All too malleable and yes it’s probably more for looks. They would need to be thicker and not annealed but at least they won’t stick out much past adjacent parts.
Yes. But the simplest way is to polish the copper and properly(thinly) applied lacquer should last… This is well known method for central heating pipes. They don’t oxidize after such treatment.
If they still use the same Nanjg driver then Biscotti will be perfect firmware for it. In order to have Bistro firmware you will need to swap the driver.
Just to echo that, yes, Biscotti is possible. Bistro is for attiny25, the included nanjg driver is attiny13a based.
Just pull out the pill. Unsoldered and carefully remove the led board (they used thermal adhesive). Push the wires into the pill. Using a small nail aimed outward toward the edge of the driver, give it a couple light taps and it should come out. They used a pressure-fit contact board that is connected to a floating nanjg driver. Good luck!
IMO I see nothing wrong with mentioning the ANSI standard throw numbers to the measured lux value. Using “usable distance” as a metric has no point because it is obviously going to be different for someone in Siberia compared to someone in New York City. There is a reason it is the ANSI standard - so that we can all compare equally around the world. It’s not perfect, but it is a standard that we can all use equally.
Using throw has its place because it is closer to how a non-flashaholic would rate a light - how powerful the light is scales close to linearly with how powerful it looks. Using kcd or lux is fine for flashaholics who understand the nuances of how that values is measured/calculated, but not real useful for the layperson who doesn’t know how light power scales exponentially.
edit:
On-topic: In B158 modding news, I used a dedomed SST-40 with FET driver and hit 270kcd. That was just quickly put together the other night, I don’t know yet if the SST-40 will be durable for long times with its low Vf and high amp draw. I tried chemical dedoming of an XP-L W2 for the first time last night, but it wasn’t clean and it left silicon remaining on the phosfor and didn’t hit high numbers compared to dedomed XM-L2 U4 and dedomed SST-40.
Except no one is speaking to people what they really can expect from ANSI distance numbers… I mean on what will happen if they strictly stick to it.
So someone could be greatly disappointed to buy light that claims certain throw distance by ANSI standard and upon turning on that light to realize fact that he got only 50-60% of that distance and he really needed that claimed distance.
I was also among such people… So for example when I bought my first Super thrower at that time(Tiablo A9) that claimed to be 280 meters light(around 20kcd) and upon turning that light finding that it has only around 100-120 meters at fair dark nights is something that made me furious… So nowhere near that claimed distance and I really needed flashlight that could reach that claimed distance at that time…
After collecting some experience; read ime i found that true distance numbers are 50-60% of ANSI claimed distance numbers when used at very dark nights and even less than that when used in moonlight, star nights or snowy night conditions.
People know what they see. And since I have 10/10 eye sight because of my work I can only recommend people to listen to my advice otherwise they could be disappointed.
But man nothing wrong with ANSI… After I figured out my deduction formula I really know what distance I can expect from claimed ANSI flashlight distance. I just say people should be warned what they can expect out of flashlight.
And sure it is very nice to hear that for example 270kcd light throws 1039 meters.
Sounds excellent and no one will be disappointed with that throw that is for sure cause it really have enough throw for any human perception and even for people with bad sight but it will never reach that claimed ansi distance in RL.
Now about B158… 270 kcd in B158 are respective results but SST 40 should be very hot and very short performer at 8A current draw? So after minute or so it will drop to 200kcd?
hi ,i am looking into buying this light with a xpl hi for the throw ,but for the love of God cannot find a remote switch anywhere.
Can i get a replacement tail for this ? so i can dyi me one.
Or would i be better served with another light ? (need only throw)
I am interested in switches for single 18650 fet lights.
Normally with generic monkey tail switch around 40% of performance drop will happen which is really not acceptable in my book so I toss all stupid tail switches I tried… None of commercial switches worked good with my single 18650 fet driver setup.
I know there is a way like making own straight cable 18 awg wires soldered on some kind of thin… I don’t know to find a word for it but it would be V shaped thingy that latches only when V shape merged into I shape…
Annoyed with the low output with remote pressure switches for flashlight?
I did a board with a MOSFET to eliminate the extra resistance from the external switch
size 16-17mm, for 16mm the battery holder fins need to be cut a bit
I use a MOSFET with a low gate voltage which gets full output down to 1.8V
The MOSFET is powered by a CR1225 Lithium battery with 36mAh should run easily hundreds of hours on
Don’t get me wrong but if you are seller selling flashlights to specific population of people(impatient and technically uneducated), you really don’t want to have battery powered switch cause when it eventually dies(and it will die sooner or later) you’ll have hundreds of phone calls how to replace that or where to find battery and loose precious time on something you should’t…
I would be in if you make pure mechanical tail switch without batteries with acceptable performance loss around 10% in lets say single 18650 fet driver configurations.
Your switch idea and board is great but you could only sell that to BLF technically educated community (just few of us).