Yep. Stainless will eat the end mills fast if you don’t keep it cool. Seen a 1” rougher go round a corner on a part and in a matter of a couple inches of feed start glowing red and disintegrate before i could stop the machine (CNC). It was on a proven part that had run several successfully already so I knew my speed/feeds were good.
The trick many times with stainless is once you start a cut don’t stop. Stainless will work harden if you allow it to cool for even seconds leaving something almost like a case hardened effect on the remaining material around the cut.
Absolutely. The part I mentioned had to be discarded because of this even though the final dimensions were not impinged on when the tool failed. It became too hard.
new addition to the shed ,I got my fathers power hacksaw, as he unfortunately cant use it any more.
fairly slow about 20 mins to cut this 50mm square. this piece will hold the two reflectors / leds
Its good to see you converted with the DRO. A whole new world opens up with it.
Your block looks rather hollow from what one can see from the picture in the vice.
I tried lot of different end mills from Banggood on aluminium with my CNC , i have yet to find some that are not crap, wih a european made end mill the cutting load is almost non existant and surface finish excellent the banggood ones are hard on the machine and make burrs everywhere and it’s very easy to brake them since they hardly cut, they are good on wood though for the price, better than the typical router bits with straight cutting edges.
well assembly time there is a bit going on in the battery compartment
with charging board electronic and isolation switches and the narsil driver.
wires are soldered directly to batterys…
got some elastic 25mm wide from spotlight measured up swmbo’s head
and here we go
will try to get out tonight for a beam shot
it runs just on 4a to the 2 x xpg2 leds so should be good for 1 and 1/2 hours on high
from the 2 x 3400mah bats