The 20mm SinkPAD for XM-L works perfectly for the XHP-50, same footprint. There are large diameter Maxtoch MCPCB’s in DTP copper that are made for the XM-L footprint as well, one of those may work best by covering the entire emitter shelf in that light. Of course, 20mm Noctigon’s for XM also work.
That “press fit” emitter shelf may not have had a fit side to side, but the aluminum shelf was still sitting on the aluminum body so heat transfer was still taking place even if not optimal. There are simple fixes for that, all P60 modders know how to take care of that problem really quickly.
that is the problem here
The shelf sits on the driver, which is not a MCPCB
I checked the current with 2.45A, but you are right its a 6V board, not a 12V,
so the claimed lumens cant be reached even with a J4 bin and 12% losses they are
they not even driving the LED to its rated current
In your video, you show the emitter shelf as a cup, with the sides being well below the shelf the emitter sits on. You also show bare aluminum inside the battery tube which holds this cup, so the emitter shelf/heat sink is in fact in contact with the bare metal of the battery tube thus heat sinking the emitter through contact. No? Did I see your video wrong?
Lexel, I dont get it, you talk about press fit and using a tool and force to get it out but then it rattles and drops out…huh?
Does this mean that BEFORE yu used the tool and applied force it was firmly in, thus not floating, thus giving a good heatpath to the housing? And if it was floating why the need of using the tool and force?
puzzling, for the topic title make it seem like there is no heat path and just a floating thingy, but why why the tool and force and speaking of “hammered in there with a lotof force, hard to pull it out”?
Fairly easy to understand the pill is press/friction fit inside the housing it has no way of attaching to the body. It does not screw in place or is not glued down. It is held in place by the force of the reflector and bezel!
Yes there is a lip/shelf around the pill that may touch the light in some areas. But if it fits in so easy and is so easy to pull out how good is it connecting to the body? How much contact area do you have? Like it can rattle around in the light and not make proper contact. Even with that lip its still a fairly small area of contact to the body when it is actually making proper contact? Could be a gap of a hundred of a mm around the pill to the body?
I have similiar built lights with the same design they dont have much of a heat path.
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This light is a fairly under driven headlamp compared to the XHP50 that is in the Sofirn which is meant to be running at 30w
Ah! I see, the video didn’t show the driver installed so it was unclear the relationship.
Yes, I too wondered about the talk of the heavily indented wood as to how difficult it was to pull the emitter shelf/heat sink. Misleading a bit there, placing the wood on top of this light and explaining it.
Of course it would be easy to foil wrap it and reinstall, but the factory should have a proper fitment not requiring intervention. I’ll ask Tracy about it, see what she says…
The inside of the battery-tube (where the shelf-cup sits) might be slightly cone-shaped, and ideally the shelf-cup too. In this case there could be good thermal contact when pressed in by the reflector (and the shelf-cup would be lose and rattle if not pressed in). Perhaps SOFIRN uses this construction. Can the shelf be moved sideways when pressed down by hand?
Is it just me? Why do they make a nice metal pad on the driver where the screw holds it down and then NOT use a panhead screw? Wouldn’t a brass pan head make much more contact and carry better ground current? Most lights are this way, how do the engineers miss that important little detail?
You are right with the screws, but the opposite side the whole driver rests with a nice gold plated surface on the blank body
I replaced the driver screws with flat heads from a Laptop
I have stood accused of having beefed up numbers on my builds for a long time. The truth of the matter is that I was willing to spend the time on each and every light to reduce resistance everywhere I could find it, and by going to such great pains to eliminate all waste my lights produced higher outputs than most were accustomed to seeing. There are now a lot more people also doing similar and my numbers are not always higher, those that used to accuse me are silent.
Attention to detail accounts for a lot in most things, I believe that when we see a company paying close attention to every detail, we see a better product and are proud to own it. Perhaps Sofirn will be one of those companies, they are new and are trying, so if they listen to the people like on this forum, they can make slight adjustments and have a far better product for it.
Thank you for the pics and efforts taken on this light to show us what it does well, and where it falls short. Appreciate it.
I would say it is a manufacturing error. I don’t have this particular light, but I have the SF11 (4 AA), that is similarly constructed. Mine is tightly pressed in.
