Olight S Mini

The optic will make ugly artifacts with a 219C or any XP size emitter

Thanks for pointing out the temperature/tint distinction. I’m a bit frazzled after trying to shop around and then decode the Cree datasheet. It took me way too long to understand that the order codes didn’t indicate the bin codes. I’m certain I’ll want to go with an A or D. I’m just trying to imagine the differences between the 1, 2, 3, and 4. And, sometimes that isn’t even indicated. It has been confusing trying to figure all this out.

I’m too chicken to do the swap myself. I want to practice first on something else. And I’m too impatient to wait so I’ll be sending this out to LightRider to do it. Otherwise, I could do both (or more), see which I prefer, and go with that.

I have several L3 Illumination lights (L08, L10, L10C, L11C) with 219A or 219B. I prefer the 219A over the 219B when comparing them side to side as it is a touch warmer. The 219B is brighter, though. I have one light with a 5000K 219C and I wish it was warmer.

Interesting.

I think it’ll be a 5D. I saw the U2 5D that you linked to but it doesn’t specify CRI or the 1, 2, 3, 4 (what’s the term for that?). I don’t have enough experience to know which 1234 I’d prefer but I do want high CRI. I don’t mind sacrificing a little efficiency for a little higher CRI.

I have an XM-L2 4D in a C8 sized light with OP reflector, a ‘corona killer’ (turns the corona into spill) and a 5° diffuser film.
But besides that, i love the tint.
It’s cool enough to not miss the red too much (because it’s not high CRI)
4A and 4D are not easy to find though.

Candor, if you like I will Order both emitters and do a comparison by photo. Then whichever emitter you choose, I’ll just charge you for that emitter and I’ll keep the other. It may come in handy down the line anyway.

Your call:)

sooo… no High CRI option for the Olight S-Mini?

how about this one… can it take a High CRI Nichia?:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-flashlight-USB-charging-EDC-ultra-small-hand-light-portable-16340-miniature-pocket-side-by-flashlight/32821588455.html

You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…

Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.

Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.

thank you for the very helpful education

fwiw, I had a XPL 90 CRI installed into an Olight i3s. It is VERY yellow
it is presently with LightRider, waiting for the arrival of some Warm High CRI N219c

here is the color difference between them

I dont tolerate Yellow very well, so a Low CRI “Neutral” SMini is not on my radar… and even in high CRI, Cree LEDs tend to be on the Yellow side, above the BBL… The 219c are also above the BBL, but not as much, so not as yellow.

this image will give some idea why the N219b is known to be “pink”… note how it lands below the BBL
The N219c is not as pink, note how it lands above the BBL

I don’t have a maukka scan of a 3000k XPL, but here is one of a cooler version…
Note the Tint lands above the BBL

Is it the same one you linked to earlier? This one: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-5d-p-806.html

I believe I have XM-L2 T5 5D1 80+CRI in it.

Mountain electronics has a 5D3 with minimal 80cri.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=392

Thank you for the education
I don’t consider 80CRI sufficient for my High CRI goals, I want 90+CRI

it seems clear to me that the people that enjoy the Olight options, don’t mind Low CRI, and don’t mind Yellow Tint.

I will assume unless you show me a photo otherwise, that side by side Compared to a 4000k 90CRI N219b (that I linked to), your 80CRI XM-L2 is yellow tinted.

@candor
I hope you are beginning to grasp some of the variables in play
CRI, Color Temperature, and Tint
each variable is independent, for example, you can have an 80CRI 4000k Yellow Tinted Cree LED, or you can (not in an Smini), have a 90CRI 4000k Pink Tinted N219b…

you won’t know the difference unless you compare them… so my advice is don’t compare them or you might become a snob like me, who refuses to buy Low CRI LEDs (I call anything above 90CRI, High CRI)

Yeah, that’s the one I’ve pretty much decided on. I can imagine what the difference is between the 5D1 and the 5D3 but I haven’t found any photo comparison. Have you experienced both?
Not that it much matters—I don’t see the 5D1 available anywhere.

Now that’s service!

I hope to get going with this in the next day or so. Looks like it’ll be the T5 5D3 from Mountain Electronics. I’m gonna pick up a D4 as soon as they’re available again so I can just get the emitter then.

@jon_slider
I hear you, brother. I have snobbish tendencies but not a great deal of experience with the myriad of options. I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.

@everyone else
Thanks for your time and advice. I love BLF!

Im also very attracted Copper, and also have been fortunate to have modding help from LightRider.

I look forward to your progress, and Photos :slight_smile:

LightRider modded the two lights on the left, and I could not be happier. Highest recommendations for his services!

here is a beam shot, with white balance set to the 4000k Nichia… the light on the right is Cool White 6000k+ Color temp.

as time allows, you will learn about the effects of white balance on photos, and brain
I like to match the color temperature of my flashlight to the white balance of my brain in a given environment

copper copper copper
I like to have a range of color temperature choices:

the beams from the above lights:

note white balance is now the 6000k light (thats cool white, what some cameras refer to as “daylight” white balance)

I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.

Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!

:partying_face:

Ermagherd Limnutop Wrom !

I look forward to your results. Wondering what the lumen levels and mode sequence is. I can’t figure it out from the web info.

Yes,
and it is available for adoption to a good home :slight_smile: PM me if anyone is interested
the head also plays well on a Maratac, a Tool, and a Thrunite
it uses a 4500k N219b, quite nice, and not as yellow as the latest Maratac and Tools which are closer to 4000k

fwiw, modes on the Wrom are MLH 20-3-90, no PWM, and regulated and efficient, even in High mode, much better runtime too, than the Tool, which is very inefficient and unregulated on High.

Received my Copper S Mini today.
Photographable PWM/Constant Current Flicker:

size comparisons

Im amazed how small the S Mini is. The beam is very green in the middle.
Electronic Lockout causes moonlight to work when pressing the button, and turns off when releasing the button. a little weird… but, Im happily entertained. Lockout also erases memory and unlocking starts the light on Moonlight.