Olight S Mini

sooo… no High CRI option for the Olight S-Mini?

how about this one… can it take a High CRI Nichia?:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-flashlight-USB-charging-EDC-ultra-small-hand-light-portable-16340-miniature-pocket-side-by-flashlight/32821588455.html

You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…

Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.

Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.

thank you for the very helpful education

fwiw, I had a XPL 90 CRI installed into an Olight i3s. It is VERY yellow
it is presently with LightRider, waiting for the arrival of some Warm High CRI N219c

here is the color difference between them

I dont tolerate Yellow very well, so a Low CRI “Neutral” SMini is not on my radar… and even in high CRI, Cree LEDs tend to be on the Yellow side, above the BBL… The 219c are also above the BBL, but not as much, so not as yellow.

this image will give some idea why the N219b is known to be “pink”… note how it lands below the BBL
The N219c is not as pink, note how it lands above the BBL

I don’t have a maukka scan of a 3000k XPL, but here is one of a cooler version…
Note the Tint lands above the BBL

Is it the same one you linked to earlier? This one: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-5d-p-806.html

I believe I have XM-L2 T5 5D1 80+CRI in it.

Mountain electronics has a 5D3 with minimal 80cri.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=392

Thank you for the education
I don’t consider 80CRI sufficient for my High CRI goals, I want 90+CRI

it seems clear to me that the people that enjoy the Olight options, don’t mind Low CRI, and don’t mind Yellow Tint.

I will assume unless you show me a photo otherwise, that side by side Compared to a 4000k 90CRI N219b (that I linked to), your 80CRI XM-L2 is yellow tinted.

@candor
I hope you are beginning to grasp some of the variables in play
CRI, Color Temperature, and Tint
each variable is independent, for example, you can have an 80CRI 4000k Yellow Tinted Cree LED, or you can (not in an Smini), have a 90CRI 4000k Pink Tinted N219b…

you won’t know the difference unless you compare them… so my advice is don’t compare them or you might become a snob like me, who refuses to buy Low CRI LEDs (I call anything above 90CRI, High CRI)

Yeah, that’s the one I’ve pretty much decided on. I can imagine what the difference is between the 5D1 and the 5D3 but I haven’t found any photo comparison. Have you experienced both?
Not that it much matters—I don’t see the 5D1 available anywhere.

Now that’s service!

I hope to get going with this in the next day or so. Looks like it’ll be the T5 5D3 from Mountain Electronics. I’m gonna pick up a D4 as soon as they’re available again so I can just get the emitter then.

@jon_slider
I hear you, brother. I have snobbish tendencies but not a great deal of experience with the myriad of options. I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.

@everyone else
Thanks for your time and advice. I love BLF!

Im also very attracted Copper, and also have been fortunate to have modding help from LightRider.

I look forward to your progress, and Photos :slight_smile:

LightRider modded the two lights on the left, and I could not be happier. Highest recommendations for his services!

here is a beam shot, with white balance set to the 4000k Nichia… the light on the right is Cool White 6000k+ Color temp.

as time allows, you will learn about the effects of white balance on photos, and brain
I like to match the color temperature of my flashlight to the white balance of my brain in a given environment

copper copper copper
I like to have a range of color temperature choices:

the beams from the above lights:

note white balance is now the 6000k light (thats cool white, what some cameras refer to as “daylight” white balance)

I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.

Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!

:partying_face:

Ermagherd Limnutop Wrom !

I look forward to your results. Wondering what the lumen levels and mode sequence is. I can’t figure it out from the web info.

Yes,
and it is available for adoption to a good home :slight_smile: PM me if anyone is interested
the head also plays well on a Maratac, a Tool, and a Thrunite
it uses a 4500k N219b, quite nice, and not as yellow as the latest Maratac and Tools which are closer to 4000k

fwiw, modes on the Wrom are MLH 20-3-90, no PWM, and regulated and efficient, even in High mode, much better runtime too, than the Tool, which is very inefficient and unregulated on High.

Received my Copper S Mini today.
Photographable PWM/Constant Current Flicker:

size comparisons

Im amazed how small the S Mini is. The beam is very green in the middle.
Electronic Lockout causes moonlight to work when pressing the button, and turns off when releasing the button. a little weird… but, Im happily entertained. Lockout also erases memory and unlocking starts the light on Moonlight.

The moon flicker is unfortunate, but I understand why they did it. At such a low level, the processor takes more power than the LED, so it doesn’t have as much runtime as it should. This can be improved by underclocking the processor in moon mode, but it has the side effect of slowing down PWM.

I like how the lockout mode also allows moon to be used without unlocking the light. I put a similar feature in Anduril, except it works a bit better than Olight’s version. It may seem weird at first, but I think it makes a lot of sense.

My oLight i3s has no photographable flicker on moon mode. It is also <0.5 lumens on my meter
My Maratac AAA has no photographable flicker on its low that my meter says is 2.5 lumens.

The S Mini has photoFlicker on its 8 lumen low (my meter) also. Neither the oLight i3s, nor the Maratac AAA, or my Mecarmy PT-16 have any photoFlicker on their lows…

constant Current no longer means no visible or photoFlicker. The moon on oLight also shows dots when waving the light (a popular PWM test)… but its too fast to see on Low…

this is my first S Mini. I love the host. The driver and LED, not so much… but… Im still happy to play with it. Im accustomed to Nichias in my other lights… the S Mini has a Majorly green center to its beam… definitely makes the palm of my hand look cadaverous… :slight_smile:

IF I was criticizing, and Im not, just entertained, the “lockout” should be a true lockout, NO light should come from the switch being pocket activated, but, at least it won’t drain power for long, since its intermittent, nor very fast, since its only moon…

Like that I can always get to moon by press hold from off… confusing that it goes into lockout if I hold too long…
like that tripple click gives strobe, and double click gives high, as those match the way my PT-16 UI works… in fact, so does the press to advance… so the oLight UI is easily intuitive… I like the memory, cause I can store moon or Low if I want to (or med or high too, but thats not me)… Im a moon and Low user, mostly…

Like that even without the clip, the oLight won’t roll off a table, due to the bump around the switch… Love the knurling!

tons of fun, no regrets, love the copper, love that the clip works on a hat

at some point, after the High CRI S1 goes on sale, Im contemplating picking one up as a donor… I would like to go to a Nichia, and would like the low battery indicator, in the Cu S Mini host… but that depends on not frying the S1 Mini High CRI driver… which so far has been reported as a potential issue… once…

Same. It’s one of my favorite lights, but I’d like to replace the driver and LED.

there is a flash sale at the olight store in 2 days, the High CRI S1 Mini for 30% off, might be time to open my wallet, again:-)… here comes a High CRI TIR, Driver, and Switch w low battery indicator… Nichia on Board!