Pre production sample [Review] Astrolux MF-01 4x18650 flashlight supplied by Banggood

your picture wont work, basically you run XHP70s at 6V
you cant simply use a wire in between the LEDs of a multi Emitter LED to run a hypothetical half battery voltage

the VDD is run from the MCU and with a LDO it is usually 5V, but somehow under our dual channel drivers also the FET comes in play with current spikes
Vdd is usually with a PWM signal from the MCU and is 5V

then they sit simply between the LED minus and ground with the other 2 connections

The problem with the 8.4V is simply a voltage spike generated when the FET get activated

If somebody is interested, below is a video of a friend - MF-01 XPG version in action:

My MF-01 broke after few hours (edit: 2 days from delivery, few hours of use). One of the banks of diodes always turn on, on full power, as soon as I screw the tailcap. Can’t be turned off other way than unscrewing the cap. other banks are working normally.

edit:
@Lexel: So what if I just use Zener diode to ensure the voltage won’t exceed 6V? AMC won’t need to drop 6V …

All the MCUs we use are rated for 5V, in a side switch light we need to keep the standby current low and a Zener diode mod draw a few mA, while the LDOs usually have 20-30uA

we do not overdrive the AMCs at the Vdd side or the LED side when the light is on
Vdd comes with 5V from the MCU and the LEDs eat up 6-7.5V from the supply voltage
but when we turn the light off still the full battery voltage lays over the LEDs and the AMCs
some AMCs have then a small leak current which makes the LEDs glow

DEL and Toykeeper looked at the sudden death of AMC7135s in high power 2S lights that draw 30-35A, it usually happen when the driver switches from AMCs to FET, so there is some sort of spike which damages the AMCs

The xp-g3 looks good to me on video. but i heard nichia is even better…. hard decision… not sure if i want to just let that extra 400ish lumens go and just get the nichia or the max 12000 lumen from xp-g3

The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color

LINK to maukka’s test
CRI Ra : 92
CRI R9 : 69

As a rule of thump: You can only detect a difference over 10 percent if the same lamps are side by side. In normal usage it’s even more.
12000 × 10% = 1200
The Nichia can be 1200lm “darker” before you see differnces.
For me it would be a no-brainer. Go high CRI.

Honestly that beamshot of the building is just stunning. Not the sheer output, but the tint is so nicely captured (at least on my screen). To me it is definitely a perfect picture of what a nice tint should result into. And this has nothing to do, if I’m not mistaken, with high CRI.

I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens… I really wish someone near me has both 219C and XpP-G3 so I can make my decision easier lol. Does anyone know the tested lumens on the XP-G3?

I have a Haikelite MT03 and I know MT03 is more of a flood light and MF01 is a bit more throwly. Just wondering if I use them side by side would I able to have the “Holy Shhh this MF01 Nichia is bright…”

I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one… Thanks

The differnce from 9 to 12 klumens is visible with the eye when you ceiling bounce
but in use its as bright as the Nichia has about the same lux number because of the smaller LED die size

So the Nichias beam is tighter
The tint of the LEDs in my Nichia is very nice pure white
Also the Nichia has almost no visible tint shift within the beam

Personally I prefer less lumens if the deal / trade off is for better colors rendition, no hesitation, not even once !
I’m still using a flashlight that outputs 100 lumens in the highest mode and never found a rival to its particular beam and color rendition = high CRI seoul P4.
For outdoor activities, high CRI is a necessity for me. Less lumens but better lumens.

I hope they are using the same Nichias, second round, because that is what I just ordered. No question in my mind, as to which I prefer. But there also some sad Nichias, the ones in my first batch S41 were very disappointing to me. Maybe I need new ’specs.

Basically, with the XP-G3 the light is going to have the cool white “LED look”. Most everyone will assume the light is from an LED source, without even seeing it. However, with the Nichias the light looks more traditional, as if from a “million+ candlepower”-style halogen spotlight. If you were to have it on, those who would not know better might expect to see a few glass bulbs in the light head, whenever you turned it off.

From the few that have splurged and bought both versions, most have said that while the XP-G3 was indeed visually brighter than the 219C, it wasn’t really that big of a difference.

I have ordered both variants and kept the Nichias. My thinking - I coudn’t see much difference in quantity of light side by side. Anyway in both cases the light is very bright at max level, but that lasts for a while, while the quality (High CRI) of the Nichias is present also on the lower levels. I also have Q8, so decided to go with high CRI on this one. Anyway tough to choose, I like both variants.

I would advise by the same lamp with two different LEDs. Sell the unwanted.

I tried that out with the Lumintop IYP365.
The Cree is 200lm
The Nichia 219B is 140lm but CRI 90, around 4000K.
I carried both a week and used it both every time. After two days I knew I want Nichia high CRI and don’t care about less lumen in real live.
It was important to use the lights, based only on 5 minutes playing it would have been the Cree.

With a coupon you should get the IYP365 for arround $12 each. Ask M4dm4x

That lamp makes also a nice gift for relatives if you won’t sell it.

https://m.banggood.com/Lumintop-IYP365-And-Nichia-AAA-EDC-LED-Portable-Pen-Flashlight-p-1066314.html

You had to do that once to know if you are for lumen or nice tint.
Same lamp, same optic to keep other factors out.
You get also a clue if you’re more NW or CW.

ahhh so you got both and the output difference is small? I just ordered the Nichia version and it’s on my way! And if I really like this light maybe I’ll see if they have any specials on the coming Holidays (Black friday, Christmas, New years/ Chinese New years etc.) Then get the XP-G3 version

Bypassed the driver spring last night. IMO it did get a little brighter. Maybe it’s all in my head.

some slight modification on MF01 design

- driver holes increased to 2.25mm and now it is a via

- Spring pad increased to 10mm

  • ground ring bug solved

Tempted on getting this light, but I’m a bit apprehensive as to the 2S2P setup (Capacity and Voltage). Besides the danger of inserting batteries in the wrong polarity, what other dangers could potentially exist from this configuration using non protected cells? I’m aware that a 4p setup (Capacity) is generally safer using non protected cells, but so far all of my lights use 2s and 3s configs and they all run protected cells.