How about a Orange Dry with a brown center :) Tutorial as well!!!

Ok ...I broiled the sipik sk 58 and the sk 68 since they came apart pretty easily ..everything besides the tailcap and the bezel on the sk68 that had the aspheric lens glued in ..

45 minutes on broil in the toaster oven and guess what ?? nothing not even slight color change ..when I went in and checked them the last time the timmer had run out and the parts were just hot .. ot screaming hot ...just hot .

I couldn't find my pizzia stone so i just transfered the small metal tray to the main oven and popped it onto broil ....centered the parts directly under the coils and broiled them with the door closed .

unwilling to leave them in the main oven too long i cleaned a few dishes and set a chair in front of the oven and peeked once at them shining a flashlight in at them ..I thought to myself alright i'll set an alarm for like 10 minutes and then check them .....Bang I could find the timer to set it ....they were done ~!! huh ??? OMG the sipik 58 is much brighter orange and the sipik sk68 is a richer more true orange .. it happened ...real fast ..with the real oven i'd guess 12 minutes with the door shut and them up high close to the element . faster than making brownies ..don't leave the room unless you have a seriously massive body on your light .Hitting the other sipik with a steak knife was fun and progressive ..this one was way out of control ...ding ...done .

Take a flashlight you don't care about and cook it .

Gives new meaning to Bakelite

What I wouldn't mind seeing (or, more to the point, doing) is some diamondkote, cerakote or DuraCoat.

The color choices for DuraCoat are crazy and the kits to do it are only $29.95 and can do 2-4 firearms (or at least 6 flashlights, I'd imagine). It even comes in ready to spray cans for no mixing or special equipment. It cures at low temp of 110 degrees for an hour or air dry for 24 hrs. You wouldn't even have to disassemble the light or remove electronic components to heat cure it in an oven.

Cerakote is the most durable, I believe, but requires professional installation. Technically the hobbiest could do it if properly equipped but it requires a little more to do than a DuraCoat. There are around 50 color choices as well.

Diamondkote colors and finishes...

I used Duracoat to refinish a pistol with bad bluing once. I got really good results with it, but the Duracoat was a pain to work with. Unless you get the spray can, you will need an airbrush to apply the finish, and the cleanup is going to be difficult. I got a cheap airbrush at Harbor Freight on sale so I considered that to be a disposable instead of using my Paasche. Plus, the Duracoat components have a short shelf life. I bought the smallest quantity I could get and used may 1/3 of it refinishing my pistol, and when I went back to use it on another project later, it had gummed up badly and was unusable.

If I do it I’ll do the shake and spray kit and have several lights ready to be done at the same time. Once you mix the hardener with it you have to use it or lose it. It’s a resin that cures, unlike regular paint based coatings.

what happen if a non black colour is baked? what colour is the result?

Mr.BrightLights You are an inspiration. Thank you so much for sharing this. I already took a different approach, as I normally do.
heat1
Here's how I did it.
heat2
My little butane torch! This light is very thin in the areas I heated. I wouldn't try a heavy light, but this one worked ok for experimenting. It took about 15 minutes. Once I got one spot turning color, it went fast.
Wish I had an oxy-acetyene torch!
Thanks for giving us one more toy to play with.Laughing

Now that I like! I can see doing the light in various colors with the torch to get a cool camo effect going.

I think someone with an oxy-acetylene could do it camo style, with a bucket of water to quench. When the metal gets hot enough, discoloration starts to spread rapidly, but with a really hot torch, you could hit a spot and quench, hit a spot and quench. I'd love to see the possibilities! Quenching would stop the spread of the discoloration, but I don't know the adverse affects of the aluminum. Will it get brittle with all of this?

Where's the metallurgist?

This is a cheap Tmart 501. I suspected that these cheap 501s were painted. Guess not.

Ok, I figured I would go for broke. It's a $4 light. I heated the head and tail cap. When I did the tail cap I heated right on the center post where the lanyard fit. It turned a bright color fast, then the rest of the cap started to turn and I took the heat off. It kept the color a little darker than the body.

Then I did the head and I started heating up on the bezel and when that turned I heated all round the bezel and stopped and sat it in the outdoors where the cool wind was blowing. It also stayed a darker color.

heat3

So..... Someone with an oxy-acetylene torch and a bucket of water needs to go sacrifice one of their lights.Laughing

Gives a new meaning to the word torch.Tongue Out

My only grief it is that it turns orange. Why it didn't go in gun grey instead. :/ Would have loved that and "sacrificed" a few 504B hosts to do it.

Who is going to try what happens baking a blue or red anod? maybe other colors!

I am giving a try on the oven with a 502D I already de-anodized the head, lets see the result...

Probably different shades of orange. I suspect it's a chemical thing when anodization overheats and produces some side effect in the orange specter. However no1 knows how it would affect the anodization after cooked properly. Will it be less durable? I'm tempted to try a fake solarforce L2 which is shiny and i suspect it being painted rather than anodized. If it is painted it's really well made as it does not damage easily, at least equally good to the classic type 2 anodizing.

Will probably not try as i hate orange color with passion. (Why must it be orange anyway?!? Any other color would be nicer to me even yellow... blah!)

i just did my L2 host and it turned out dark orange/copper, i used a torch so i can fade mine and its orange/copper on both ends and medium dark in the middle :) very awesome looking only if i had a good camera :(

it isn't orange

yeah, a little darker tailcap, next time I will screw the body together, and the color changing will be equal. Very likeable color.

I have my Super-Bright 7-2 in the toaster oven right now and it's getting a nice deep brown sheen!

Just tried my kd c8, bezel went easy but the body won't budge even a little?

I've left it under the grill for ages, and tried a a small butane torch on it for quite some time....any ideas?

Maybe the body is HA3. Only type II ano is supposed to change color when heated.

that's the way mine went and i though i screwed up, but i kept my torch in the same spot till u see it turning orange took about 2-4min

like he said it might be HA3 ?