has become available I hardly see rationality for 14500 lights anymore unless the capacity will at least double. In that perspective here’s my impression:
So I placed an Eneloop Pro cell in both flashlights, both were at 1.33 V. Here’s how they look side-by-side on a white wall, ToolAA on the right:
That output difference is so huge!!! the ToolAA is roasted by the Utorch, nothing can make up for that anymore, mind that the Tool AA is a brand new light with a Cree XP-L, how hard can it be?! In numbers, with these reasonably charged up Eneloops, at 30s: 248lm for the UT01 (flat regulated. Very nice!), 84lm for the ToolAA (slowly dropping). Swapping the batteries did not change anything. Btw, the tint of the Utorch is quite a bit better (plain white with a hint of rose) than the tint of the Tool (slightly greenish yellow).
Waving the two lights in front of my phone camera shows the low frequency PWM (<1000Hz) of the ToolAA, while no PWM can be seen with the UT01.
Conclusion: Lumintop listen, I really like the form factor of the ToolAA but your boost drivers are lightyears behind the competition, the ToolAA is a nice upgrade for an ancient Ultrafire C3, but even with its XP-L it has nothing to do with a modern flashlight.
Left to right: Utorch UT01, JaxmanE2L (my EDC, 1200lm of 97CRI), Lumintop ToolAA, Ultrafire C3
link to djozz tests
Thanks Djoss for the info…Sadly I bought this light because I wanted some AA flashlight. And I have the Utorch UT01 but if your picture is right I will bury this light and never buy a light from lumintop anymore. This is disgusting.
I would not call it disgusting, Lumintop has work to do! I like almost all of their designs, now they need to get their electronics in order.
link to djozz tests
How is the runtime on NiMH? It might not be bad if it does not pull much on the cell?
How does it do on 14500?
Mine should show up soon…
I will measure current and calculate efficiency tonight, not expecting anything special there. I’m sure the ToolAA will be useful if not much light is needed, but for that I can use my old C3 too.
link to djozz tests
Is it from me or they have the same kind of UI in almost all their small lights? L-M-H, no moonlight, nothing “outside the box” from some years now?
I don’t have any LT, this will be my first, but their look always get my attention, but then, reading the specs, I usually refrain from buying as they seem to be very similar.
I’m not saying that they should have lots of things – I normally prefer simple ones – but their lights deserves a better “electronic” part as you say!
Maybe the cooperation with BLF for the FW3A can open their “horizons” and maybe they import some of the “savoir-faire” from here!
This or the next week I’ll receive the Sofirn SF14 and SP10A and gonna compare them with the LT Tool AA, just to perceive how the brands are doing things…
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
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L-M-H is okay, IMO but should be better spaced…
1 lumen is enough for L
50 lumens will suit any everyday situation for M
200 lumens as a bonus for H
Basically, this is Thrunite UI on the T10 and it’s why I keep mine in my Pocket.
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