“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
Olight, Imo is not being “cloned”, it is one of the clones. It happens to have Lumen Levels that I prefer. I like the 0.5 low of the Olight driver.
This is one of the reasons I opted for it (S1R Baton), the chance to access directly to Moonlight and that being a low moonlight level, maybe not the lowest, but low enough for what I need it.
If it wasn’t that, my 1st option would be the OTR (half the price) or this Jaxmnve (1/4 of the price)
The Miller wrote:
Still not understanding why the OTRi3 doesn’t get much love here on BLF
Zoomed out about the same beam profile as the M3 but because if the zoom one can see things further away.
As a matter of fact this clone where we now talk about with zoom would be so nice for these little lights just don’t throw so far yet the i3 proves it is possible.
Djozz loved it and made some nice things in the i3 This was also a thread on it last year!
I guess you have a point on that! It would allow to see further, and it is much more compact than other zoomie lights (AAs or 18650s). The Jaxmnve with zoom, maybe it was a winner for such a compact light!
Fasttech still sells the i3 (along with many other OTR lights, even some that seem oooold school), but GB and OTR on AliExpress don’t have them. Maybe it was discontinued.
Thanks for your answer Tom, it was very clarifying about the state of things!
I guess, it will difficult to change my UIs and drivers then
Not being able to build or reprogram drivers is a PITA, specially when such nice firmwares are coming out to change the game!
It would be good to find some available for these small lights, ready to swap in and to make lights better! Time will come, I hope
I just sold a modded m3. I have two of these clones with charging on the bench ready to mod. I’ll post them for sale here first in case anyone wants one. I’m not sure yet if I can save the charging option. I am going to fight tooth and nail for it though.
Still not understanding why the OTRi3 doesn’t get much love here on BLF
Zoomed out about the same beam profile as the M3 but because if the zoom one can see things further away.
As a matter of fact this clone where we now talk about with zoom would be so nice for these little lights just don’t throw so far yet the i3 proves it is possible.
On M8 it has strobe in modes? No double click or something?
—
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
I’m not sure yet if I can save the charging option. I am going to fight tooth and nail for it though.
Hum, guess that’s going to be a tough mod
Let us know what you’ve done, when you’ve done it
freeme wrote:
Low (more like mid) > High > Strobe
Double click will activate auto ramping loop. Their ramping style is not really useful imo.
XXX-Man wrote:
On M8 it has strobe in modes? No double click or something?
Oh boy…this UI…
From the video, on the stepless dimming, it doesn’t appear to go down to low lumen levels, does it? How low does it go, if you have an estimation?
Thanks
Oh well…
If I hate it I will give it to someone who doesn’t care
—
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
I took apart the clone today. I ended up relying on an aluminum rod and a hammer two sizes larger than the one I started with. It deformed the brass ring some and broke a couple solder joints, but the brass can be reformed to shape and after some extra solder on the broken connections the driver still works. I’m quite surprised though, I gave it some pretty good pounding.
My end goal does not include the original driver circuit, but I’m hanging on to the charging circuit. The charger used is labeled, HXN-MH. The charge port is remotely mounted directly to the pill with a rather heafty screw. I believe the rest of the charge circuit is contained on the back of the vertically mounted switchboard. After some digging through my parts bins the good news is that I believe I can mod it with a triple channel board running Narsil and retain the charging function. The bad news is, it is NOT going to be easy.
For anyone wants to open their’s up, the reflector is not screwed in like the m3 but be prepared for a fight to get the pill out of the head! I would recommend pounding using something solid that fits tightly in the battery tube with minimal wiggle. If you need to pound with a punch or screw driver try to avoid both the end with the switch and the side with the charge port. focus on the part of the pill on either side between the two as this is where the brass touches the aluminum of the pill. Pounding the other areas will result in deforming the brass ring and possibly loosening parts on the driver. Also, I would remove the charge port cover ahead of time. I ended up shearing off the tab that keeps the cover from completely coming off when charging. With the tab gone it will be more easily lost. I have a solution in mind though.
