[Review] Convoy S2+ (Sand Colored, XP-L HI V2) ~ Best budget EDC?

[quote=bilakos10]

Even with just 8 chips, the S2+ can get extremely hot. I can’t imagine what it would be like with 12 chips.

[quote=Pete7874]

It would probably start spitting flames after 90 seconds on high :smiling_imp:

It would turn into a real torch. :slight_smile:

S2+ and S3 with RMMs DIY FET-Driver and Triple-LEDs here
Takes around 45 seconds to get uncomfortably warm in the head area…
I would love more Convoys like the S8 with at least a bit of a heatsink…

It does heat up, but I find it takes a few minutes longer to get too hot to touch on turbo than what most concerns I’ve read here seem to believe. And this is with the nichia on the x8 driver, the xp-l should take longer even to become burning hot. The triple with FET, of course, is another story entirely

I forgot to add another change I’ve made, which is to change the GTD o-ring for a black one, in order to reduce a slight tint shift to green which is uncharacteristic of the nichia and took me a while to figure out :person_facepalming:

The reason it took so long is because the OP reflector on my other S2+ did not have this effect as visible, but the SMO reflector on the clear one made it noticeable

Out of curiosity, what LEDs are you running on your triple setup?
Heatsinks or not, the compact form factor of the light will always stop it from handling high currents.

Don’t make the mistake I made. Just get a set of “ring-pullers”. I got a set from Tekton (via Amazon) for a decent price, and was kicking myself I didn’t just go and do that long ago.

4 pliers in a set, all combinations of straight/curved, squeeze-to-open/squeeze-to-close.

No more screwing around with needlenose pliers, tweezers, screwdrivers, etc. Ever.

Curling-iron.

It is very confusing. When I’m recommending the S2+ light to others I almost have to write a thesis on reseller, chips, UI, colour, emitter/reflector, tint. The XP-L HI models should have used a different model name.

I think FT, BG, and GB all requested the 3/5 mode UI in their order.

Indeed. It’s bad enough to have to explain the difference between S2 and S2+, let alone the myriad other models. At least the C8 is the good old C8, no closely-named similar models within Convoy itself.

Personally speaking, good reason not to purchase Convoys off of them and always go straight to Simon.

I’m actually recommending the 3/5 mode version to other lighting photographers as it has a better strobe (10Hz). Whilst the variable strobe in the latest revision of Biscotti is great for giving someone a migraine, it sucks for light painting.

Good point, although light painting is (sadly) such a niche usage, I’d expect the painter/photographer to request the 3/5 firmware anyway.

Then again, Biscotti, while versatile, is so open-ended in its configuration, the regular joe might get intimidated by the mode select flowchart alone. “Click when it blinks” seems far less ‘scary’ to them, I’ll bet.

I wouldn’t say it is niche anymore. For example a private FB group following light painter Eric Pare has 14,000 members. He uses the Eagtac D25LC2 and it does wonders of sales of that light! Klarus XT11GT is also highly recommended by a couple of other light painters, which helps their sales. I’m aware of at least 30 other light painters who have purchased Convoy S2+ or Thorfire TK15S based on my recommendations.

Sadly, a lot of newby light painters make the mistake of buying 100,000 lumen G700 zoomy clones (and wondering why they have to use ISO1600 to see any light) but I try to re- educate them!

Agreed, was tempted to pick up another desert tan S2+ at that price, but seeing the lack of biscotti firmware makes it an easy choice to just support Simon directly.

[quote=Lightbringer]

I’ve bought a couple, none that I’ve found are slim and long enough that I can get them in all my lights without bumping around of fitting to tight, and it’s extremely hard to find different models/brands in brick and mortar stores around here. I ended up buying a kit of heavy duty tweezers as I like using one, but mine bends kinda easy

Unno, I made the mistake of buying one of those watch-unscrewers, whatever they’re called, and didn’t fit anything deep enough, not even tailswitch retaining-rings.

With the Tektons, never a problem.

[quote=Persechini]

I also tried a pair of fine tip tweezers.
Mine went Uri Geller on the first try and now they are angled :sunglasses:
It’s about time we buy some snap ring pliers.

remember that the thread is “the other way around” - you know that? :stuck_out_tongue:
I usually use some tweezers I think I bought from RMM - “Weitus No.10” - they have pretty thick tips and haven’t bent since.

Yes I knew about the reverse threaded tailcap.
It just happened that my tweezers were very fine and consequently thin!

Nice review bilakos10 :wink:
I’ve been using the S2+ Desert Tan (Sand or “Sandy”) and it has been one of my most used lights, with XPL-HI U6-3A and biscotti firmware.

I normally use it with the 18350 tube and it has been pretty useful, like a “pocket thrower” in many cases!
Most of my lights are black, what leads me to say this one “jumps to sight” among them, being that beautiful inside and outside :blush:

The clicky switch, at first it was strange to click, but then…it is pretty nice, works smoothly and doesn’t make so much “noise” as the “regular” rubber tailswitches! Well done Simon :+1:

Yesterday I realized that using the XPL-HI in the lowest level (0,1%) - even in a 8*7135 driver -, allows having a nice moolinght, as the XPL-HI has lower intenstity of XML2 LEDs.
I’m thinking about getting a 2nd one, with 4*7135 and other XPL-HI tint to have even moonlight and lower levels for indoor :slight_smile:

Also, using the XPL-HI with pebbled (60º) lenses is pretty good too. It takes out the “throw”, for sure, but gives a pretty good illumination range as well :+1: