What did you mod today?

That a cheap luxmeter shows for same real lumen less for neutral white is typically that they are more sensitive for blue than for red

The only high binned XHP35 in E2 were 3C ones that I can confirm with a Cree label seen

worst case
if the D4-1A were on the top of the bin and the E2-3C were on the bottom the lux reading might be a little less, but a drop over 5% is unlikely

Never heard of E2-3D bin sold or used anywhere

I have some XHP35 HI E4-3C’s from Richard (RMM).

He has E2-3A’s in stock now…http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_114&product_id=763

Yeah I bought some of them and the lux reading is significantly lower than with the E2-3C on my sample

There is a reason XPL HI are always a lot lower than HD, so if there would be E4 HI we should have F2 HD ones as well

That certainly beats the power draw I got from mine, using only firmware mods. I’m getting about 1.7 mA for moon mode, which puts out about 0.11 lm. It should last about 73 days on a 3000 mAh cell, ish. But that still has the MCU running with PWM. Not nearly as nice as 0.36 mA, but still a big improvement over the stock D4’s ~6.4 mA moon mode.

If future Emisar lights still have an unused pin, I should see if Hank might be willing to wire it up for a dedicated moon channel. It might even be able to out-do Zebralight at their own game. :stuck_out_tongue:

Without attributing disparity to my own meter, Cree’s data sheets support that color tint changes output in like power bins.

And of course, I WAS talking about a drop from an HD to an HI emitter.

Ah gotcha, just seen this…[finished] Cree XHP35 HI E2-3C neutralwhite 12V, for Klarus XT11, XT12, G35; Truenite TN42; Acebeam K70

Taking the stock Klarus G35 XHP-35 emitter out, and putting the “XHP-35 HI E4 3D” emitter in, I see this comparison in numbers…

In stock form it was making…

28.74 Lumens
121.10
393.3
2114.85 at start

At 5 Meters testing, I got 223.5Kcd for 945.52M throw.

With the new HI emitter…

27.4 lumens
112
361
2015 at start

At 5 Meters testing, I got 281.5Kcd for 1061.13M throw.

Better tint, better lux, better throw. I’ll take 99.85 lumens loss… :slight_smile:

Yeah the better throw was through your modification

The lumen loss is due to the LED are likely a D4 bin with lower blue light reducing the luxmeter reading a bit,
but definitely not a E4, which should have in worst case 7% more in best case 20%

The G35 was touted as having an HI D4 emitter to begin with. I honestly don’t remember doing it, but I must have put an HD emitter in it before I had surgery. The numbers I posted as stock were indeed as it came out of the box, I posted that the day I got it.

Without high end equipment, the vast majority of us really have no way of knowing just what emitter was sent to us by anyone we order from. Most can’t even get a reading. Those of us that can, know full well that our numbers are for comparison to our previous numbers alone, even if our light boxes were built by the same people. It’s never a rock solid carved in stone absolute, but a way to compare before and after when we mod a light.

I posted the beamshots and I like it with Narsil too much
I wont do go back to the replacement driver with XHP35 LED

XPL HI V3-3C @6.7A 1185m throw
with 3 Sanyo 18650GA cells cold start

14050 lux at 5m
351k lux @1m

Some pictures from the mod

stripping all parts and solder mask

Battery configuration changed to 1S/1-3P

Driver prepared with positive wire and thermal glue

Driver ground ring soldered with the main driver on a large surface to get a thermal bridge for the 7135 cooling

Also applied some Arctic Silver 5 between the shelf and tube

The illuminated side switch with Narsils Indicator LED output

XPL V3-3C

Finally got around to rebuilding my S42 with a TA/NarsilM driver from Lexel.

Soldered a 10kOhm resistor to the driver for the switch LED (stuck it down with superglue after soldering to stop it being ripped off by the wire moving).

I wanted thermal stepdown, and as this has awful thermal mass, I made a copper heat sink from an 18mm copper bar:

Thermal epoxied to the underside of the shelf:

I then put a generous amount of thermal epoxy on top of the μC, closed everything up and held the driver in place with the battery tube and left it to cure.

After some very fiddly soldering I managed to get the switch board and cover back into place (I didn’t leave a lot of space behind the switch for any excess wire, so had to cut them pretty short):

I know, the icon is upside down, I may correct that at some point, but I’m just happy it works :smiley:

I had a busy evening. Changed the LEDs on my green D4 to Nicha 219c 4000k. Perfectly golden tint with amazing CRI. The only downside is that it gets much hotter now than it did with XP-G2.

Dedomed a XP-G2 and put it in a C8. Pulls 4.27A on turbo and measured 176kcd at 10 meters. :+1:

Reworked the 4 18650 ability of my Maxtoch Shooter 2X. Turned out pretty good, feel good about the 4 hour investment…

Single tube for the 4 cells, 14 3/4” overall length.

Reflowed 219C 4000k into JETBeam MK-1. It is my first LED reflowed. I used flat iron tip. I hated cool tint of stock emiter. With 1.4v battery it takes around 1A on max level. Looks like ~100lm.

Album with pictures

Having already reworked my big Olight SR-90 Intimidator a while back with an XHP-70 and the big Illuminations Machines diamond facet 5-90 reflector with a high CRI K bin, I wasn’t all that pleased with the lower output from that emitter. So I swapped it out with a new style 70.2 a few days ago. This was an N4 emitter in 5700K tint, and while the tint was still nice, the light was still “only” making 5300 lumens. So I got a new P2 bin, also in 5700K tint, from Richard. Swapped them out last night and checked output… simply swapping in the new P2 got the lumens up to 8038! Nice! :smiley:

(I have modified the battery compartment in this light as well, instead of the proprietary pack I’m using a pair of 32650’s. These were partially used and well rested and still showed the 8038 lumens, need to charge em back up and see what’s shakin.)

Today my black D4 got its third set of leds. I took out the 4000K 90CRI XP-L2’s (right on picture), they were too green to be acceptable, and swapped in 4000K 70CRI Luxeon V’s (left on picture above).
The reflow was the most tedious annoying reflow I have ever done, because of the non-matching footprint every fraction of a mm wrong resulted in a short, from + to central pad or from - to central pad. All 4 leds needed exact positioning with the exact right amount of solder, I must have repositioned leds 30 times before I got it right with no shorts to the central pad (and thus ground). I wonder how safe this light is actually, the solder is solid of course, and in a TIR flashlight there is no force on the leds at all, but a battery short is that fraction of a mm away, with no collapsable springs in the D4.

But let’s not think unpleasant thoughts and have a look at the results. The beam is very nice, no square stuff and a gradual fading of the hotspot to the outside without annoying tint shifts.

And the output at maximum setting does not disappoint either, using a charged 30Q battery, 3 seconds after switch-on (the luxmeter in my sphere takes 3 seconds to adjust the reading after a large output change) I measured 4850 djozz-lumen, after 12 seconds the temperature-protection kicked in, the light was at 4620 lm then.

You have far more patience than I djozz. Well done on the mod. :+1:

Great! Now we only need MCPCBs for D4 and Luxeon V. And for triples with Carclo 10507. And …

I’m still waiting for triple mcpcb’s for the XHP-70.2. Slice the domes off, drop a CUTE 3 over the top and fill the head of an X6 with copper, the tube with 2 18350’s and let her rip! :slight_smile:

Nice patience Jos, hope it was worth it to you in the long run. :wink:

Nice work Djozz! And nice results.