I would have posted picks but my camera/phone quit on me. So I’m out my lifeline till I can figure that out.
Oh yes, emitter swaps should be doable. Only trouble is that the mcpcb is glued to the pill. I scraped around the edges with an exacto knife and still had to twist pretty hard with my needle nose pliers. I’m not sure what emitter is going in this one but I am sure it’s going to be nice!
there is a review here, but it actually does not say what the lumen levels are, but it has other info and photos you may enjoy http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47124
freeme wrote:
PWM (Pulse Wave Modulation) PWM is present, you see some minor fluctuation in the light source but not really visible in real world.
Thanks jon_slider for the information on the On The Road M3
Despite the different “appreciations”/measurements, it is a really great light!
However, I was asking about the levels of the Jaxmnve M3 (aka, “the clone” ) as from freeme ‘s video about the UI it is possible to see that it goes to low levels, but doesn’t seem to go to moonlight levels.
I may be wrong, but it doesn’t seem to go that down! I already have one on the way, so it won’t weight on the decision, it is just to be aware what I (or other buyers) can wait !!
Thanks jon_slider for the information on the On The Road M3
Despite the different “appreciations”/measurements, it is a really great light!
However, I was asking about the levels of the Jaxmnve M3 (aka, “the clone” ) as from freeme ‘s video about the UI it is possible to see that it goes to low levels, but doesn’t seem to go to moonlight levels.
I may be wrong, but it doesn’t seem to go that down! I already have one on the way, so it won’t weight on the decision, it is just to be aware what I (or other buyers) can wait !!
Thanks again
Yes, you are correct. It doesn’t go as low as many would like. The lowest level is maybe 40lm? That is a very crude guess only from memory and not by direct comparison. But it’s definaltely not a moon mode and more like a moderate low mode.
Yes, you are correct. It doesn’t go as low as many would like. The lowest level is maybe 40lm? That is a very crude guess only from memory and not by direct comparison. But it’s definaltely not a moon mode and more like a moderate low mode.
Thanks for the answer LightRider!! Well…that is not what I expected when I saw stepless dimming, but ok, we’ll survive this UI
It will always be a niceBUDGET light as long as it works well in the modes it has, once that modding it is not an easy option, as you and TomE said!
The Miller wrote:
Hahaha that ramp is funny, not a wide range but funny yeah.
It seems to go a little lower this way.
Eheheh, at least it is funny
Maybe – I’m just saying – maybe the manufacturers would be open to use one of the mentioned firmwares, Narsil, NarsilM, others, if we “advise” them to do that!
Do you think this was a good option, or was it desirable? If these firmwares are open source, it would be interesting to get to these manufacturers and tell them about it.
I don’t have much experience contacting manufacturers. Sofirn and Amutorch are just 2 of them to whom I provided some feedback on the flashlights I bought (through AliExpress).
- Sofirn – represented on BLF by Tracy Wan – incorporated some feedbacks given here about their AA lights (were from H to ML, now are L to H, and strobes were “dismissed”).
- Amutorch contact, despite didn’t make the changes (yet?) took the given suggestions to their responsibles.
This Jaxmnve manufacturer already uses a “ramping UI” (+ clicks). Maybe they are open to make some changes on their drivers and UIs and make a more “nice” light.
I’m just saying! Sorry if I completely ignore how things can happen on this manufacturing world, as I have no experience on that
As a user, I would just like to have the best flashlights possible, keeping the budget side on it!
BLF firmware, whilst wonderful, is not the be-all and end-all.
Neither are simple FET drivers, necessarily.
And is predicated on relatively expensive MCUs.
And is an acquired taste, maybe more than many will ever want, or use fully.
Plenty of good stuff being done commercially with much more humble stuff, E.g. I have a huge 4D cell “10W Cree LED” torch that cost £12 (reduced) from Lidl/Aldi last year, with simple high, low, then for more control a great ramping UI, up and down, flicker at each limit, hidden strobe, perfect.
