It should work just the same, if the LEDs are still 2S, i.e. 2 in series. However if there are more than two, it will be using a boost driver, so the Narsil FET driver would not be compatible.
Watch this space.
At first glance it looked to me like the original 2S arrangement, if so there ought not to be a problem.
But looking a bit more closely, and enhancing the images, now I’m not so sure. It could actually be a 6S 3P, using a boost driver. Which would be very interesting, but not compatible with a FET driver. ENEDED - #1572 by Tom_Tom
Can someone please help me?
The last few days I have read something about the MF01 with Narsil Driver. Someone has canged driver wires from AWG 20 to 22 too. The gain in lumens was 12000 to 16000.
And I think Djozz has answered with the Amp per Emitter.
Please give me a Link to it, I do not find it.
Lexel was looking at it. It seems the new MCPCB needs some mods. Don’t ask me to explain, as I don’t quite understand his pictures. Maybe these are new wires added.
That might have been Tom E. No, he did a TA driver swap on the MT03. I think the Narsil driver swap in the MF01 was on the German flashlight site.
I can’t find it. Maybe someone else knows?
I get BG to explain on this new issue. Meanwhile, please lodge a former claim on https://www.banggood.com/Contact-Us_hi111
[quote=CM2010 I ordered it Oct 14 and got it on the 20th.[/quote]
Thank you!
Interesting. I might get the new version as well depending on measurements… Thanks for the info Freeme!
freeme, yes, that looks correct. It is indeed 6S 3P. Meaning a very different boost driver that powers 6 LEDs in series, i.e. boosts the voltage from the 2S batteries sufficient to power 6 LEDs in series.
This could potentially mean maintaining full output brightness even when the cells are low in voltage, as well as reducing losses in the LED wires (only 1/3 of the current is needed) etc.
I am looking forward to evaluating mine next week.
Thanks.
That was just a few days ago. :person_facepalming: My memory fails me sometimes.
PS, it wasn’t 12k to 16k lumen, though. It was with nichia from 8k to 11k lumen.
the 3 sections are show each a different approach how to wire new one for TA driver
to get it simple
the 3 sections are show each a different approach how to wire new one for TA driver
to get it simple
cut traces at 6 spots
remove solder mask at 12 spots for new wiring
Modes are not the same my measurements are 24,780,1300,2800,11300 lumens.
I replaced the factory thermal grease with another, it was very small, and contact with the body of the lantern was partial. Now when the turbo mode is on, the brightness does not fall more than 1 minute, and the heat from the flashlight is evenly distributed over the body.
2800 lumens… Interesting change.
The issue with mine and the 6 leds not coming in seems to be when it’s been sitting on my window cill and it’s colder there. If i take it off there then all the leds light up fine.
Could be a cold solder spot
Maybe heating the driver to melt all the solder again can help
You have the new batch with one set of wires to the led board I believe? And yet you have one cluster of six emitters not working the way you have described? Perhaps thermal expansion results in contact? What happens if you have all the 18 emitters emitting light in higher modes, and then go back to low output; are all 18 emitters still emitting, or does it go back to 12 emitters?
Thanks for the code freeme, bought the Nichia
Whew that’s a lot of trace cutting and wiring.