Unfortunately, triples are too floody for me, so the E2L is off the menu.
Any chance of getting this LED into an M2?
That would probably be a unique light in the marketplace, because 5000K and 90 CRI in a cost-effective AA light are very hard to find. Zanflare might be thinking about one, but theyâve gone quiet lately, and the only other option I can think of would be a much more expensive Eagletac.
maukka, do you have any measurements for the new LG leds in the Jaxman E2L? still deciding whether to get the warm white nichias or the neutral LGs in the Jaxman e2l but i wouldnât decide until the numbers are out from maukka :nerd_face: .
Almost sure they are far away from modern cree and nichias.
This is typical feature of LG and Samsung leds - they are very competitive at 350mA test current, but with current raise they look not so good. I suppose the reason is internal thermal resistance.
Thermal resistances:
LG H35F0: 2.5°C/W
Cree XP-L: 2.2°C/W
Cree XP-L2: 2.2°C/W
Cree XP-G3: 3°C/W
Nichia 219C: 4.2°C/W
Cree XM-L2: 2.5°C/W (but with much bigger footprint)
So they are all very similar in that regard. The XP-L2 tolerates a much higher maximum current though because of the flipchip design.
Brightness @ 3A (LG doesnât state the temperature, I assume 25°C):
LG H35F0 4000K: 882lm
Cree XP-L2 U6 4000K: 1000lm
Nichia 219C D240 4000K: 800lm
Cree XP-G3 R3 4000K: 910lm
So the XP-L2 is indeed noticeably more efficient (13% more lumens, basically two Cree Bins). Even the XP-G3 is brighter.
The LG LED still has some benefits though:
- cheaper and easier to get compared to the XP-L2 90CRI (Mouser is very expensive for low quantities)
larger Die size compared to Nichia 219C and XP-G3 => more useful Beam in some lights
@Maukka:
A guy I know has experimented with multiple Osslon LEDs and he thinks that the colortemperature makes a difference. His theory is that 4000K and above are greenish, but 3500K and below are not.
All my 3000K 90CRI Oslons from second and third generation have an underwhelming tint, ok but slightly at the green side of yellow. As opposed to Nichiaâs that are at the rosy side of yellow.
I do have a girst gen. Square 3500K 80 CRI that has a great tint, also the first gen. SSL80 4000K 96 CRI is great.
I did the performance test on the LG led of the OP and will do a full post hopefully later this week.
A short summary on the current/output/voltage:
*the led died at 13A, which is exceptional for a led with bond wires, it was not even the bond wires that failed
*the maximum is at 8A (1733lm), pretty good for a 90 CRI led. The voltage is then 4.00V, so this led is pretty ideal for a direct drive single 18650 light.
*my ideal drive current would be 5A, at which current the led is at 3.54V and 80% of the maximum output (1400lm).
I looked at the tint for a brief moment at 50mA holding a small smooth reflector in front of the led, but I can not tell much about that yet, just that the hotspot seems to produce a âspiegeleiâ, which is pretty worrying for this led but it could be very well how I positioned the reflector in my hand.
Is it only me that notice the model name is LEMWE33390SU5000 on the picture of the led reel package and not LEMWE33390HU5000 as the specifications picture show?
I did notice that, could be a newer (better) bin that was not there at the time the table was made. I would have to dig in the LG coding to find out what it is.