All good, genuine Cree XMLLED in good neutral white tint, driven well, good reflector, the metalwork alone weighs over 700g, when loaded with included x4 Ds (a few quid themselves), 1.3 kilos. Fit, finish, o-rings, anodisation quality, all great.
Bought it having a project for the chassis in mind, but so good I never bothered. Perfect for walking the dog, or investigating “bumps in the night”.
The driver is pretty simple. However it looks like there are some things hurting the efficiency. Idk?
The driver uses two large limiting resistors that have a total resistance of 1.32 Ω.
It is interesting that the driver uses the same fet for reverse polarity protecton and for the output mosfet. So the current travels through an fet twice before it reaches the led. I believe this is less efficient than using a diode for the MCU only like the BLF drivers do?
However the reverse polarity protects both the driver and her charging circuit. So after the rpp mosfet the batt- is isolated from the rest of the driver. The only other part connected to the host is the switch.
All of the charging circuit is contained on the vertical switch pcb apart from the rpp fet. I am unsure if the charging uv has rpp or not. I’m assuming not.
The charger has a program resistor of 1.5k Ω. This should give a charge current of .66 amps. This is assuming that the charging ic closely resembles the MCP73831/2 as I couldn’t find a data sheet for the HXN-MH. Someone somewhere mentioned a connection but I’m not sure. The pin layout seems a little different so there might not be any relation st all. Idk?
Bwings, that looks great! You beat me to it. I’m stuck on finishing the firmware but I should have done today or tomorrow. Was the pill hard to pound out on your sample? What is the chip marked A6SZ?
Thanks for all the likes and comments.
Yeah, the pill is press fit and hard to pound, was tried to heat before, I used a 16mm brass tube and press from battery side. The tiny A6SZ is AO3416 Sot23 Mosfet.
Thanks for all the likes and comments.
Yeah, the pill is press fit and hard to pound, was tried to heat before, I used a 16mm brass tube and press from battery side. The tiny A6SZ is AO3416 Sot23 Mosfet.
Little late, but yes - Wow!! Impressive mod there bwings. Don't think my 60 yr old eyes and hands can do that level work, least not in a timely manner...
Forgot what I did to loosen the pill in my M3 mod (yes 60 yr brain on many beers), but recall it being a little stuck. Worked on a bunch of similar press fit pills though, bout always can find a way though.
Ohh - sure looks the same as the OTR M3 - same driver setup and brass pill piece, switch board, etc.
You people just made me order one
Also 18650 version and small 10180 keychain…
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
This is one of the reasons I opted for it (S1R Baton), the chance to access directly to Moonlight and that being a low moonlight level, maybe not the lowest, but low enough for what I need it.
If it wasn’t that, my 1st option would be the OTR (half the price) or this Jaxmnve (1/4 of the price)
Djozz loved it and made some nice things in the i3
This was also a thread on it last year!
I guess you have a point on that! It would allow to see further, and it is much more compact than other zoomie lights (AAs or 18650s). The Jaxmnve with zoom, maybe it was a winner for such a compact light!
Fasttech still sells the i3 (along with many other OTR lights, even some that seem oooold school), but GB and OTR on AliExpress don’t have them. Maybe it was discontinued.
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
I just sold a modded m3. I have two of these clones with charging on the bench ready to mod. I’ll post them for sale here first in case anyone wants one. I’m not sure yet if I can save the charging option. I am going to fight tooth and nail for it though.
JAXMNVE M8
If intend to get one, you probably want to check out the short demo first.
Good thing is that there is no visible PWM from my cam.
SUBSCRIBE
1theDeals.com / Facebook / Instagram / YouTube / Reddit
I like mine!
On M8 it has strobe in modes? No double click or something?
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
Low (more like mid) > High > Strobe
Double click will activate auto ramping loop. Their ramping style is not really useful imo.
SUBSCRIBE
1theDeals.com / Facebook / Instagram / YouTube / Reddit
Hum, guess that’s going to be a tough mod
Let us know what you’ve done, when you’ve done it
Oh boy…this UI…
From the video, on the stepless dimming, it doesn’t appear to go down to low lumen levels, does it? How low does it go, if you have an estimation?
