Just have to test other supplier which ones show the claw in product page
I guess that ensuring that VDD-GND and OUT-GND voltage is below 6V will work…
No, they simply work beyond their ratings.
Am I wrong? Possible, I am still on newbie level…
…but if so, why? Looks for me that AMC is still within limits with first LED working as a voltage drop.
PS. Forgot the grounding of the first capacitor
Of course I can use Zener diode + resistor on VDD instead of using LED, for better safety but I wanted to show most simplistic design.
your picture wont work, basically you run XHP70s at 6V
you cant simply use a wire in between the LEDs of a multi Emitter LED to run a hypothetical half battery voltage
the VDD is run from the MCU and with a LDO it is usually 5V, but somehow under our dual channel drivers also the FET comes in play with current spikes
Vdd is usually with a PWM signal from the MCU and is 5V
then they sit simply between the LED minus and ground with the other 2 connections
The problem with the 8.4V is simply a voltage spike generated when the FET get activated
My MF-01 broke after few hours (edit: 2 days from delivery, few hours of use). One of the banks of diodes always turn on, on full power, as soon as I screw the tailcap. Can’t be turned off other way than unscrewing the cap. other banks are working normally.
edit:
@Lexel: So what if I just use Zener diode to ensure the voltage won’t exceed 6V? AMC won’t need to drop 6V …
All the MCUs we use are rated for 5V, in a side switch light we need to keep the standby current low and a Zener diode mod draw a few mA, while the LDOs usually have 20-30uA
we do not overdrive the AMCs at the Vdd side or the LED side when the light is on
Vdd comes with 5V from the MCU and the LEDs eat up 6-7.5V from the supply voltage
but when we turn the light off still the full battery voltage lays over the LEDs and the AMCs
some AMCs have then a small leak current which makes the LEDs glow
DEL and Toykeeper looked at the sudden death of AMC7135s in high power 2S lights that draw 30-35A, it usually happen when the driver switches from AMCs to FET, so there is some sort of spike which damages the AMCs
If somebody is interested, below is a video of a friend - MF-01 XPG version in action:
The xp-g3 looks good to me on video. but i heard nichia is even better…. hard decision… not sure if i want to just let that extra 400ish lumens go and just get the nichia or the max 12000 lumen from xp-g3
The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color
The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color
LINK to maukka’s test
CRI Ra : 92
CRI R9 : 69
As a rule of thump: You can only detect a difference over 10 percent if the same lamps are side by side. In normal usage it’s even more.
12000 × 10% = 1200
The Nichia can be 1200lm “darker” before you see differnces.
For me it would be a no-brainer. Go high CRI.
The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color
Honestly that beamshot of the building is just stunning. Not the sheer output, but the tint is so nicely captured (at least on my screen). To me it is definitely a perfect picture of what a nice tint should result into. And this has nothing to do, if I’m not mistaken, with high CRI.
I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens… I really wish someone near me has both 219C and XpP-G3 so I can make my decision easier lol. Does anyone know the tested lumens on the XP-G3?
I have a Haikelite MT03 and I know MT03 is more of a flood light and MF01 is a bit more throwly. Just wondering if I use them side by side would I able to have the “Holy Shhh this MF01 Nichia is bright…”
I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?
In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one… Thanks
The differnce from 9 to 12 klumens is visible with the eye when you ceiling bounce
but in use its as bright as the Nichia has about the same lux number because of the smaller LED die size
So the Nichias beam is tighter
The tint of the LEDs in my Nichia is very nice pure white
Also the Nichia has almost no visible tint shift within the beam
I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?
Personally I prefer less lumens if the deal / trade off is for better colors rendition, no hesitation, not even once !
I’m still using a flashlight that outputs 100 lumens in the highest mode and never found a rival to its particular beam and color rendition = high CRI seoul P4.
For outdoor activities, high CRI is a necessity for me. Less lumens but better lumens.
I hope they are using the same Nichias, second round, because that is what I just ordered. No question in my mind, as to which I prefer. But there also some sad Nichias, the ones in my first batch S41 were very disappointing to me. Maybe I need new ’specs.
I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?
In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one… Thanks
Basically, with the XP-G3 the light is going to have the cool white “LED look”. Most everyone will assume the light is from an LED source, without even seeing it. However, with the Nichias the light looks more traditional, as if from a “million+ candlepower”-style halogen spotlight. If you were to have it on, those who would not know better might expect to see a few glass bulbs in the light head, whenever you turned it off.
From the few that have splurged and bought both versions, most have said that while the XP-G3 was indeed visually brighter than the 219C, it wasn’t really that big of a difference.
I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens… I really wish someone near me has both 219C and XpP-G3 so I can make my decision easier lol. Does anyone know the tested lumens on the XP-G3?
I have a Haikelite MT03 and I know MT03 is more of a flood light and MF01 is a bit more throwly. Just wondering if I use them side by side would I able to have the “Holy Shhh this MF01 Nichia is bright…”
I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?
In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one… Thanks
I have ordered both variants and kept the Nichias. My thinking - I coudn’t see much difference in quantity of light side by side. Anyway in both cases the light is very bright at max level, but that lasts for a while, while the quality (High CRI) of the Nichias is present also on the lower levels. I also have Q8, so decided to go with high CRI on this one. Anyway tough to choose, I like both variants.
I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens…
I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?
I would advise by the same lamp with two different LEDs. Sell the unwanted.
I tried that out with the Lumintop IYP365.
The Cree is 200lm
The Nichia 219B is 140lm but CRI 90, around 4000K.
I carried both a week and used it both every time. After two days I knew I want Nichia high CRI and don’t care about less lumen in real live.
It was important to use the lights, based only on 5 minutes playing it would have been the Cree.
With a coupon you should get the IYP365 for arround $12 each. Ask M4dm4x
That lamp makes also a nice gift for relatives if you won’t sell it.
https://m.banggood.com/Lumintop-IYP365-And-Nichia-AAA-EDC-LED-Portable-Pen-Flashlight-p-1066314.html
You had to do that once to know if you are for lumen or nice tint.
Same lamp, same optic to keep other factors out.
You get also a clue if you’re more NW or CW.