About OTR, besides the lights they have on Gearbest (Models: U16, M3, M6, X5, M900, X6, U18), they also have an AliExpress Store where they have other interesting models, such as the M1 (16340 with tailswitch) and the M5 (AA/14500 with side switch).
Price is higher, shipping is paid, and some of the specs are in non-english language, what makes it difficult to read.
I sent a message to the seller asking to change language, so that more people can be aware of the specs. Let’s see if it works
I just got the U16 for $20 with a discount, think it was freeme's. Nice little chunkie light, but haven't torn it down yet. Hoping for a little more internal space. Not liking the switch/UI, it seems inconsistent registering clicks and holds. Hopefully the problem is not mechanical. Switches can be hard to find to replace.
I gotta order one of these clones. For $13, it's a deal. Looks like the switch cover is more translucent too - the LEd I got in the M3 can't really be seen in room light, nice on the nightstand though. Should have tried swapping the LED color - think I'n using a warm white or something.
how many lumens is each mode?
can it be set up to start on 20 lumens, followed by 200 lumens, followed by 0.2 lumens?
Im confused by the different UI and mode levels of the various Olight, OnTheRoad, and Jaxman versions
can someone point me to info on the modes of each?
Still not understanding why the OTR i3 doesn’t get much love here on BLF
Zoomed out about the same beam profile as the M3 but because if the zoom one can see things further away.
As a matter of fact this clone where we now talk about with zoom would be so nice for these little lights just don’t throw so far yet the i3 proves it is possible.
This is one of the reasons I opted for it (S1R Baton), the chance to access directly to Moonlight and that being a low moonlight level, maybe not the lowest, but low enough for what I need it.
If it wasn’t that, my 1st option would be the OTR (half the price) or this Jaxmnve (1/4 of the price) :person_facepalming:
Djozz loved it and made some nice things in the i3 This was also a thread on it last year!
I guess you have a point on that! It would allow to see further, and it is much more compact than other zoomie lights (AAs or 18650s). The Jaxmnve with zoom, maybe it was a winner for such a compact light!
Fasttech still sells the i3 (along with many other OTR lights, even some that seem oooold school), but GB and OTR on AliExpress don’t have them. Maybe it was discontinued.
I just sold a modded m3. I have two of these clones with charging on the bench ready to mod. I’ll post them for sale here first in case anyone wants one. I’m not sure yet if I can save the charging option. I am going to fight tooth and nail for it though.
Hum, guess that’s going to be a tough mod
Let us know what you’ve done, when you’ve done it
Oh boy…this UI… :person_facepalming:
From the video, on the stepless dimming, it doesn’t appear to go down to low lumen levels, does it? How low does it go, if you have an estimation?
Thanks :+1:
I took apart the clone today. I ended up relying on an aluminum rod and a hammer two sizes larger than the one I started with. It deformed the brass ring some and broke a couple solder joints, but the brass can be reformed to shape and after some extra solder on the broken connections the driver still works. I’m quite surprised though, I gave it some pretty good pounding.
My end goal does not include the original driver circuit, but I’m hanging on to the charging circuit. The charger used is labeled, HXN-MH. The charge port is remotely mounted directly to the pill with a rather heafty screw. I believe the rest of the charge circuit is contained on the back of the vertically mounted switchboard. After some digging through my parts bins the good news is that I believe I can mod it with a triple channel board running Narsil and retain the charging function. The bad news is, it is NOT going to be easy.
For anyone wants to open their’s up, the reflector is not screwed in like the m3 but be prepared for a fight to get the pill out of the head! I would recommend pounding using something solid that fits tightly in the battery tube with minimal wiggle. If you need to pound with a punch or screw driver try to avoid both the end with the switch and the side with the charge port. focus on the part of the pill on either side between the two as this is where the brass touches the aluminum of the pill. Pounding the other areas will result in deforming the brass ring and possibly loosening parts on the driver. Also, I would remove the charge port cover ahead of time. I ended up shearing off the tab that keeps the cover from completely coming off when charging. With the tab gone it will be more easily lost. I have a solution in mind though.
I would have posted picks but my camera/phone quit on me. So I’m out my lifeline till I can figure that out.
Oh yes, emitter swaps should be doable. Only trouble is that the mcpcb is glued to the pill. I scraped around the edges with an exacto knife and still had to twist pretty hard with my needle nose pliers. I’m not sure what emitter is going in this one but I am sure it’s going to be nice!