Thanks
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
Oh well…
If I hate it I will give it to someone who doesn’t care
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
Just an FYI, I noticed a recent code for On The Road U16 XP-L HD 6500 – 7000K at $19.99, with OTR cell.
I took apart the clone today. I ended up relying on an aluminum rod and a hammer two sizes larger than the one I started with.
It deformed the brass ring some and broke a couple solder joints, but the brass can be reformed to shape and after some extra solder on the broken connections the driver still works. I’m quite surprised though, I gave it some pretty good pounding.
My end goal does not include the original driver circuit, but I’m hanging on to the charging circuit. The charger used is labeled, HXN-MH. The charge port is remotely mounted directly to the pill with a rather heafty screw. I believe the rest of the charge circuit is contained on the back of the vertically mounted switchboard. After some digging through my parts bins the good news is that I believe I can mod it with a triple channel board running Narsil and retain the charging function. The bad news is, it is NOT going to be easy.
For anyone wants to open their’s up, the reflector is not screwed in like the m3 but be prepared for a fight to get the pill out of the head! I would recommend pounding using something solid that fits tightly in the battery tube with minimal wiggle. If you need to pound with a punch or screw driver try to avoid both the end with the switch and the side with the charge port. focus on the part of the pill on either side between the two as this is where the brass touches the aluminum of the pill. Pounding the other areas will result in deforming the brass ring and possibly loosening parts on the driver. Also, I would remove the charge port cover ahead of time. I ended up shearing off the tab that keeps the cover from completely coming off when charging. With the tab gone it will be more easily lost. I have a solution in mind though.
I would have posted picks but my camera/phone quit on me. So I’m out my lifeline till I can figure that out.
Oh yes, emitter swaps should be doable. Only trouble is that the mcpcb is glued to the pill. I scraped around the edges with an exacto knife and still had to twist pretty hard with my needle nose pliers. I’m not sure what emitter is going in this one but I am sure it’s going to be nice!
depends who you ask
https://flashlionreviews.blogspot.com/2016/12/on-road-m3-1×16340cr123a-...
Moonlight mode:3Lm
Low mode: 148Lm
Mid mode: 292Lm
Hiigh mode: 595Lm
Turbo mode: 870Lm
http://lightsngear.com/on-the-road-m3-xm-l2-u2-flashlight/
Ultra-low; 10 lumens
Low; 150 lumens
Medium; 300 lumens
High; 600 lumens
Turbo; 920 lumens
there is a review here, but it actually does not say what the lumen levels are, but it has other info and photos you may enjoy
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47124
"WTB Eye10 TiC":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64366
Thanks jon_slider for the information on the On The Road M3
Despite the different “appreciations”/measurements, it is a really great light!
However, I was asking about the levels of the Jaxmnve M3 (aka, “the clone”
) as from freeme ‘s video about the UI it is possible to see that it goes to low levels, but doesn’t seem to go to moonlight levels.
I may be wrong, but it doesn’t seem to go that down! I already have one on the way, so it won’t weight on the decision, it is just to be aware what I (or other buyers) can wait !!
Thanks again
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
Yes, you are correct. It doesn’t go as low as many would like. The lowest level is maybe 40lm? That is a very crude guess only from memory and not by direct comparison. But it’s definaltely not a moon mode and more like a moderate low mode.
Hahaha that ramp is funny, not a wide range but funny yeah.
It seems to go a little lower this way.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Thanks for the answer LightRider!! Well…that is not what I expected when I saw stepless dimming, but ok, we’ll survive this UI
It will always be a nice BUDGET light as long as it works well in the modes it has, once that modding it is not an easy option, as you and TomE said!
Eheheh, at least it is funny
Maybe – I’m just saying – maybe the manufacturers would be open to use one of the mentioned firmwares, Narsil, NarsilM, others, if we “advise” them to do that!
Do you think this was a good option, or was it desirable? If these firmwares are open source, it would be interesting to get to these manufacturers and tell them about it.
