Interesting. I might get the new version as well depending on measurements… Thanks for the info Freeme!
freeme, yes, that looks correct. It is indeed 6S 3P. Meaning a very different boost driver that powers 6 LEDs in series, i.e. boosts the voltage from the 2S batteries sufficient to power 6 LEDs in series.
This could potentially mean maintaining full output brightness even when the cells are low in voltage, as well as reducing losses in the LED wires (only 1/3 of the current is needed) etc.
I am looking forward to evaluating mine next week.
Thanks.
That was just a few days ago. :person_facepalming: My memory fails me sometimes.
PS, it wasn’t 12k to 16k lumen, though. It was with nichia from 8k to 11k lumen.
the 3 sections are show each a different approach how to wire new one for TA driver
to get it simple
the 3 sections are show each a different approach how to wire new one for TA driver
to get it simple
cut traces at 6 spots
remove solder mask at 12 spots for new wiring
Modes are not the same my measurements are 24,780,1300,2800,11300 lumens.
I replaced the factory thermal grease with another, it was very small, and contact with the body of the lantern was partial. Now when the turbo mode is on, the brightness does not fall more than 1 minute, and the heat from the flashlight is evenly distributed over the body.
2800 lumens… Interesting change.
The issue with mine and the 6 leds not coming in seems to be when it’s been sitting on my window cill and it’s colder there. If i take it off there then all the leds light up fine.
Could be a cold solder spot
Maybe heating the driver to melt all the solder again can help
You have the new batch with one set of wires to the led board I believe? And yet you have one cluster of six emitters not working the way you have described? Perhaps thermal expansion results in contact? What happens if you have all the 18 emitters emitting light in higher modes, and then go back to low output; are all 18 emitters still emitting, or does it go back to 12 emitters?
Thanks for the code freeme, bought the Nichia
Whew that’s a lot of trace cutting and wiring.
They all come on if i cycle back through the modes but they will flicker for a short while.
The old revision and also the new can have a fail of 6LEDs
Just on the new one if the boost driver shorts out tbe light is copletly dead, while the old one at least has 2 remaining groups working
I just tried a set of button top 30q’s in it and got 11680 lumens with 10750@30s. got 3000 in high mode.
Hhmm, this doesn't sound good. I've seen properly set temp regulation work well w/NarsilM in tests I did, actually steps down too much, where it seems the temp sensor in the MCU is not cooling off quick enough. Not sure how Lexel set it up, but if you use the standard way in NarsilM to set the temperature by measuring it and setting it yourself, it's worked fine for me.
A preset temp would require it to be calibrated, and this is where it gets tricky, because it's very much flashlight/battery dependent.
So if a second batch fail on 6 LEDs its because of a bad reflown emitter on that cluster?
Or can the circuit copper in the Mcpcb be bad so less current goes through it? (Or no current if a cluster is complete dark)
Have anyone had a problem with the circuit copper in the Mcpcb on high Amps flashlight like I read that some springs melt because to high Amps?
On the second batch if a cluster of 6 LEDs gets completely dark the rest of the emitters share that current and get 150% instead of 100% of the normal current?
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Which version do you have? The new 2 wire or the older 6 wire?