Pre production sample [Review] Astrolux MF-01 4x18650 flashlight supplied by Banggood

The TIR lense is seperate from the glass lens, so you should be okay with turning the bezel to tighten or loosen it. Still, it might be best to push down on the glass lens as you turn the bezel to make sure it does not turn and rip the domes off the leds.

Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?

Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?

Thanks a lot Lexel and JasonWW

The claw type from a Ali Express store work well on 2S
Too bad they stopped selling the claw type

So which can you now recommend for this application ?

Just have to test other supplier which ones show the claw in product page

I guess that ensuring that VDD-GND and OUT-GND voltage is below 6V will work…

No, they simply work beyond their ratings.


Am I wrong? Possible, I am still on newbie level…
…but if so, why? Looks for me that AMC is still within limits with first LED working as a voltage drop.
PS. Forgot the grounding of the first capacitor :slight_smile:

Of course I can use Zener diode + resistor on VDD instead of using LED, for better safety :slight_smile: but I wanted to show most simplistic design.

your picture wont work, basically you run XHP70s at 6V
you cant simply use a wire in between the LEDs of a multi Emitter LED to run a hypothetical half battery voltage

the VDD is run from the MCU and with a LDO it is usually 5V, but somehow under our dual channel drivers also the FET comes in play with current spikes
Vdd is usually with a PWM signal from the MCU and is 5V

then they sit simply between the LED minus and ground with the other 2 connections

The problem with the 8.4V is simply a voltage spike generated when the FET get activated

If somebody is interested, below is a video of a friend - MF-01 XPG version in action:

My MF-01 broke after few hours (edit: 2 days from delivery, few hours of use). One of the banks of diodes always turn on, on full power, as soon as I screw the tailcap. Can’t be turned off other way than unscrewing the cap. other banks are working normally.

edit:
@Lexel: So what if I just use Zener diode to ensure the voltage won’t exceed 6V? AMC won’t need to drop 6V …

All the MCUs we use are rated for 5V, in a side switch light we need to keep the standby current low and a Zener diode mod draw a few mA, while the LDOs usually have 20-30uA

we do not overdrive the AMCs at the Vdd side or the LED side when the light is on
Vdd comes with 5V from the MCU and the LEDs eat up 6-7.5V from the supply voltage
but when we turn the light off still the full battery voltage lays over the LEDs and the AMCs
some AMCs have then a small leak current which makes the LEDs glow

DEL and Toykeeper looked at the sudden death of AMC7135s in high power 2S lights that draw 30-35A, it usually happen when the driver switches from AMCs to FET, so there is some sort of spike which damages the AMCs

The xp-g3 looks good to me on video. but i heard nichia is even better…. hard decision… not sure if i want to just let that extra 400ish lumens go and just get the nichia or the max 12000 lumen from xp-g3

The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color

LINK to maukka’s test
CRI Ra : 92
CRI R9 : 69

As a rule of thump: You can only detect a difference over 10 percent if the same lamps are side by side. In normal usage it’s even more.
12000 × 10% = 1200
The Nichia can be 1200lm “darker” before you see differnces.
For me it would be a no-brainer. Go high CRI.

Honestly that beamshot of the building is just stunning. Not the sheer output, but the tint is so nicely captured (at least on my screen). To me it is definitely a perfect picture of what a nice tint should result into. And this has nothing to do, if I’m not mistaken, with high CRI.

I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens… I really wish someone near me has both 219C and XpP-G3 so I can make my decision easier lol. Does anyone know the tested lumens on the XP-G3?

I have a Haikelite MT03 and I know MT03 is more of a flood light and MF01 is a bit more throwly. Just wondering if I use them side by side would I able to have the “Holy Shhh this MF01 Nichia is bright…”

I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one… Thanks

The differnce from 9 to 12 klumens is visible with the eye when you ceiling bounce
but in use its as bright as the Nichia has about the same lux number because of the smaller LED die size

So the Nichias beam is tighter
The tint of the LEDs in my Nichia is very nice pure white
Also the Nichia has almost no visible tint shift within the beam