I don’t have much experience contacting manufacturers. Sofirn and Amutorch are just 2 of them to whom I provided some feedback on the flashlights I bought (through AliExpress).
- Sofirn – represented on BLF by Tracy Wan – incorporated some feedbacks given here about their AA lights (were from H to ML, now are L to H, and strobes were “dismissed”).
- Amutorch contact, despite didn’t make the changes (yet?) took the given suggestions to their responsibles.
This Jaxmnve manufacturer already uses a “ramping UI” (+ clicks). Maybe they are open to make some changes on their drivers and UIs and make a more “nice” light.
I’m just saying! Sorry if I completely ignore how things can happen on this manufacturing world, as I have no experience on that
As a user, I would just like to have the best flashlights possible, keeping the budget side on it!
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
I wonder how would they react to the legal burden of GPL…
BLF firmware, whilst wonderful, is not the be-all and end-all.
Neither are simple FET drivers, necessarily.
And is predicated on relatively expensive MCUs.
And is an acquired taste, maybe more than many will ever want, or use fully.
Plenty of good stuff being done commercially with much more humble stuff, E.g. I have a huge 4D cell “10W Cree LED” torch that cost £12 (reduced) from Lidl/Aldi last year, with simple high, low, then for more control a great ramping UI, up and down, flicker at each limit, hidden strobe, perfect.
All good, genuine Cree XML LED in good neutral white tint, driven well, good reflector, the metalwork alone weighs over 700g, when loaded with included x4 Ds (a few quid themselves), 1.3 kilos. Fit, finish, o-rings, anodisation quality, all great.
Bought it having a project for the chassis in mind, but so good I never bothered. Perfect for walking the dog, or investigating “bumps in the night”.
it’s very good but price is……..
The gioi den chum trang tri noi that chat luong cao, gia thanh re tai Ha Noi
The driver is pretty simple. However it looks like there are some things hurting the efficiency. Idk?
The driver uses two large limiting resistors that have a total resistance of 1.32 Ω.
It is interesting that the driver uses the same fet for reverse polarity protecton and for the output mosfet. So the current travels through an fet twice before it reaches the led. I believe this is less efficient than using a diode for the MCU only like the BLF drivers do?
However the reverse polarity protects both the driver and her charging circuit. So after the rpp mosfet the batt- is isolated from the rest of the driver. The only other part connected to the host is the switch.
All of the charging circuit is contained on the vertical switch pcb apart from the rpp fet. I am unsure if the charging uv has rpp or not. I’m assuming not.
The charger has a program resistor of 1.5k Ω. This should give a charge current of .66 amps. This is assuming that the charging ic closely resembles the MCP73831/2 as I couldn’t find a data sheet for the HXN-MH. Someone somewhere mentioned a connection but I’m not sure. The pin layout seems a little different so there might not be any relation st all. Idk?
Nice Info! Thanks!!
I’ve this clone m3 modded with rechargeable Narsil. The charging circuits is separate from driver.
edit: sorry, still figuring out how to posting pics.
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sorry for my poor English
bwings that looks awesome, great job on this mod
New review: Wuben TO40R XPL2 18650
[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2
Just WOW bwings !!!! Work of art right there
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Bwings, that looks great! You beat me to it.
I’m stuck on finishing the firmware but I should have done today or tomorrow. Was the pill hard to pound out on your sample? What is the chip marked A6SZ?
Thanks for all the likes and comments.
Yeah, the pill is press fit and hard to pound, was tried to heat before, I used a 16mm brass tube and press from battery side. The tiny A6SZ is AO3416 Sot23 Mosfet.
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Sorry for my poor English
Is that for reverse polarity Protection?
Little late, but yes - Wow!! Impressive mod there bwings. Don't think my 60 yr old eyes and hands can do that level work, least not in a timely manner...
Forgot what I did to loosen the pill in my M3 mod (yes 60 yr brain on many beers), but recall it being a little stuck. Worked on a bunch of similar press fit pills though, bout always can find a way though.
Ohh - sure looks the same as the OTR M3 - same driver setup and brass pill piece, switch board, etc.
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