What did you mod today?

Finally got around to swapping out the cool white emitter in my Nitecore TIP with a 5000K 219C.

I know I could have just bought a TIP CRI, but where’s the fun in that? :slight_smile:

I also like the worn look it has after being on my keychain for months.

Not something I modded today, but due to some spontaneous indoor weather*, I got some beam shots of the Jax Z1 I built a while back.


(*) V tried to make fried chicken. It didn’t end well.

TK what is the led and driver in the Z1?

Reminds me of the DQG laser I did yesterday

Yesterday I have build my first XHP50 flashlight.
I used X7 host, 2x26350 cells (I had to rewrap one of them twice. First I recognized that stock violent wrap had burst. After I put both cells in host and looked at head from the driver side, I wonder there is no part that could isolate retaining ring (-) from big cell positive contact (which is usual size for 26650 cells), I think this caused by undersized driver, 24-25mm driver with proper ring could never meet such problems. So I had to add isolation ring made for 18650 cell on top and rewrap one cell one more time). I had no 2-cell compatible fet or linear driver so there is just 20mm contact plate (true direct drive).

I didt want to have hotspot hole so I replaced stock reflector with Ledlink LL01CR-ZE20L02 optics. Had to add extra 1mm copper shim (made from KD pcb) under main pcb.
I didnt expected such output from cheap single led. I dont have light meter box but it has near same output that triple xp-l X6 have. I like beam very much. Not so tight, not so wide. And this bubbles on optics top are making any multi-die led beam better - no hotspot hole, no extra rings or bezel caused artefacts, no tint shift - any reflector sucks with XHPs in comparations with optics.
I wonder why there is no compact and cheap XHP50 flashlight on market (equipped with optics). Since bigger capacity 26350 and 18350 are available, there is no need in expensive boost driver.

I’ve swapped LED to XP-L HI V3 3C in BLF-A6. Very noticeable throw increase :slight_smile: Measured almost 6A (with fresh 30Q) on tailcap without any other modifications.

mayerHK, please refrain from swearing.

BLF is supposed to be a family-friendly forum.

Thanks!

I’ve rebuilt my S41 once again. This time I reflowed sw40-D200-L2-R9080 from virence on orginal MCPCB. Installed Convoy 2.8A driver with biscotti with 690ohm bleeder resistor for lighted tailcap. According to this review it should produce just a bit over 1000lm. But on max after 2 minutes it’s still not too hot to touch.

Not cool, mayerHK!

do you have a beam shot for it? I’m interested in doing the same to mine.

Today i tried removing anodization with the liquid drain cleaner method. Had some sodium hydroxide in powder form, but i wanted to start small, then move up in danger-level if the liquid didn’t work as desired.

Taped up the threads on a BLF A6 battery tube.
10 minutes in, the anodization started to bubble, and dissolve.
Rinsed it off, and gave it a wash. After some lube it was good to go.
Now i can easily see the difference between my two A6’es :smiley:

Pics: Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Emisar D4 Lighted Switch today.

Replaced the firmware in my Emisar D1 and applied heat conductive silicone pad for better temp stepdown reaction.
Tested results here

CRX,

That looks really sweet.

Did you just glue a metal disc onto the translucent switch cover or what?

Final results :nerd_face:

Quite an idea. Thank you! :+1:

Nice! If you bake the remaining anodising it will be fully custom.

Yeah, here’s a brief description.
Two green SMD LED’s powered directly from the driver with a feed & neutral and 22K resistor.
After a few failed attempts to use wire for the connections I ended up using copper tape over kapton instead.
I filed two cutouts either side of the switch for the wires to come up and soldered onto the copper tape.
These switch dimples are very delicate and will come off fairly easily.
Covered over with some diffusing foam stuff, put steel retainer back in and siliconed in place.

Tried today, crappy phone shot:

I Un-Protected my old Protected Trustfire 16340 cells. Still used a blue wrap though. Goal was to make them shorter for my M3 Clone and get the most out of them on DD.

Here is why…
Got the parts today to complete my Dead Clone M3. Bought the Clone to replace my Dead OTR M3… That didn’t work out well. Hated the Clone UI antway and the USB charger killed the light the first time I used it. It’s all better now.

MtnE Fet+1 15mm driver with ramping D4 v2 UI. Used an XM-L2 T6 4C on a 14mm sinkpad. I rewoked the charger circuit to use the LED pads and drilled and mounted the SW board to the pill. Green LEDs look nice under the white OTR SW button.

Driver wasn’t good out of the box, no double blink for batt connection and no Low regulated modes. Took too long to figure out but I finally swapped the 7135 chip and all is Good now.

Jumpered pads on the SW board to get both LED’s to light up at same time and a 15K ohm resistor.

Drilled and tapped the pill forM2X6mm screw with a small head. Pad where the SW board is screwed on is also the Ground to pill.

Testing the green LEDs. The black wire not needed when mouned, screw mount is the ground.

Driver soldered to brass ring and no spring. Filed flat.

14mm DTP SinkPad and XM-L2 T6 4C. Centering ring was trimmed and sanded shorter. That solder spike on the Neg isn’t there anymore.

ML is useable.


In the end it was a lot of work. Loved the M3 till it broke and it was my most used light. Missed it a lot. Clone was a flop and never seen use before it died but it was the Donor for most of the parts. Couldn’t have mounted the SW board as I did with out buying the Clone. The D4 ramping is too Cool and makes this light even better.
Love it now!!!