Definitely, and thanks for linking my personal YouTube channel 
Success!
I used a tough little knife, Buck Strider Mini, and worked around til the bezel was loose enough to remove. Filed down a 16mm Noctigon til it fit in place of the stock aluminum mcpcb, then used a 365nm UV light to locate a preferred XM-L2 tint in my bins… as it so turned out I removed one of the 4 XM-L2 U2’s that came in my Nitecore TM16 (it has XHP-35’s now)
Thinned the Noctigon a bit to match the stock thickness, leaving it a hair tall…. bezel and TIR went back in nicely and it now has a near perfect neutral tint, probably a 1D to make a guess at it (Nitecore doesn’t specify tint bin)
My mom’s pearl white Buick LaCrosse looks splendid in the light from this S1A now so I’m happy with it.
No scratches, no gap, looks stock but has the nicer tint. A win for sure. Thanks for clearing up the style of bezel for me, appreciate it. 
Beam before modification… the plant light is a Cree COB rated at 93CRI for comparison sakes…
The solid copper S1A in Rose Gold PVA…after the mod…
And the beam after the mod, much nicer color! The picture on the wall is a 16x20 canvas of my son when he was little.
The ceiling tiles, for white balance perception, are white styrofoam. 
I have an Astrolux SC that really like but was not using it because is to heavy for my taste, so modded with a xhp-70.2 NW from KD, a MTN Fet driver and two windyfire 14500 IMR.
Cut the threads from the tailcap and soldered two pieces of copper plumbing tube. Inner/outer diamenter and lenth are perfect fit, just plug and solder.
8.7A startup and 3.4A at 30sec nearly burning hot.
Soldering: phone camera show pink but it was really red.
Final result: love the burned look.
That is one extreme mod A380. I also like the real rustic look of it. Nice work. 
Looks like a really nice piece of junk.
Nobody will ever think to steal it.
Cool job! :+1:
Nice job A380.
And once you start using it parts will become shiny again from wear, adding to the character!
Thanks!
Djozz, it’s more heavy t’han before, so don’t think I’m going to use much more.
Dale, can you please tell the diameter of the LED plate? Or, if you can’t say that, can you tell me what diameter the flashlight take (14mm or 16 mm)?
Thank you in advance
I think it was a 14mm MCPCB, I’ll measure it here directly and let you know. Took a good bit of filing on a 16mm Noctigon. Had to thin the Noctigon down some too.
Measured, yes it’s 14mm.
Thank you Dale I thought it would be 14mm too, but couldn’t be sure! These are only measurements for a future mod
Thanks :+1:
EDIT: Thanks for the confirmation Dale
Manker U11 18650
NarsilM V1.0 3C1S
L6 Switch PCB
Blue LED
Moon
10K Very nice
Nice work Steel! Sweet pics too, thanks for sharing!
At least it has a chunk of heat sink that’s one piece, so maybe it did need a little tightening up, fairly easily corrected it looks like and now it’s a very sweet light, good job all around!
What firmware did you make this change in?
Steel that is beautiful. And I sold my U11 just 3 hours ago…
Calling all cars! Or tinkerers. I have a gutted novatac Wichita that I want to become a Flashlight again. It needs the driver, led, reflector and lens. Wondering who has the time they can undertake this project for me in the USA. My screen name at aol is my address if you want pics of the light from me.
The tail switch is intact and I don’t expect you to work for free. I prefer to put a nw led. I would love to have a photo red in it. If you can put a triple in there with a secondary red led running a ramping driver, I’d be ecstatic!!! You can skip the alligator grips, Swarovski button, and tri-color gold lanyard. Pm me for suggestions
Forgive me pilotdog if I hijacked your thread
“What will you mod for me today” sounds close enough to the thread topic to me, I reckon your post suits here well
I only get to Amsterdam every 20 years otherwise I would’ve given you a shot at this
That was in Anduril. I haven’t tried to apply the change to other FSM UIs, but it would probably be pretty trivial for most of them.
Fairly simple mod today.
Modded a Sipik 98. Replaced the driver with a DrJones H17F. Replaced emitter with a dedomed SST40 on copper Noctigon.
I don’t have any Toluene so dedomed the emitter by slicing it with an x-acto knife while the LED was just below reflow temperature. The driver space in the pill fit a 20mm driver. Fortunately I had a brass 17mm—>20mm driver adaptor ring from Mountain Electronics on hand.
The light has a hollow pill. I didn’t build a heatsink to put under the pill, but I was very generous in applying Arctic Silver 5 to the edges. of the star.
Light works perfectly. It’s bulkier than my other zoomies, but also much brighter and throwier.
I’m undecided if I want to further mod this light. Additional mods I’m considering:
- Shorten the light - easiest way is to reduce the length of the pill, back of the head, or the heat sink fins. There’s a lot of empty space in the pill that could be salvaged. Might be able to reduce the length of the light 1 cm.
- mod tailcap to make it illuminated.
- apply sideswitch mod like I did with the smaller Aleto N8 a few years ago. The sideswitch mod is fairly difficult, but applying it would allow me to take another cm off the length of the light and switch the UI to the D4 UI.
I waved my magic Grizzly at a bar of aluminum and turned it’s heart into gold. Er, well, copper anyway.
The copper pill is 35mm diameter and 35mm deep, with the top 10mm smooth and mated to the aluminum battery tube, the lower 25mm is threaded at 0.75mm thread pitch and has a driver bay cut in. This will be DBC-06.