Flashy Mike, great idea!
Nice indicator function :+1:
I rebuilt my triple 219c Maratac CR123 tail clicky today with a better switch and a Nangj 105c 3A driver
.
And replaced the battery in my 4yo electric toothbrush with an eneloop, much better now it doesn’t cut out unexpectedly half way through 
Nice work, both of you’s! 
CRX, I like how that Maratac looks like an 8 shot revolver cylinder. lol
What? No light on the toothbrush? Geez! Nice save….
I had previously done some work on my Klarus G35 right before I had surgery, removed the flat at the bottom of the reflector and made a Delrin cup to act as centering ring. Yesterday I removed the HD XHP-35 and put an HI E2 3D in it. The overall reflector height was leaving a bit of a shadow in the middle of the hot spot so today I flamed the head until I could get the glue broken loose and unscrewed it from the pill section enough to seat the bezel completely and now the hot spot is clean. I lost a few lumens in the trade but took candela from 223.5Kcd to 281.5Kcd, from 945.52M throw to 1061.13M. All in all it was worth the effort to fine tune it.
It took about an 1/8” backing the head off to allow the bezel to seat properly and attain focus, you can see here that the flat area at the base of the head is now well clear of the switch platform, where it had overlapped slightly in stock set-up…
And the HI emitter, from enough distance to show the reflector getting the square domeless emitter…
Strange you lost lumens, probably a wrong binning like D2 or C4
There are E2-3C which bumped the lumens from the stock D4-1A Emitters
I got those and customers report a bump in throw
The HI emitter is substantially less than an HD emitter, loss of the dome and all that. So one step up in bin is still slightly less output. (D4 1A to E2 3D) Also, a 3D will always make less lumens than a 1A in the same output bin, regardless of the output bin number. The darker phosphor I guess, but it’s always held true in every light I’ve built.
That a cheap luxmeter shows for same real lumen less for neutral white is typically that they are more sensitive for blue than for red
The only high binned XHP35 in E2 were 3C ones that I can confirm with a Cree label seen
worst case
if the D4-1A were on the top of the bin and the E2-3C were on the bottom the lux reading might be a little less, but a drop over 5% is unlikely
Never heard of E2-3D bin sold or used anywhere
I have some XHP35 HI E4-3C’s from Richard (RMM).
He has E2-3A’s in stock now…http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_114&product_id=763
Yeah I bought some of them and the lux reading is significantly lower than with the E2-3C on my sample
There is a reason XPL HI are always a lot lower than HD, so if there would be E4 HI we should have F2 HD ones as well
That certainly beats the power draw I got from mine, using only firmware mods. I’m getting about 1.7 mA for moon mode, which puts out about 0.11 lm. It should last about 73 days on a 3000 mAh cell, ish. But that still has the MCU running with PWM. Not nearly as nice as 0.36 mA, but still a big improvement over the stock D4’s ~6.4 mA moon mode.
If future Emisar lights still have an unused pin, I should see if Hank might be willing to wire it up for a dedicated moon channel. It might even be able to out-do Zebralight at their own game. 
Without attributing disparity to my own meter, Cree’s data sheets support that color tint changes output in like power bins.
And of course, I WAS talking about a drop from an HD to an HI emitter.
Ah gotcha, just seen this…[finished] Cree XHP35 HI E2-3C neutralwhite 12V, for Klarus XT11, XT12, G35; Truenite TN42; Acebeam K70
Taking the stock Klarus G35 XHP-35 emitter out, and putting the “XHP-35 HI E4 3D” emitter in, I see this comparison in numbers…
In stock form it was making…
28.74 Lumens
121.10
393.3
2114.85 at start
At 5 Meters testing, I got 223.5Kcd for 945.52M throw.
With the new HI emitter…
27.4 lumens
112
361
2015 at start
At 5 Meters testing, I got 281.5Kcd for 1061.13M throw.
Better tint, better lux, better throw. I’ll take 99.85 lumens loss…
Yeah the better throw was through your modification
The lumen loss is due to the LED are likely a D4 bin with lower blue light reducing the luxmeter reading a bit,
but definitely not a E4, which should have in worst case 7% more in best case 20%
The G35 was touted as having an HI D4 emitter to begin with. I honestly don’t remember doing it, but I must have put an HD emitter in it before I had surgery. The numbers I posted as stock were indeed as it came out of the box, I posted that the day I got it.
Without high end equipment, the vast majority of us really have no way of knowing just what emitter was sent to us by anyone we order from. Most can’t even get a reading. Those of us that can, know full well that our numbers are for comparison to our previous numbers alone, even if our light boxes were built by the same people. It’s never a rock solid carved in stone absolute, but a way to compare before and after when we mod a light.
I posted the beamshots and I like it with Narsil too much
I wont do go back to the replacement driver with XHP35 LED
XPL HI V3-3C @6.7A 1185m throw
with 3 Sanyo 18650GA cells cold start
14050 lux at 5m
351k lux @1m
Some pictures from the mod
stripping all parts and solder mask
Battery configuration changed to 1S/1-3P
Driver prepared with positive wire and thermal glue
Driver ground ring soldered with the main driver on a large surface to get a thermal bridge for the 7135 cooling
Also applied some Arctic Silver 5 between the shelf and tube
The illuminated side switch with Narsils Indicator LED output
XPL V3-3C
Finally got around to rebuilding my S42 with a TA/NarsilM driver from Lexel.
Soldered a 10kOhm resistor to the driver for the switch LED (stuck it down with superglue after soldering to stop it being ripped off by the wire moving).
I wanted thermal stepdown, and as this has awful thermal mass, I made a copper heat sink from an 18mm copper bar:
Thermal epoxied to the underside of the shelf:
I then put a generous amount of thermal epoxy on top of the μC, closed everything up and held the driver in place with the battery tube and left it to cure.
After some very fiddly soldering I managed to get the switch board and cover back into place (I didn’t leave a lot of space behind the switch for any excess wire, so had to cut them pretty short):
I know, the icon is upside down, I may correct that at some point, but I’m just happy it works 
I had a busy evening. Changed the LEDs on my green D4 to Nicha 219c 4000k. Perfectly golden tint with amazing CRI. The only downside is that it gets much hotter now than it did with XP-G2.
Dedomed a XP-G2 and put it in a C8. Pulls 4.27A on turbo and measured 176kcd at 10 meters. :+1:
Reworked the 4 18650 ability of my Maxtoch Shooter 2X. Turned out pretty good, feel good about the 4 hour investment…
Single tube for the 4 cells, 14 3/4” overall length.
Reflowed 219C 4000k into JETBeam MK-1. It is my first LED reflowed. I used flat iron tip. I hated cool tint of stock emiter. With 1.4v battery it takes around 1A on max level. Looks like ~100lm.
